crunkjuice1 Posted January 9, 2011 Report Posted January 9, 2011 I have one question and I am including pics they are the same connection different angle motor side temperarly in 4 gauge and its the one I consider frame to block and wonder what you guys think of it. I have 1/0 awg that I am replacing my "little 3" with and this is the only connection I'm not sure of.
pthrift Posted January 9, 2011 Report Posted January 9, 2011 wait. i'm confused. which connection are you asking about? both? do they both go to the same place on the block? edit: nevermind. you added a pic. I dont see anything wrong with the connection you've got. but i'd probably make sure you solder those connections; it doesn't look like you did on the 4ga one's you've got. Clicky for build log.... 2002 Tahoe DC Power Inc 3 alt bracket with 2x230a. alts 1 stock Eclipse CD5030 2 JL HD 600/4 4 Rockford Fosgate 2500bdcp's 4 DC Audio 18" XL's 4 Pr MB Quart Premium Components 200FT Stinger HPM 1/0 Rockford 360.2 No where near enough sound deadening
99cavy99 Posted January 9, 2011 Report Posted January 9, 2011 looks like a good ground to me, and yah what he ^^^^ make sure u solder them. thats one thing i forgot to do and mine come out once and awhile. ill wait intell after winter to do mine tho to cold out to take wire out lol Once you go loud, you never go back Fi btl 15 pa bamf 5500 Blazer xtreme Thats just winter system New build coming
crunkjuice1 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Report Posted January 10, 2011 sorry for responding late, at the time I did the big three all I had was alot of 4g laying around so I used it like this, 1. motor to frame (these pics) two separate 4g connections to same spot. 2. one 1/0g from negative post to other strut tower 3.one 4g run from alternator to positive on battery. I just received my 28ft. of 1/0 black enough for my second battery neg to front battery neg. The rest is for the two negative's of big 3 and 7ft red 1/0 for alternator to positive of front battery. Next a mechman alternator woo hoo!!! As for soldering what kind of solder do I use or will crimping the hell out of the wire be enough?
Sir-Lancelot Posted January 10, 2011 Report Posted January 10, 2011 Good crimp > solder 2001 Yukon XL Sitting on 35 x 12.50 x 20, XD Monsters Headunit: Clarion DXZ785USB Front: B&C 10NW64 10" Neodymium Woofer, Crescendo XST2 Rear: B&C 8NDL51 8" Neodymium Woofer, Crescendo XST2 Mids & Highs Amps: MB Quart DSC 4125, MB Quart DSC 480 Subs: 4 18" SSA ZCONS Sub Amps: 4 GP3K Pro Electrical: Iraggi 260a, 3 tejcurrent 240a, tejcurrent quad bracket Kinetik - 6 HC2400 My Build Log
Lumpydonut Posted January 10, 2011 Report Posted January 10, 2011 ^ agreed. I go down to my local shop and have them crimp it for me with the hydraulic 1/0 crimper they have 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Pioneer DEH5100-UB 2 - P1S412 4 - Alpine SRS-600 Alpine MRP-M500 Monster 8g power/ground-1/0 Big 3 Soon to come: 2 - T1D212 RF T1500.1bdCP RF T500.4bd Mechman 220 amp alt Kinetik KHC1800 Hit me up if you need help with anything in the Tulsa Area.
crunkjuice1 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Report Posted January 10, 2011 what kind of shop should I look for to do that? and whats a fair price without the banana fingers into my eyes?
Sir-Lancelot Posted January 10, 2011 Report Posted January 10, 2011 what kind of shop should I look for to do that? and whats a fair price without the banana fingers into my eyes? You can go to a welding supply like National Welders and maybe they can do it. I bought one on sale at Harbor Freight for around $50. Like this one 2001 Yukon XL Sitting on 35 x 12.50 x 20, XD Monsters Headunit: Clarion DXZ785USB Front: B&C 10NW64 10" Neodymium Woofer, Crescendo XST2 Rear: B&C 8NDL51 8" Neodymium Woofer, Crescendo XST2 Mids & Highs Amps: MB Quart DSC 4125, MB Quart DSC 480 Subs: 4 18" SSA ZCONS Sub Amps: 4 GP3K Pro Electrical: Iraggi 260a, 3 tejcurrent 240a, tejcurrent quad bracket Kinetik - 6 HC2400 My Build Log
crunkjuice1 Posted January 10, 2011 Author Report Posted January 10, 2011 Thats cool I remember you posting that in another thread, thanks.
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