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Sundown has a design for the Zv6 (by the same designer) it is 2.5 net tuned to 32Hz and 35.75 square inches of port area and double layer 0.75 wood all around so for two subs it's 5 cubes net @32Hz with 71.5 square inches of port area, you just need to layout according to the vehicle you have. For a trunk car that would be subs firing back, port firing back or sideways.

that $100 isnt just for a design, its for a design by someone who has taken the time to learn and understand what a sub needs and where... you are paying for knowledge. $100 aint shit in the grand scheme of things. i was going to throw my name out in the ring, but im right in the same ballpark for a design

Ran the truck around today and let things sing. Ran the voltmeter on it for a while, truck was maintaining 14.1-14.2 the entire time, caught a range during a few heavy tracks - max 14.2 min 13.6 at the sub amp terminals. Battery and wire upgrades coming soon. I thought I had a little more wiggle on the stock electrical. Definitely proved myself wrong. Thanks for the help y'all

I saw that Drew does it but, I think he charges $100 USA for designs whether it's for a simple ported box or a 6th order bandpass, I just want a simple ported design. do you think he'd charge less for a ported sub?

Drew Jones aka Bassaholics https://www.facebook.com/BassahaulicProductions

Truck maintained 14.x+V the entire time I was retuning gains. I still did not receive any distortion from the 40Hz -15db track with everything at full tilt though. Ran a few songs after setting up. All my go to songs were hitting clean, loud, and much fuller again. I was checking out some Decaf Muzik (IDK if this is the real Kris Koffee tbh - currently searching for the zips) on soundcloud and found a little distortion at full tilt on some tracks. 60Hz Test tone dropped to 13.73V 50, 40, and 30 hz all stayed above 13.8V at full tilt

Ford has a Battery Control Module (BCM) on this truck to, I assume, throttle alternator usage to save fuel?... Read online that disconnecting the current sensor causes zero issues to the systems and just let's the alt sing her song. Currently testing my volts throughout truck while she idles. AC on, fan on, getting too damn humid 'round here. Will retune gains once I feel the volts are stable. Currently sitting at 14.16v constant with AC/Fan on max.

Ahh yes A concrete sitting area in the middle of a parking lot right under the surveillance tower This design is very human

Does anyone know of anyone that designs enclosures for people? I am looking for a ported box for 2x 12" zv6 subs.

I'm new. I need guidance please. I have two Sundown Sa-12 1000 watt D4 subs and I am trying to decide on the right amp. Just started researching and this what I've observed so far. I'm looking more for efficiency, realizability and quality vs which amp puts out the most power. For example I saw the Orion uncertified dyno test where it did 3866 watts @ 1ohm (beast) but it pulled 481 amps of current. The dyno test on the SKv2 3500 pulled 400( would assume the 2500 pulls less current. Also the JP23 did 3334 watt and pulled 361 amps.) Should that much current be a concern? Isn't that what put stress on your. II realistically need 2000-2500 watts rms with the least amount of strain on my vehicle. I'm not in competition. I'm not going to go out and spend $500 for a 420 amp alternator and another $400--$700 for for an extra battery/power bank. I have an XS power battery, the big 3 upgrade and if necessary I'll fork out $350 for a 250 amp alternator. I know the Orion is a monster and I can control the power. But I'm told to be careful with Orion bc of bankruptcy. And I also read that the amp doesn't perform as well when wire to two Subs with a 1 ohm load. Any comments, insights and recommendation would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, IBare with me I know a little but I'm new to the SPL game. I'm Looking for the right amp or amps for two SA-SERIES V.2 12" D4 SUBWOOFERS I just purchased. I'm trying to decide on whether I should wire them down to a 1 ohm load and use a half bridge like the SKar SKv2 2500d (or if there is anything better out there for $500) or use two SIA 1250D's (one for each dub at 2 ohms.) The SIA puts out 120 watts @ 2 ohms and you all know what the SK can do. I hear a lot about 2 ohms loads being having better sound quality. As far a electrical is concerned right now I have an XS D4800 power batter, the Big 3 and I will if necessary get a bigger alternator (current alternator is 180 amp). I have a JL audio Twk 88 digital processor that runs to my JL XD800/8 amp for my highs and mids. I'm only using 6 channels though (uses about 600-700watts) and to my former Sub woofer amplifiers which put out 600 watts each. (So combined the system used around 1800-2100 watts give or plus. My highs and mids are clear and loud. I sold my subs and sub amps bc I want more bass. But I still would want the subs clear and load and as accurate as possible. I like the idea of having the 2 ohm loads but I've heard that full bridge amps don't bring as much to the table. I've never really compared how a sub sounds at 1 ohm vs 2 ohms. Is there a big difference? Sorry for the long explanation. Any insight and or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

