David78 Posted October 26, 2010 Report Share Posted October 26, 2010 Haha I checked them out already. They don't have it for my truck. 04 Tahoe. And I'm not trying to pay $54.00 for a custom kit either. Why dont you just get a strip and you do it yourself? a 24x60 peice cost $35 and some change. ...............................____ ...............__________|___\____ ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)____|____/_(O) 1978 F-150 Ranger Lariat 2 Sets of Sound-stream Components Sony Head-unit DDM Tuning 8000k's Euro Headlights (Projectors Soon) Green Led Wheel Wells Dark Red Tails Tint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David78 Posted October 26, 2010 Report Share Posted October 26, 2010 good shit. i knew nothin about them, and theyre tint is even protective coated. Yeah i like how it came out. Pretty easy to work with. ...............................____ ...............__________|___\____ ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)____|____/_(O) 1978 F-150 Ranger Lariat 2 Sets of Sound-stream Components Sony Head-unit DDM Tuning 8000k's Euro Headlights (Projectors Soon) Green Led Wheel Wells Dark Red Tails Tint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Mike Posted October 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 Why dont you just get a strip and you do it yourself? a 24x60 peice cost $35 and some change. I'll check it out thanks.. I tried one time with film tint and I got it almost perfect besides the edges... I couldn't get them to stay flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph3n1 Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 is it more expensive? because around here vht runs like 12-15 bucks a can i think Nope its 12$ a can. and if you use Tint spray you can get some pretty damn good looking results by. sanding down the lens with 320-400 grit sand paper, washing them off with water and drying them. After this is done spray one good coat thats a little too dark. wait about 2-3 hours for it to dry then wetsand with a soap/water solution with 2500grit then 3000 grit to the desired transparency. Next you get some good cutting compound (i used meguiars m105) and buff the entire light 2-3 times. Next Get liquid polishing compoind (i used M205) polish the light 2 times. Last step finish the light off with a good paint sealer (synthetic car wax i used Nu car finish). The end result looks Very shiny and it looks As it was done at a professional paint shop. and all those polishing steps dont really take long at all. The whole process excluding the waiting to dry time took me about an hour and a half. 2005 Ford Ranger Reg cab Build in Progress T3 Audio T2000 12 ARC SE4000 Stinger HPM 1/0 Wire DC power 270xp Batts: 1 Redtop up front and a Stinger SPP2250 in the back Hopes to be in and around a 150....weel see my youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/steph3n1 Team DBs (Driven By sound) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 I'll check it out thanks.. I tried one time with film tint and I got it almost perfect besides the edges... I couldn't get them to stay flat. Heat gun on low, or hair drier. You have to sometimes shrink the tint to make corners/curves bubble free. You also dont want a died vinyl tint, because it will fade and over time turn a purplish color (usually in 1 summer or less), then you have homo colored tail lights. LOL Also when working with tint, use Johnson's baby shampoo (the original tear free yellow colored stuff) mixed in distilled water. You wont need much shampoo at all, and could get away with a $2.00 travel size bottle from walmart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Mike Posted October 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 Nope its 12$ a can. and if you use Tint spray you can get some pretty damn good looking results by. sanding down the lens with 320-400 grit sand paper, washing them off with water and drying them. After this is done spray one good coat thats a little too dark. wait about 2-3 hours for it to dry then wetsand with a soap/water solution with 2500grit then 3000 grit to the desired transparency. Next you get some good cutting compound (i used meguiars m105) and buff the entire light 2-3 times. Next Get liquid polishing compoind (i used M205) polish the light 2 times. Last step finish the light off with a good paint sealer (synthetic car wax i used Nu car finish). The end result looks Very shiny and it looks As it was done at a professional paint shop. and all those polishing steps dont really take long at all. The whole process excluding the waiting to dry time took me about an hour and a half. I'm not trying to use any spray tint. Just trying to go with film tint for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted November 16, 2010 Report Share Posted November 16, 2010 The cracks are from improper prep and/or laying too much down at one time. The Rustoleum spray is amazing, and cheaper than the vinyl stuff. Use wax and grease remover, then apply LIGHT COATS, then clear it (ideally) and you will be happy you didn't buy the film stuff. Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Mike Posted November 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2010 The cracks are from improper prep and/or laying too much down at one time. The Rustoleum spray is amazing, and cheaper than the vinyl stuff. Use wax and grease remover, then apply LIGHT COATS, then clear it (ideally) and you will be happy you didn't buy the film stuff. Did you try this? If you did, did you sand them down first or just cleaned them off? because I sanded mine down 2000grit then cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted November 16, 2010 Report Share Posted November 16, 2010 Did what? The prepping or the cracked tint? I've been both places. My typical prep (Which I don't recommend because everyone I tell about it looks at me like I have three heads, but it's worked for me ) is to use a little glass cleaner on the surface, or to wash it with a little dish soap. Once it dries I put a stupid light (almost spotty) coat on, then just do light coat after light coat. I used Niteshades on my tails a few months ago but I'm not satisfied with how it looks now. I did my front lights in Rusto and they came out much better. The headlights are a little lighter because I didn't want to affect my night visibility. There's only the first coat on those. Everything else is the light coat and a medium coat (it was a little too cold to spray so I had to lay a little heavier to keep it from looking spotty.) I'll be clearing these and buffing them out if they survive the winter. Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmamtower Posted November 16, 2010 Report Share Posted November 16, 2010 my tint job with some vht. had it on there for a month or two, got bored of it and took it off to reveal this apparently you dont get the fact that the subaru was wrapped around a pole. and by the status of your comment, im guessing your mouth is too. Vehicle: 1997 Honda Civic EX Exterior: 55w 5k Headlights and 35w 3k JDM Fogs. Lowered. Sittin on steelies right now Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate P450.4 Batteries: Kinetik HC 800 Electrical: Big 3 in 1/0 Enclosure: n/a : ( Headunit: Clarion VZ409 Mids/Highs: Pheonix Gold Rsd6.5's in the Front Doors Subwoofers: n/a : ( Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 and 4g Future Upgrades: 20% tint all around, GC/Koni coilovers, body work (fml) lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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