korey_hofer

do you know the points and slope of the x overs?

looks like I am unclassifiable lmao

subs up I could not get it to stop peaking around 45hz, back I was able to get it to play flat. I tried sub back port driver side and it moved more air but seemed more quiet.

on a very minute scale, other factors are more important when box size comes to it.

dd's use cheap laminated spiders, you want to tear them in half go full tilt out of the box. If you want your sub to last break it in. The dc's spl subs have the same problem to all of you dc guys trying to one up on DD.

but ideally you still want it as low as possible correct? for a burp box you want it low as possible, for a daily box you want it to be flat. A speaker is more efficient right around resonant freq. you need it to rise at res freq to lower the input power it receives so it will play all freq equally. There is a lot more to impedance rise then just rising 10db and be done with it. Heat, humidity, air flow, wattage, freq, all have an effect on how much the coil's impedance will rise. To be correct, it's not rising at all, the enclosure lowers impedance spikes, play a driver free air and clamp it to see how far it spikes, that is why wall socket test are completely pointless. Everybody always ignores the fact you need impedance to ''rise'' to get a flat responding sub stage. you want your highest peak impedance to be low as possible as it is almost always at your most efficient spot in your enclosure, after that you want it to level out the spikes and dips in the drivers response.

that makes no sense at all coming from you it's no surprise you don't have a clue.

am I the only one that knows impedance rise is what makes your system play all freq evenly with out it all you could play is woofer fs?

here is a comparison vs 12'' hd3c for the people that don't know these

you have a blazer you want to tune to 35hz and face every thing backwards. I've done maybe 20-30 systems in my blazer before it got wrecked, back was the flattest, lowest, and loudest to ear. To the meter subs up metered slightly higher

well I can measure it with a tape measure I had a caliper measurement, but that is saved to my pm's on caco and I can't get to them. the gap is right around 2 15/16-3 3/16. I had 4 layer d1.4's in it. all 4 I paid 1600 plus shipping I just need to sell these

how do you know the pads aren't shot then?

easiest mod is tbar crank if 4wd and any weird scraping marks in the back? if not it's probably inside the rear axle.

yes you will be fine, I've ran my subs off head unit power before. The only thing you will have a problem with is it won't break in nearly as fast so it will take longer to play low as it is designed to do.

I didn't know it would should harmonic distortion, the audio pipe guys need to invest in one then. I was serious with my question, I figured I over looked something and I had. They are the same price though (dd and oscope)