That completely slipped past my mind today when I made that post... JFC.. I went and chased volts around the truck tonight and the 213k mi alternator doesn't seem to be keeping up anymore. I haven't been putting many miles on the truck recently either, currently working less than a mile from home... short 15 minute trips here and there. I was just getting 14.xV while idling when I made the original post... Going to keep troubling shooting and upgrading. Thanks for the help Joe

That a very low voltage with your alt running, if you rev up the engine and you still see 13V or so then you are almost not charging the battery, resting voltage usually is 12.5 - 12.8V and the alt should be sourcing the 14.4 or so.

Yes. And I think I see where that question is leading to. Going to go double check a couple things real quick.

In any case they specify rated power @ 14.4V so your amp is not sourcing anywhere near rated power.

After thinking on this, I am having zero audible distortion (nor when I was viewing the Oscope during play..again for what its worth with a cheap tool). I actually tested the Sub EQ setting on my HU just now. 40Hz -15db track from SMD's CD, everything wide open/flat, bass knob to max, I did not set off the DD1 until 14 of 15 Sub EQ setting was reached. I didn't try listening to this though, just seems absurd.

Understood, 12.2 getting spicy, definitely below what the truck needs. When setting gains...HU is full open filters and flat EQ (120Hz LPF..highest setting), SIA2500 has HPF/LPF opened to maximum ranges. After gain is set, HU stays at 120Hz LPF, I tune LPF/HPF on amp with DMM then maybe adjust slightly by ear after that. I never turn up the bass or sub EQs on the HU, only mids/treble sometimes. I never use the Bass Engine on the HU. Battery in DD1 is 4-5 weeks old. I will swap a fresh one in and test. I'll Google up on this and see what I can learn. I have a cheap ($80) Oscilloscope/DMM combo. I understand the limitations the small display has for projecting waves in detail. Also crispy, thank you all the helpful posts you make on here. I've learned a quite a bit from reading replies from you and the other bassheads around here. Cheers

Roger that loud and clear, thanks a lot.

if I remember correctly the SIA is a full bridge amplifier, I don't think the dd1 reads full bridge correctly. something about how the amps work doesn't jive with the dd1. I thought I read something on Facebook about it... idk I could be wrong. now that I'm thinking about it, I don't believe I ever got a clip light when using my dd1 on my SIA3500, although I could for sure hear distortion in the sub

the whole "this voltage is this many watts" is not accurate at all. the best way is to match up wattages with amps and set everything clean. I'd recommend finding a different amp or speakers to better suit the other.

yea, that 12.2 makes my eye twitch a little bit. it's my understanding that the SIA amps are supposed to be ok with lower voltage, but that's getting down there. for sure going to need some electrical upgrades. a second battery will get you by in the meantime. once you get steady voltage I imagine you'll find a clip light with the dd1. for reference, what are your subwoofer and crossover settings look like on the head unit? also how long has it been since you've changed the battery in your dd1?

Could use the DD1+ to get an approximate output voltage to 1000wRMS or no?

It's a 1500wRMS times two, so it will be a bad time I suppose I'll probably wire them down to what 800wRMS per channel at 4 Ohms, thanks a lot!

by rms rating you'll be at 1600 watts for the 8 speakers, so it depends how the amp sends its power out. if it is a 1500 watt amp divided between 2 channels then you'll be right in the butter zone. if the amp is 1500 watts per channel, then you're gonna have a bad time