EclipseChris Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 The place that factory grounds is usually not great. They don't ground to bare metal 90% of the time. I am willing to bet that the amp does not have a good enough ground and grounded through the remote terminal. Bottom line, fried. Look up the warrenty and get it replaced. i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Or wait, the amp is grounded to the wire that goes to the battery? So basically it is grounded directly to the battery? Have you done the big 3? And how powerful is the amp? i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osamio Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Or wait, the amp is grounded to the wire that goes to the battery? So basically it is grounded directly to the battery? Have you done the big 3? And how powerful is the amp? Yes, it's grounded to the 0 AWG wire that grounds the battery to the body. And its a 1700 watt amp. and I have 0 AWG big 3. 2009 Cobalt LT Pioneer Headunit 2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp 4x Pioneer 6 1/2 Pioneer GM-6400F Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P 2x Champion series PRO 12" subs 0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery To come: New or repaired DTR!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Check your main power fuse. See what voltage is on each side of it.... EDIT: If you have +12v between your remote wire and your +12v terminal then you probably have 0v at the +12v and 12v at the remote. The amp is trying to turn on pulling all its power via the remote wire, which it cannot do. Check your main fuse. EDIT: Ok, another possibility, fairly likely if it has +12 between remote and + terminal... the power supply section of the amp is fucked, it's dead short to ground. This has popped the main power fuse. Completely unhook the amp, set your DMM to ohms and put it between + and GND on the amp. If it stays at 0 ohms (or like, less than 10 ohms) then the amp is 99% certain toasty-fried inside. And if the power supply section is shot, the output section is probably fucked too because you slipped when you were DMMing the gains. They will take 1 look at it and say output short, no warranty, GTFO. Unfortunately. 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osamio Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Check your main power fuse. See what voltage is on each side of it.... EDIT: If you have +12v between your remote wire and your +12v terminal then you probably have 0v at the +12v and 12v at the remote. The amp is trying to turn on pulling all its power via the remote wire, which it cannot do. Check your main fuse. EDIT: Ok, another possibility, fairly likely if it has +12 between remote and + terminal... the power supply section of the amp is fucked, it's dead short to ground. This has popped the main power fuse. Completely unhook the amp, set your DMM to ohms and put it between + and GND on the amp. If it stays at 0 ohms (or like, less than 10 ohms) then the amp is 99% certain toasty-fried inside. And if the power supply section is shot, the output section is probably fucked too because you slipped when you were DMMing the gains. They will take 1 look at it and say output short, no warranty, GTFO. Unfortunately. The voltage is from the +12v to the Remote, its negative if i flip it around. There IS power coming to my +12V i checked it. The impedance from the +12v to ground terminal is either open line or like 130 ish area. I couldn't get a consistent reading. When you say between + and ground, did u mean +12v to ground or + speaker output to ground? **EDIT I am 100% positive i didn't slip with the DMM, with the amp OFF i put the probes INTO the terminals and screwed them down, theres no WAY they slipped, plus i would've seen it, the only thing i can think is that maybe there is something wrong with my DMM? that it shorted? but it works still, it's fine... I can't think of ANYTHING that could've caused it to blow.... 2009 Cobalt LT Pioneer Headunit 2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp 4x Pioneer 6 1/2 Pioneer GM-6400F Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P 2x Champion series PRO 12" subs 0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery To come: New or repaired DTR!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osamio Posted January 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Bumpppppp. I sent the amp to soundstream for repairs, hopefully under warranty, but i still don't know why this happened.... HELP i don't want a brand new amp and it blows again... 2009 Cobalt LT Pioneer Headunit 2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp 4x Pioneer 6 1/2 Pioneer GM-6400F Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P 2x Champion series PRO 12" subs 0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery To come: New or repaired DTR!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralimore Posted May 12, 2012 Report Share Posted May 12, 2012 Did they fix it? I had a fosgate go out on me back in the 80s. I was working one minute the next it wasnt. I checked all the connections and they were fine. Once that was done I sent it in to be fixed. I didnt waste any more time messing with it. Future advice is, If everything is hooked up correctly and it no workie....warranty the bitch! I don't care if you can hear me from down the block....I just want to make sure you FEEL me from there... I'm a swinger, can I borrow your wife for a few? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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