class A/B or class D

[JJ.]

Guy's I will be changing my amps soon to power my DC lvl 4 15"s and am looking at two options

The first is class D 2000wRMS

the second is class A/B but 1100wRMs

they are currently running off of 1000wRMS class D, now my question is will I notice a distinct difference going from class D to A/B or would I be better served going for the extra power, now to let you know it is loud enough for me and already pushes the frameless windows away from the seals when listening to music it does a 146db all sealed up with TL in legal position (UK).

Opinions please.

Cheers

JJ

[JJ.]

I know the A/B option is power hungry but I have more batteries in store I can add and can also upgrade the alt too a 210amp (biggest I can get in but if I lose the a/c I can fit a second if needed) but a lot of people say the A/B will sound better the question is will it be a noticable difference.

JJ

[lowpt]

Here is a quick explanation by Grizz Archer on class D.

What's the deal with class D Technology?!

I have heard many, ridiculous definitions for class D topologies. I've heard people say, of course, that D stands for digital or even that the class is like a report card grade; A is the best type of amp, B is the second best, and so forth. These people must not know that topologies go far beyond the F grade... Actually, D just means 4. A was the first type of amp recognized by the IEEE, a group of professional electronic engineers. B was second, C was third, D was fourth, blah blah blah blah... Truth is, there is no such thing as a digital amplifier! If digital information is written in 1s and 0s, then what would a digital amp do? That's right, make big ones and zeros!! ;^)

Class D technology is growing in the 12 Volt industry for years now. There are quite a few companies producing these amps and I suspect a few more companies will jump on the wagon for good reasons. The main reason is for dramatically increased efficiency. This is done by "Switching" and is therefore a "switching amplifier" as compared to a non-switching amplifier like a class A amplifier.

A class D amp can be 80%-90% efficient while a Class A/B (which most amps are) will fall into the 50-60% range. Let's say we have two identical vehicles and we are going to put a class A/B sub amp into one of the vehicles and a class D into the other. Both amps, for comparison put out 1,000 watts RMS with 12 Volts. The vehicle with the class A/B amp will draw approximately 160 amperes of current and, being 50% efficient, will put out 1,000 watts of heat into the heat sink! Bummer, huh?! The class D amp will only draw around 98 amperes to yield the same 1,000 watts RMS output. Not only will your vehicle like you better for not draining the power supply, but the amp will like you better as well because now you will only produce about 175 watts of heat into the class D heatsink! For you tweakers, that's 40% less current draw and 82% less heat for the heatsink dissipate...

Class D is great for bigger sub amps only as the benefits do not outweigh the cost for a smaller amp. So, why don't people make a class D amp to play 20Hz to 20kHz?! Not a simple answer, but here goes... The audio signal is used to modulate the shape of the square-looking waves of high frequencies. Then the high frequencies are eliminated, leaving audio output. The type of modulation used is called Pulse-width Modulation, or PWM. PWM, like the power supply in many car audio amps is used. Truth is, a PWM power supply is an amp that has DC output only. If you want to play 20kHz you would have to have the output devices switch at hundreds of kHz which almost reaches the AM radio frequencies. You see, the Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) wave frequency must be a lot higher than the desired playing frequency. To play 500Hz, we only need to switch at a frequency around 60kHz. The problem is that when you modulate the switching frequency back down, it gets a bit dirty. Clean enough for subwoofer frequencies, but not clean enough for high-end mid/high frequencies.

In summation, class D amps put out more power and less heat with less current consumption. But as for now, they are only beneficial as larger subwoofer amplifiers.

by: Grizz Archer

[JJ.]

All cabling is Tsunami, Sub's are DC lvl 4 15"s, running a pioneer HU and a audio control Matrix, front end is powered by sundown sax amps one per door.

price for the A/B is the same as class D

A/B amps would be mosconi as300.2 MOSCONI

Class D would be cadence olympia CADENCE

JJ

[JJ.]

