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About mothra

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  • Birthday 07/03/1981

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  1. couldn't you just get a small cheap bluetooth speaker from walmart or amazon then disassemble it and use it for your project?
  2. why not just get your shape and mount done then use foam? then you just have to body fill it, seal it, wrap it?
  3. what's the problem with a 13.5" height? do you have similar lengths for width and depth?
  4. you getting your voltage number with what tool?
  5. the trunk reaction is similar to what happens when an ANC mic is present. look to see if one is preset or if there's an one/off in the menu of the radio. 2011, I don't recall ANC being used at that time but ya never know.
  6. the numbers difference between the variations is very minimal in the grand scheme of things. yeah there are a few out liars where it makes a decent difference but it really makes no difference. I did a class with Andy Wehmeyer on sub/port placement and it was little to no difference from each position.
  7. bass isn't directional in real life or in a recording. just grab 1 and roll with it unless you are planning on using the LC2i fullrange
  8. take the glass out and bring it to a metal shop to make a plug. then get it welded in and paint over it. you're just going to destroy it.
  9. anywhere you want, just keep them away from any power wires. if any electromagnetic field is near those crossovers, you'll have noise in your system.
  10. most companies, not all, just slap parts together with hopes and prayers. if you call or email companies that actually design their own products, they will provide you with the t/s parameters. some will be off a bit. part of the reason why some of those t/s parameters will be off is b/c very, very few actually build all their subs in house. that's another part that plays the role of why companies don't release the t/s parameters.
  11. fuses go within 18" of every power source (battery/alternator). if you only do it at the battery, then the other side is still live.
  12. keep in mind that the DD1 is measuring audio signal. just because you are hearing distortion doesn't necessarily mean you have a distorted audio signal. your speakers may be creating the distortion. also keep in mind that setting your gains with the DD1 is getting the most power out of your amp without distortion. example, if you set your gain to 34 without the red light but it comes on at 35. if you boost a frequency, it's like turning the volume up to 35 on that one frequency.
  13. getting enough even heat to the center of the strands is very difficult. the outer strands get too hot and deform the jacket. the only way I see soldering 8 gauge or larger easily is to use the terminals that are like cups where you can fill the cup of the terminal with solder and heat it up then dip the wire into it. a proper crimp is every bit as good as a good soldered joint.
  14. love to get your thoughts on this since you think the router jig is so expensive https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-single-fuse-block.html
  15. honestly the price you paid is pretty close to what should be charged for what you would have got. however there are things I question about the build as well as the "windy" and "hair trick" promise. the cuts seem to not be from a jigsaw for the sub woofer cut out. the internal bracing doesn't have rounded edges. where the joints are, there is no seal from either wood glue, silicone, or caulk. as for the windy part, they should be able to show you a box design with port velocity. for the hair trick part, that's a promise too far considering it's a single 15. while it's more common to see a hai
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