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Scion tC build (Update 20110701)


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Posted

Chode - Alright cool. I heard Raptor was pretty good but I guess I'm wrong. Haha.

Elite - Thanks man. They are pretty sweet.

xihax - Of all the things I've though of, tinting my tails hasn't crossed my mind yet. I'll keep it on my list of things.

I like the oldschool one..

TDHsiggy.png

Current System: Stock 2011 Tahoe

Loud as F**K

Just kidding

Posted

Chode - Alright cool. I heard Raptor was pretty good but I guess I'm wrong. Haha.

come in and ill show you the difference. theres 4 gauge AWG then theres 4 gauge. the difference is the good stuff (rockford, kicker, knu, and so on) have a 4 gauge case filled with wire. the crap stuff has the same outer diameter case but much less wire and more case.

AWG stands for American Wire Gauge...its a standard for all wire...if it doesnt have AWG its not a legit gauging. theres some "1 gauge" out there that the same as 4 gauge AWG

NoFearX18 said:

Nick will bang just about anything.....LMAO....pun intended

On 4/13/2010 at 9:51 AM, meade916 said:

i was like DAMN, Chode is hardcore! he makes james look like a friendly person LOL!

trainman0978 said:

I dont know who is worse with the buttholes Chode or Big P...

 

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Team Deadly Hertz / Team DC Audio / Team XS Power

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Posted

Chode - Alright cool. I heard Raptor was pretty good but I guess I'm wrong. Haha.

come in and ill show you the difference. theres 4 gauge AWG then theres 4 gauge. the difference is the good stuff (rockford, kicker, knu, and so on) have a 4 gauge case filled with wire. the crap stuff has the same outer diameter case but much less wire and more case.

AWG stands for American Wire Gauge...its a standard for all wire...if it doesnt have AWG its not a legit gauging. theres some "1 gauge" out there that the same as 4 gauge AWG

Ah, got it. Well now I know..

I like the oldschool one..

TDHsiggy.png

Current System: Stock 2011 Tahoe

Loud as F**K

Just kidding

Posted

Earlier I was sittin in my car bored and wanted to really kick my speakers up since the subs have been breaking in for a little while now. I turn the volume on the HU up to just a hair under max and even with the bass remote knob all the way down, the subs hit plenty. I then go to turn the knob up and stop about half way. I didn't notice at first but the "Clipping" light on the remote was lighting up on the very hard bass hits. Of course, hearing so many bad things about clipping, I turn the volume down immediately. The subs and amp are fine, but I'm just making this post for a question or two.

I read up on the definition of clipping on the "Everything you need to know about car audio" thread and it says clipping can result from an amp being over loaded or under powered. I'm certain it wasn't being overloaded as it's a 1200w amp and the subs max power is rated at 1200 so I figured that isn't it. Could something as simple as power wire gauge cause this problem? If so, I'll expedite the process of upgrading my current wire.

I like the oldschool one..

TDHsiggy.png

Current System: Stock 2011 Tahoe

Loud as F**K

Just kidding

Posted

Sounds like you had your gain turned up a little too far.

Edit to say: GOOD JOB! You actually took the time and searched and read instead of just looking for someone to explain everything to you. So kudos for taking the initiative to educate yourself!

1989 Chevy Caprice Classic
350ci V8 High Performance

JVC Arsenal HU

JL XR series components

Infinity Reference 6x9s

Pioneer Premier 4-Channel

Clarion 2-Channel

Rockford Fosgate Series 1 2-Channel

Fusion 2000.1D

MTX Crossover

RF, Knu, Kicker, and Monster wiring

NVX VCW 12in. Sub **Won on here from the Sonic contest!**

*Build log coming soon!*

Starting all over pretty much which the gear listed...lost almost everything I had, including my life. Never take life and what's in it for granted.

Posted

Definitely turn the gain down a tad bit and observe the clipping light again.

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

Posted

Haha, thanks Benji. I've been around a lot of forums and have learned that if you have a question regarding the subject of the forum, it's most likely already been asked and has an answer somewhere.

Also, I tweaked the gain knob down some and haven't cranked the volume knob yet but I will tomorrow before work.

I like the oldschool one..

TDHsiggy.png

Current System: Stock 2011 Tahoe

Loud as F**K

Just kidding

Posted

I've been hearing a lot about these "neo" subs. I know Chode amongst other people have them. I'm assuming neo has to do with the magnet as neo can be short for Neodymium, however I can be wrong.

Please, inform me.

I like the oldschool one..

TDHsiggy.png

Current System: Stock 2011 Tahoe

Loud as F**K

Just kidding

Posted

Just an update: Removed the subs today and redid the internal wiring to include some crimped terminals. Look a lot better now..even though no one but me sees inside the box. Lol.

I like the oldschool one..

TDHsiggy.png

Current System: Stock 2011 Tahoe

Loud as F**K

Just kidding

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