Rell

It does look like a nice car but for the price, smooth pass. I cant see spending 70k plus for basically a Toyota Sedan and just the extra luxury that comes with the L badge. Id go drop that kinda money on New Corvette or New Z28 Camaro, something to have fun with especially if I already own other 4 door vehilces/family cars.

Haha... had something similar done a few months back, my lil lump was on the back of my neck. Never hurt, but everyone complained that it looked weird so Fk it. Had to go. I think they said it was Lipoma. I remember them rolling me back to the room, I did a few deep breaths and next thing I knew I was waking back up in the little curtain room when I got prepped for everything, all done and ready to go. Dr. London hooked it, outta there in like less then hour.. Pretty small scar too

A Fast 102 would be pointless if his motor is mostly stock besides the headers thats on there. Now it would be a nice addition with heads and cam. I would just shave the ugly truck intake, most of the crap ontop of the truck intakes is useless. Just make sure you dont use fiberglass to smooth it out or fill any holes. You need to use nylon plastic and a plastic welder. Urethanesupply sells a plastic welder for plastic radiators(which are most commonly made of nylon for side tanks). Most cooking spatulas are made of nylon plastic, you can get spatulas from walmart for less then a $1 and use that as donor material to plastic weld to the intake. Once those bosses that are on the sides of the intake are shaved off there will be some nice sized oval shaped holes there. Here is a pic of a nice shaved one. . . . . . Nice work Steve, This guy is really lucky to have a buddy like you to help him out. The work previously performed on this car was gruesome for lack of a better word. I know you said you don't want to know who did the work, but I would really like to know. I stay in Sac and can't always do my own work. So to know of local places like this to avoid would be nice. Is your boy a member on here that I could PM or could you PM the name of the shop to me if you do happen to know.

Is it possible to pick some of this up from you? I live in Sacramento, near elk grove.

This stuff sounds great. Now if the fumes were anything like epoxy resin it would make it that much better. Just went through the thread, most of questions I had myself were answered. But I didn't see anywhere if this resin contains any wax in it? Is it more like a laminating resin where you can apply a layer right over a already cured layer. Or would I need to scuff the cured layer then continue the remaining layers. Edit- also how does it wet out? Is it a little thick or runny.

I just went ahead and purchased some non-insulated butt connectors and some new crimpers from Klien Tools. I'll dip the ends of the wire in lil dielectric grease, crimp it, then heat shrink it. Trying to twist this crap together to solder it seems impossible.

lol, I'm getting huge bulges . Instead of just twisting the two wires together so I could solder I attempted the hook method. I twisted the thick copper strands as tight as I could, used needle nose pliers to bend U's then hooked them together, I then tried to kind of crimp and smash the hooked joint flat and solder and all I got was a huge blob of shit, looked like there was a huge rock got inside my heat shrink tube, the buldge annoyed me so I cut it and tried starting over. Guess maybe I'm being to picky over my connections.

That's what I've done with some of the smaller gauge wire, I twisted them together and got nice solder joints no problem. But for some reason GM used this wire with thick ass Fking copper strands that are a bitch to get twisted tightly together so I can solder them.

Thanks for the quick reply, guess crimping and heat shrink only it is then.

While I was searching all I could find was Crimping VS Soldering topics. But I was curious about crimping two wires together with uninsulated butt connector or C-Crimps AND adding a little solder to them. I'm working on a engine swap and have moved on into the wiring under my dash. I've removed the complete original fuse block and all the wiring from under the dash for headlights, turn signal wiring, radio power wire etc etc. It was a real rats nest from the factory. So I'm shortening really long unnecessary connectors, re-routing everything and adding split loom to clean it up. The signal wires they used back in 1988 is ridiculous lol. Here is a comparison To the far left is the copper strands from some original wire, about 14AWG In the middle is copper strands from 16 AWG TXL grade wire. To the far right is two pieces of 16 AWG wire twisted together and ready for solder, I cannot get the original wire (to far left) to twist together tight and clean like the wire (to far right) I've somewhat gotten two wires to twist tightly together for some solder but my damn finders are bleeding lol. I was thinking about using some uninsulated butt connectors to join the two ends together, crimp the connector to the wire and with the little bit of exposed wire from the butt connector to the wires jacket solder the wire to the butt connectors ends. Then heat shrink tube over it. I've had my good and bad experience with butt connectors staying on and sometimes coming off, figured a little solder on the ends wouldn't hurt? Any objection to this? Or use C-Crimp and then solder it all together. Here is how the factory spliced all the grounds together. Then they just covered it in black ducktape.

