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hi guyz i came accross this (the link at the bottom) as i was browsing audiosavings and i found it prety good and im thinking of buying it..so could i have an experts apinion on if its any good...and if it is what capabilities do i have with the sub and the amp (i know it has a description on everything but because i dont know alot about car audio i would like some help) for exaple: can i wire it up to 1 ohm when it has dual 2ohm coils? and if i do is the sub gonna break cause of the more watts im feeding it? or how much sound deformation will the amp have towards the sound? in general im asking if it would be a good purchase or would it be money down the drain?

http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Custom-Car-Sub-Amp-Packages/QUANTUM-Q15D2SPL-15-3000w-CAR-SUB3500w-MONO-AMPLIFIER/Q15D2SPL---QCA3500D---XK4B1.aspx

Edited by mako22
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Never heard of the brand. Personally, I wouldn't. The equipment's specs aren't rated to CEA compliance and probably aren't accurate RMS ratings. But I'm no expert, don't have experience with this brand.

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

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lol 60 amps worth of fusing...so a 500rms amp for a "1500rms" woofer. yeah nice.

edit: by the way bboytaktix, CEA ratings dont mean anything anymore. companies can just BUY the logo and slap it on their products nowadays

Edited by Kranny
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lol 60 amps worth of fusing...so a 500rms amp for a "1500rms" woofer. yeah nice.

so it isnt any good? because from written speach i cant understand the tone of the words "yeah nice." is it ironic or not? i think for the money its quite good.

Edited by mako22
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lol 60 amps worth of fusing...so a 500rms amp for a "1500rms" woofer. yeah nice.

edit: by the way bboytaktix, CEA ratings dont mean anything anymore. companies can just BUY the logo and slap it on their products nowadays

No but I read up on them a short time ago. They've updated quite a but I believe. Basically they're trying to make level ground for RMS ratings for audio equipment, since the way you could rate the amp's RMS voltage varies depending on method. I know this from my engineering courses. Bottom line, you're still better off to go with a CEA rated amp, since true RMS will most likely be closer to real value. That's why I don't go with no-name equipment. Tried it once way back. The '5000watt' amp was finished in less than 3 days. Which reminds me I still have that POS in my basement lol.

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

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No but I read up on them a short time ago. They've updated quite a but I believe. Basically they're trying to make level ground for RMS ratings for audio equipment, since the way you could rate the amp's RMS voltage varies depending on method. I know this from my engineering courses. Bottom line, you're still better off to go with a CEA rated amp, since true RMS will most likely be closer to real value. That's why I don't go with no-name equipment. Tried it once way back. The '5000watt' amp was finished in less than 3 days. Which reminds me I still have that POS in my basement lol.

i dont think you understand. afaik, CEA's rules are from 2006, hence CEA-2006 etc. ask other guys on here about the ratings thing. like boon for example.

edit: dont get me wrong, alpine and kicker etc's cea ratings are pretty legit. but when you see some brand youve never seen before that has CEA ratings and its like 8" wide and says it outputs 3000rms, its bullshit. like i said, companies can BUY the logo.

so it isnt any good? because from written speach i cant understand the tone of the words "yeah nice." is it ironic or not? i think for the money its quite good.

no its not good. the amp is rated for 1500rms but the fusing (60 amps worth) shows you that the amp to output AT MOST 600rms. if it could output 1500rms, it would have at least 150 amps worth of fusing.

Edited by Kranny
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no its not good. the amp is rated for 1500rms but the fusing (60 amps worth) shows you that the amp to output AT MOST 600rms. if it could output 1500rms, it would have at least 150 amps worth of fusing.

so if i contect the sub to the amp at 1 ohm will it not give 1750wattsRMS as it discribes?

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so if i contect the sub to the amp at 1 ohm will it not give 1750wattsRMS as it discribes?

Lol no

02 Dodge Durango

1 Fi SP4 18" .v2
Sundown SCV3k @.5 Ohms
XS D3100 up front
Northstar SMS AGM 400 in the back
All XS Power 0ga OFC
240a Apex h/o alternator
Pioneer AVH-X2500BT HU
Dual 0ga runs from the alt to battery
Dual 0ga runs from battery to amp

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so if i contect the sub to the amp at 1 ohm will it not give 1750wattsRMS as it discribes?

As I stated twice, no. It will get like 500rms

Edit: don't waste your money on that shitty kit. Post up your budget for what you want to spend and we'll give you a lot of better options

Edited by Kranny
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