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I love pissing off my neighbors. Oh, and its fun working on shit

I call BS on YOUR BS statistics don't lie. and RedBaron is right. The car is only as safe as its security...and also location. MOST of these car thefts arent happening in high end neighborhoods.

8 volts? jesus....thats asking for trouble....

I think I lost my receipt...so i dont think i can get a new pair (or at least a fixed one) They are having that damn problem of one side being louder than the other. Now im using the skull candy inkd version. For running i am using radioshack brand wrap around earphones and i LOV them...too bad they stopped making them

yea i heard the fleks wire is the shit. i actually have a small piece of it and all i can say is damn....

maybe not, but theres still other benefits that outweight passive crossovers. I have never seen anyone recommend going passive over active other than ease of wiring. And i also dont know anything a passive crossover can do better than active.

nope, it has an internal amp. It just so happens that mine blew with the previous owner....i picked it up dirt cheap

lots of good replies here. Thanks fellas. Ill get a chassis reading when i go over to my friends house either tomorrow or Thursday. I think this topic cleared up a lot of talk about grounds in general.

well my eclipse cd7000 just happens to have a blown internal amp....but everything else (including the pre outs) work fine. lucky for me i guess sorry this couldnt answer your question,, i just found it rather amusing....

couldnt it just be possible that the ones on the madden covers are usually the ones that play harder, making them more prone to injury>

i should have worded it differently. I should have said that it would be more efficient to run active. and running active makes it easier to adjust time delay, phase, and other such things. There is far more flexibility.

It would be interesting to get a resistance of a complete frame ground. from the copper going to the frame then the frame going to the battery. Then get a resistance of 15 feet of 1/0....then see how much power is lost. I guess cost is also a big factor here....

one more thing. Running active allows you to tune everything to your specific needs (depending on the quality of the processor). also, having a passive crossover wastes energy. After all, wouldnt it be nice to amplify ONLY what you need?

here is the best way i can explain it. An active crossover processes the sound BEFORE its amplified. A passive crossover crosses overt the frequencies after they have been amplified....sooo... Head unit-------crossover--------amp------speakers= active Head unit-------amp--------crossover------speakers= passive using the crossovers on the amp would be running active, due to the fact that the signal is first crossed over and then amplified. Correct me if im wrong someone.

lol I understand how the process works Here is a picture of a frame rail on a ford truck. That doesnt look too spot welded up to me...I mean sure theres welds around, but the entire top/bottom is straight....no interference. I could ground to (for instance) the right frame rail and not hit a single weld the entire way. again, is an entire Beam of steel less resistant than the 1/0 return path. again, im only challenging the theory....I think it boils down to what has the least resistance.

ok, not really arguing AGAINST you, more like challenging people to think more on the subject. This was the kind of discussion i was hoping to have....Im not really against the fact that the battery is one of the most important components in the car. Yes I know that everything must return to the neg. Im more stuck on the fact that copper may be a better conductor, but does surface area play a role? I mean is a 8/0 run of steel more conductive than 1/0 of copper?

your battery isnt going to run it. the ground is the return path, it doesnt matter whether its a wire or a frame or a chassis....electricity takes the path of least resistance. If its less resistance through the chassis... then the 1/0 wire you ran straight to the battery is useless.

Sorry but that doesnt make sense. It is the other way around. The battery is useless without the frame. Remember also that it is but merely a load to the alternator. Imagine the frame of a car compressed into a wire. It would pwn any size wire you can find.

Is it always better to run your ground right to the battery negative? Im hearing so much BS about which is right lately its making me confoosed I can kinda imagine that chassis grounds (for us unibodies) are good only to a certain point, but what about frame rail grounds in larger vehicles? Its kinda tricky, I imagine the frame having a shit ton more surface area on it than a run of 1/0....does it all come down to which has less resistance? I can understand that once you start getting up to like 20kw power you can only run so much through the frame (and especially the chassis). But for most of us in the normal range...say around 1-8kw....which ground is best? Does a straight run of 1/0 have less resistance than a frame rail? I tried to read up on this topic and there was a big debate about it on DIYMA.....but what do u guys believe is correct? oh and heres the link to the thread at DIYMA...I found it to be a good read. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy-mo...battery-ok.html

I love pancakes with butter aunt jemima sizzurppp....and why was this thread started?

sicfreak91 is my fav on youtube, he is soo good for his age.

why not help him get louder. Find out what hes doing wrong and help him fix it. Sounds like you're trying to get over on him or something.

damn man...good stuff there. Im building my box this weekend.

good luck to you.