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no problem at all. if you have any more questions feel free to post them up and ill do my best to get them answered. i usually try to check in here a couple times a day and answer what i can.

Oh ok that makes a lot more sense. I also didn't realize how much more space tuning the sub that low would take. Just about halves the volume I would need for the total box. I'm going to play around with some calculations some more and I'll post the updated plans soon. Seriously thank you so much you have cleared up a lot.

the peak here is right in the playable band for a subwoofer. starts falling off in the 50hz range, which honestly on any of my systems thats where midbass starts to roll in at

the problem with tuning that low is most music doesnt go that low so tuning down there is wasted output. in a nutshell tuning that low will result in a quieter performing sub on almost all music. bringing the tuning up will give more output where its useful and enjoyable. essentially it would be like only turning the bass knob up half way. will it work, yea. are you leaving a lot on the table, also yea.

Oh sorry just saw your last post. Is the EQ that I attached above good? I didn't like the look of the hump at around 35 hz as it looks like it doubles in volume at that frequency. What is wrong with tuning a box that low? It looked as though the volume would be the same from 25hz all the way up which i thought was the goal but I could be 100% wrong. Thank you so much for all the help

@crispy_chick3nThe EQ that I attached was tuned at 24hz. So it looks like the calculations worked. Is it a bad thing to tune the box that low? I ran it through WinISD at 32hz tuning and didn't like the way it looked. Right now I have it in a box tuned by someone else so I am not 100% sure of the exact tuning but it is a little peaky and lacks the low lows that I am looking for. This is what the EQ looked like at 32hz.

hell id honestly like a little more port area per foot, but this might be ok. just have to check port air velocity on winisd. goal is sub 30 m/s. lower is better, but under that and you are usually a-ok

my suggestion would be to bring that tuning up a bit. into the 32-35 hz range. youll gain more output in a usable band. tuning that low (in the low 20s) isnt really good for music. and hell even tuning in the low 30s could be argued not the best for music, but if you want it to reach down low and still be able to jam to some edm id suggest bringing the tuning up somewhere around what i have here

this is what i get when i punch that box into torres. unless i got port length wrong, that bad boy is going to be tuned super low...

I'm going to tweak this some more to try to make it have a smaller footprint so I will post any updates I make as well.

@crispy_chick3n I could not get the software that you mentioned to work, probably just my lack of knowledge on the subject but this is what I was able to come up with. I attached the EQ for the 24hz box with 3.7 ft^3 of internal volume as well as the Air Velocity for the size port I am using. I read that you should try to get close to 17 but I assume that 19 will be ok. Next, I took these values and put them into Sub Box Pro. This gave me a box with a vent sticking out the side, but I assume that I could add a second layer and it would work the same. (Please let me know if this isn't true) I did the calculations for how long the second layer would have to be while maintaining 3.59 inches of width throughout the port. Then I realized that this new port would decrease the internal volume, so I calculated the difference in volume and extended the front of the box accordingly. It needed an extra 2.97 of depth to be able to keep the 3.7 ft^3 of internal volume that I had in WinISD. I was worried about how this would affect the tuning but it seems like it would only lower it fractionally. I am pretty sure that this is calculating correctly. At the bottom of my scratch work you can see the finished dimensions from the top down. The height would be 18" so 16.5" internally as I am using 3/4 MDF for this project. I hope that I did this right as this is my first time doing anything like this but the math seems to check out. Any clarification or advice is seriously appreciated.

we dont really do vs threads here, so i wont answer which one to get. but to answer your first question i believe the saev4 is a fairly new revision to the sae series amps. both sundown and d4s have good quality and the customer support to back it up, so you should feel comfortable with either company

its been a couple years since ive installed one of these, but if i remember correctly there isnt really a gain adjustment on the dm608, i believe its a volume level control. i would start at the HU find your max clean. id turn the dm608 all the way up with the EQ flat. go to one of the amps, if the amp is all the way turned down you should still get a clean signal on the dd1. if you dont then im probably wrong.

you are on the right track. you know where you want your box to be at, now you need to get a box calculator like torres box tuning calculator or the ultimate car audio app. from there you can input overall dimensions and port dimensions to try and get it to your specs from winisd. when i do it i usually start with my maximum dimensions and see where the cubic footage is at. if its within a cube or 2 ill input what i roughly want for a port and see where im at for cubic footage as well as tuning. from there its just a game to play with the dimensions to get what you want. please feel free to post up some screenshots of both the box calculator as well as winisd, and id be more than happy to help steer you in the right direction. ill be the first to say im not the greatest at design, but ive been doing it now for the better part of 15 years and ive got a decent grasp on at least what not to do.

Start at the front of the chain and backwards, steve explained this in many of his videos, use the speaker outputs to find the distortion point, then move to the DSP, then the amps, someone can correct me if I said something wrong, at least that's how I do it on systems I tune.

Ok. Maybe I’m just not reading something write which is totally possible Can someone please list out the steps to a system with a dsp. My system as follows. Stock head unit high level in (speaker wires) to Dm-608 to 3 amps. Highs amp. 2chammel mids. 4 channel sub. 1 channel not deep. I can’t find any data on how to use dd1 with a dsp thx dman

I am beginning to go down the rabbit hole and learned about WinISD and began tweaking. I really liked the frequency graph at a 3.7 ft^3 volume tuned to 24 hz. This gave me the flattest curve I could find and seems to be like the right fit for me while keeping the space the box takes up to a bare minimum.

Does anyone know anything about these amps? there is literally nothing about them online. I was looking at getting ether the Saev4.150 or the Down4Sound JP34. would ether be better than the other? what is the build quality of the sundown? their site even states its basically not built to the standards of the salt amps so I am kinda wondering if I should even touch it and just get the down4sound amp.

This is my first time posting on the forum and I'm very new to all things car audio. I've done lots of research but I keep running into the roadblock of what box design I should build. I have a Sundown X15 V2 paired with a Kicker 1200CX (I plan to upgrade this later it is just what I have at the moment so if you have any recommendations feel free to leave those as well). I am putting the box in the trunk of a 2021 Honda Accord Touring. I mainly listen to Rap Music with some EDM/Dubstep intermittently. I got the X15 as I was missing the low-frequency response that I desired in my old system. My main question is how I should design the box. I want a box that plays the lows well without being peaky and making the box as small as possible to maintain as much trunk space as I can. Any advice is appreciated so thanks ahead of time.

Yeah these aren't fused , never been a fan of fused ones personally. This was basically a block with 4 bolts and a cover.

Do a slot port with 100 sqin of port area, 9 net volume.

I have a 2021Sentra SV big screen no Bose. It’s not audible for me. I intend to use a 5.1300 and may opt for a custom enclosure. Audio Control has no one who carries their full line of gear, and certainly no local car radio place is adequate. I really don’t want to do the installation myself but don’t want to be Moke. The installation will likely require an upgrade to the factory charging system, but Mechman is only a 6 miles away. I’m to old to want to assume the installation position, and too deaf to live with the factory junk.