I just got quoted $300 to run new line. And no, both would not be running at the same time. I would unplug the dryer THEN plug in the compressor when I'm using it. Then unplug the compressor and hookback up the dryer.

Think I'm going to pickup some wire and plug tomorrow. Hope it all works okay. When searching google with similar questions I get mixed reviews. Some say you shouldn't others say its okay.

I could look through the phone book or penny saver all day and be a hit or miss with someone. Looking for actual feedback on someone you can recommend me in Sacramento, Ca area I just bought this air compressor from lowes since they accepted my 20% off harbor freight coupon, I couldn't pass it up. http://www.lowes.com...ar|1&facetInfo= The Kobalt from lowes Runs 230v, 15.7amp. Hot-Hot-Ground wires Originally was just going to try and run it off the clothes dryer plug when the dryer is not in use. After measuring I would need 13-14ft extension cord to reach. Was going to use 10-3 SO wire. The dryer has 30amp double pole breaker at the panel (which is located on other side of the house). I beleive the clothes dryer plug/outlet is a Hot-Hot-Neutral?? This plug NEMA 10-30 125/250 Volt 3-Pole, 3-Wire. No ground I believe. Ive read that technically if the dryer outlet is wired back to a main service panel the neutral is bonded with the ground so in effect the neutral is also used as a ground. Would this be correct? Would wiring it to dryer plug be safe until I get some extra change for someone to run wire and outlet to the garage? Money is all tied up into a engine swap so trying to see what will work.

X2 on tapplastics Mostly cause its literally 2 min drive from my house depending on how long I sit at the light. Plus I try to support local small businesses. $17 for a quart $42 for a gallon Some people that live closer to water like bay area, Cali. Monterey and Santa Cruz, etc will prob get better prices from local boat builders. Then I would.

I lay down tape Spray glue then add tin foil Hit it with regular turtle wax 3-4 times Brush on light coat of resin First layer of glass goes down-wet it out Stop at 3-4 layers Let cure over night cause I'm not usually in a rush Pop off the mold with ease. Retains shape

I plug in the leaf lower or air compressor. Blow away any saw dust, body filler, glass etc off he cloths. Might even use the shop vac, whichever closets. Got a couple pair of old jeans in rotation until i head to the laundry mat. Would never use my home washer to clean this crap.

Finding out where you need to drill your holes in home made one just means its time to get out ruler or digital caliper. After a while though and cutting a lot of different sized circles you now will have tons of random holes in your home made jig and you dont know which holes cuts what unless you are marking them. The time to do all that is more time spent then doing a lil math to figure out where you need to set your pin with the jasper.

Jasper is worth the $ but you also gotta be careful with it. I would love an 1/4in aluminum one. I could copy my jasper over to aluminum and drill through all the holes but then gotta mark all the numbers.

Sure Fiberglass forums.com Read for days on there.

lol the sticky to plastic thread was literally right above this thread.

Payment was supposed to be sent on 8th but no reply back from buyer yet to confirm payment sent or not. Will do. Yes all 4 for $100 + shipping + paypal fees(if paying by paypal)

Sorry don't have any plans for attending autorama. Yes they are 8ohms Curently waiting on a reply back from someone to see if they will be sending Money order or not. It it falls through I'll let you know. Sale is pending.

Check your pm dax

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-424

Partsexpress.com