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2/0 Distribution Block?


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Run into a bit of difficulty.... installing an Autotek MM4000.1D amplifier in my super duty pickup. Going 2/0 gauge from the battery to behind the back seat close to the amplifier. The amp takes twin #2 gauge positive inputs and has twin #2 gauge gnd connections.

I've looked around for distribution blocks that take 2/0 input but also have 2/0 output. Can't seem to find any. Any suggestions?

Otherwise I'm just going to terminate all cables in copper eyes and run a bolt through them all. Kinda ugly though. :unsure:

Edited by westvan_dude
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Run into a bit of difficulty.... installing an Autotek MM4000.1D amplifier in my super duty pickup. Going 2/0 gauge from the battery to behind the back seat close to the amplifier. The amp takes twin #2 gauge positive inputs and has twin #2 gauge gnd connections.

I've looked around for distribution blocks that take 2/0 input but also have 2/0 output. Can't seem to find any. Any suggestions?

Otherwise I'm just going to terminate all cables in copper eyes and run a bolt through them all. Kinda ugly though. :unsure:

well my best suggestion is go with a 1/0 input for the 2/0 wire that you have, you'll probably have to trim some of the stands on the 2/0 for fit into the 1/0 input side. as for a 2/0 output, why? i don't know of any amps that'll take 2/0 for input, only 1/0. and yeh you could use copper eyes but the look ain't all so appealling. good luck bro.

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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here are some fused blocks...

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Rockford-Fosgate-2...1QQcmdZViewItem

or here is a site where it looks like they custom make them..kinda expensive though, but would cost about the same as two of those rockford ones...

http://ecatalog.squared.com/cgi-bin/huggyc...;Req=0&Ref=

Edited by amatt85

i likes me some audio stuff...

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that's funny cause i forgot about about the drilling part. i have a stinger T-block and ended up getting the one with 1/0 gauge input and 3-4ga outputs, i ended up drilling one of the 4 ga sides and making it suitable for a 1/0. so there you go bro. hook her up......

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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drill out the 1/0 holes to 2/0 and you're all done. don't trim off any wires or you might as well have used 1/0 all around.

actually it wouldnt make a difference. if it did, why would they made 1/0-4 gauge reducers and 4-8 gauge reducers? youre still getting the same power throughout the whole thing, till the very end. and there certainly isnt 2 gauge leads inside the amp. so i guess he should just run 2 8 gauges then huh? thats about all they are inside the amp.

duck.jpgSMDsigbannr9.jpg
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rf 2/0 fuse blocks and d blocks are the shit... worth every penny

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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