Here is a quick explanation by Grizz Archer on class D.

What's the deal with class D Technology?!

I have heard many, ridiculous definitions for class D topologies. I've heard people say, of course, that D stands for digital or even that the class is like a report card grade; A is the best type of amp, B is the second best, and so forth. These people must not know that topologies go far beyond the F grade... Actually, D just means 4. A was the first type of amp recognized by the IEEE, a group of professional electronic engineers. B was second, C was third, D was fourth, blah blah blah blah... Truth is, there is no such thing as a digital amplifier! If digital information is written in 1s and 0s, then what would a digital amp do? That's right, make big ones and zeros!! ;^)

Class D technology is growing in the 12 Volt industry for years now. There are quite a few companies producing these amps and I suspect a few more companies will jump on the wagon for good reasons. The main reason is for dramatically increased efficiency. This is done by "Switching" and is therefore a "switching amplifier" as compared to a non-switching amplifier like a class A amplifier.

A class D amp can be 80%-90% efficient while a Class A/B (which most amps are) will fall into the 50-60% range. Let's say we have two identical vehicles and we are going to put a class A/B sub amp into one of the vehicles and a class D into the other. Both amps, for comparison put out 1,000 watts RMS with 12 Volts. The vehicle with the class A/B amp will draw approximately 160 amperes of current and, being 50% efficient, will put out 1,000 watts of heat into the heat sink! Bummer, huh?! The class D amp will only draw around 98 amperes to yield the same 1,000 watts RMS output. Not only will your vehicle like you better for not draining the power supply, but the amp will like you better as well because now you will only produce about 175 watts of heat into the class D heatsink! For you tweakers, that's 40% less current draw and 82% less heat for the heatsink dissipate...

Class D is great for bigger sub amps only as the benefits do not outweigh the cost for a smaller amp. So, why don't people make a class D amp to play 20Hz to 20kHz?! Not a simple answer, but here goes... The audio signal is used to modulate the shape of the square-looking waves of high frequencies. Then the high frequencies are eliminated, leaving audio output. The type of modulation used is called Pulse-width Modulation, or PWM. PWM, like the power supply in many car audio amps is used. Truth is, a PWM power supply is an amp that has DC output only. If you want to play 20kHz you would have to have the output devices switch at hundreds of kHz which almost reaches the AM radio frequencies. You see, the Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) wave frequency must be a lot higher than the desired playing frequency. To play 500Hz, we only need to switch at a frequency around 60kHz. The problem is that when you modulate the switching frequency back down, it gets a bit dirty. Clean enough for subwoofer frequencies, but not clean enough for high-end mid/high frequencies.

In summation, class D amps put out more power and less heat with less current consumption. But as for now, they are only beneficial as larger subwoofer amplifiers.

by: Grizz Archer

Thats helpful mate thanks I am more questioning whether more power is going to be better in which case I would go for the class D OR whether I will get a noticable gain in SQ by using a amp similar in power to the one's I am running now which are class D and switching to Class A/B.

I thought the down side to class D was the square wave causing lesser SQ due to not forming full waves? ( I may be wrong but I am sure I read/heard that somewhere).

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

JJ

[JJ.]

As said the front end is run by Sundown Sax amps so already class A/B running my mids and tweeters.

Cheers

JJ

[Boon]

You are never, ever going to hear the difference between Class A/B and Class D on a sub.

Go for the Class D.

[menace to soberiety]

boon is correct. you wont hear the difference. the only way you will is MAYBE on low volume levels where nothing is rattling. stay with class d. less heat, less power consumption.

[JJ.]

Thanks for the opinions guy's it's a shame as the Mosconi amps look stunning and my interior colour scheme is working it's way towards white and black with orange lighting oh well 2k shoved up the DC's should get em louder at least maybe get the amps re sprayed.

JJ

[menace to soberiety]

powder coat! or anodizing.