THEKINGsBACK Posted November 19, 2010 Report Posted November 19, 2010 A decent difference u get ither 1500 @ 1 ohm or ur other option is.5 ohm but would try that. For best use of power get dual 4 Quote he wouldnt be the first to say they did a 167 with a system like that (one that clearly DOESNT), but i have to say, he didnt beat me anywhere, ive never competed against the guy. If he thinks his does a 167, mine would probably put him in a coma. :hairtrick:
ChrisGLE Posted November 29, 2010 Author Report Posted November 29, 2010 (edited) Alright guys I've gotten some information and here is what I'm thinking about getting:(Please let me know if you think I should change any of what I have) Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1243D (12" 4 Ohm) Peak: 1800 watts RMS: 300-600 watts Amp: Alpine MRP-M1000 ($220) mono subwoofer car amplifier 600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms) variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave) variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz) subsonic filter (15 Hz, 24 dB/octave) Class D amp with MOSFET power supply OR Hifonics BRZ1700 ($240) Brutus Series Monoblock Class D Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating (@ 14.4V): 4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 chan. 1 ohm: 1700 watts x 1 chan. MOSFET power supply Wired HFR-3 remote bass level control included LED power (green) and protect (red) indicators Variable Bass Boost (0 to +10 dB bass boost at 45 Hz) Mono channel operation AMP Kit: The InstallBay AK01 0 Gauge Dual Amplifier Installation Kit ( I know its for two amps, but it's a good price) Battery: Alright after looking at my battery which is a Autocraft Gold Battery 24F-6, I found that it has 700 CCA, 875 Cranking Amps, and 130 Reserve Capacity. This is pretty much equivalent to the Optima Yellowtop D34. Do you think this will be an ok battery? Please let me know what you think. Edited November 29, 2010 by ChrisGLE Quote Check out my first ever aftermarket purchase!
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