mrazandrewm

Here's the link to a company that I used for my seat lift. The kit is only $145 plus $18 S&H. Increases the overall lift of the seat by 2.5 inches. If you have a hardware store that sells 1/8 inch think washers, you can add a few of them to increase the overall seat lift height by putting those on the bolts/studs before installing the seat lift kit from LMI Welding. Overall, it was a great kit to work with. Very easy and the instructions are easy to follow as well.

Here's a sketch of what I did under my rear seat of my Supercab F150 (mine has the hump up towards the back). Hopefully, you can get an idea or two from it.

Hey guys. A while ago, I saw this post on Sundown Audio's facebook page explaining the differences of each of their 8 inch subwoofer lines. Thought I'd post it here and hopefully it'll get stickied for others to find easily. In order to help with your choice of which 8" woofer to buy from our line-up here is a brief summary : E-8 v.4 : Traditional sounding woofer -- very similar performance to the older SA-8 v1 and 1.5 models both mechanically and thermally. It is optimized for ported enclosures.SD-2 8 : Under-hung, ultra low distortion woofer. Sound is more similar to our new platform drivers like the X and Z v.4 series due to flat suspension compliance curve. It is optimized for sealed enclosures & is the only 8" that we produce that I recommend for sealed enclosures.SA-8 v.3 : Over-hung, low distortion driver optimized for ported boxes. The SA-8 v.3 also has a very flat compliance curve (same spider design as SD-2 model but 2x the stiffness) making it more similar to the X and Z v.4 type sound.X-8 : Traditional sounding woofer -- "punchy" -- the surround & spider were designed with a traditional compliance curve in mind resulting in a very punchy sound. This woofer is more optimized for SPL than any of our other 8s.Found here: https://www.facebook.com/sundownusa/posts/833769213345218

Sure OP should've specified better as to which set he was talking about. But, you don't need to be mean about it...

Update: Ran new ground to frame. Floorboard already had a hole in it from factory. Just had to use a punch to make a hole through the carpet. Now amp and LC2i does not cut out. Also, I made my own power and ground distribution bar. Wiring is better now as well. Thanks for all your recommendations!

Here you go. http://damoreengineering.com/collections/parts-store/products/cc-1-dd-1-dd-1hv-dd-1-original-test-harness

You'll want .75 cu after all displacements (sub and port).

Already did. I got 12.6V on the amp power and ground connections. Whereas before I would only get ~3V. Also did a small jumper from the power wire to the REM. Amp powered up and not in protect!!! I'm quite happy now.

Yeah. Sorry about that. But this was way different. The amp wouldn't power on. Nor would it get up to 12+ volts with the new ground. I now know it's a grounding issue. Will be grounding to the frame now.

I just make two new 14" short runs and wanted to test and see if my equipment was working or not. But I will be drilling the body so I can connect to the frame. Thanks Broke for everything.

No, I changed the location because the amp would cut in and out at 1/2 my normal listening volume.

Sounds good. What about testing the amp right now? Would connecting it directly to the battery help? Positive will be fused. Negative will go to negative terminal on battery.

Still the same thing applies.If you have a truck why aren't you grounding it to the frame? So drill through the floorboard and directly connect to frame? Might as well do that. Yes and make sure you Sand off any rust and use a bolt to attach it. Bolt, washer and nut or self-tapping screw with star washer?

I'll hook up the amp directly to the battery. Positive end will have fuse in line. Ground will be connected to negative terminal. Best ground possible right?

Still the same thing applies.If you have a truck why aren't you grounding it to the frame? So drill through the floorboard and directly connect to frame? Might as well do that.