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I have this

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-22D

It has a digital display that in description on website says " The digital voltage display is illuminated by Blue LED's and requires a ground wire to be connected to the base mounting screw on the output side of the block "

Here's pic of the base hole for that connection

DSC05500.jpg

I had ran a line from their to the ground line of a amp but the display stayed on always. I have left it off ever since and now I am redoing wiring and I wiuld still want to try to use the display. Would running a line directly to battery negative but putting a toggle switch in that line turn it on and off? This is what I have.

DSC05635.jpg

Sorry if this is simple enough I just don't want to goof anything up.

VbjgkeI.jpg

c7HmdKx.jpg

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Yes, running a wire to the toggle switch, then from the toggle switch to any ground point on the car would work. OR if you want it to turn on and off automatically, use a normally-open relay and your amp's remote turn on wire to trigger it.

2009 Cobalt LT

Pioneer Headunit

2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp)

2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp)

2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp

4x Pioneer 6 1/2

Pioneer GM-6400F

Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P

2x Champion series PRO 12" subs

0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery

To come:

New or repaired DTR!!

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i would do the relay option. less wires to run through the car and you wont have to remember to turn it on and off.

on a side note, that sucks. lol. i had something just like that, probably still do, and it would turn off when it didnt sense power fluctuation for a couple min and turned itself back on when it did.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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i would do the relay option. less wires to run through the car and you wont have to remember to turn it on and off.

on a side note, that sucks. lol. i had something just like that, probably still do, and it would turn off when it didnt sense power fluctuation for a couple min and turned itself back on when it did.

^ that makes a good point, how long did you wait to see if it turned off by itself? Are you SURE it stays on 100% of the time?

2009 Cobalt LT

Pioneer Headunit

2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp)

2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp)

2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp

4x Pioneer 6 1/2

Pioneer GM-6400F

Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P

2x Champion series PRO 12" subs

0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery

To come:

New or repaired DTR!!

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Share on other sites

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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