bassbaker15

Nice dude its been a while and this thing has came along way... vids of this so called hair trick!!!

ive ran my two amps on a stock alt and 3 batterys for a few months now.. even added a 4ch and it will play bumpin for long periods of time with out droping low at all... i say add a battery in the back and you should be fine for now

I am actually getting some of those LED strips for under my dash, along with a few other places aroudn my truck, ive used them b4 and they are nice. And i have a spare cubby under my climate controls, i am getting a EQ and installing it there to get rid of the empty space... could be helpful for you as well, you never know. I have one of those sunpro tri guage pods for my truck, but i am getting another volt instead of temp, im going to have one testing the front and one on the back batterys, so i know there are no problems, and then the oil pressure is good cuz the factory one sucks. other things you could do, is paint, reapolster some of the little odds and ends to make them look better, more custom.

people can be stupid as hell, but i actually did that same thing today. Some lady actually ran a redlight to get away from me last week... I get a kick when ppl try and roll their window up. Like thats really going to help much. and i want some taco bell too!!! what time does the drive thru close again? its 3am here

I have this paper for english. This is a very large paper that tell if i grauduate or not.. I have done most of the paper.. I just cannot really think of an into and conclusion for it... I am having a writers block or something.. its really gay... I was just wondering if anyone would help me with this.. Like come up with a good intro or something or at least help me in some way... Here is what i ahve done of the paper so far.. any help would be appriciated.. Car Audio Car audio has been around for a long time. But in recent years, technology has brought it closer to the consumer and it has grown into its own culture. Intro? The technical aspect of car audio plays a very important role. One must know these things to be able to properly and safely install a car audio system. A typical car system might consist of a woofer in a box in the rear, midranges at the side and tweeters mounted on or in the dash panel. Loudspeakers are simple devices from an operational standpoint. An amplifier generates electrical energy that alternates constantly from positive to negative in a pattern of waves that vary in size and frequency. Essentially, the speaker operates by responding to positive and negative waves from the amplifier, causing it to be moved back and forth. Woofers are loudspeakers designed to reproduce the lowest frequencies, or bass end of the audible sound spectrum. They may be anywhere from 4" in diameter all the way up to huge 36" giants meant for highly specialized scientific purposes. For most consumer purposes however, sizes that are most common are 4, 5, 6, 6.5, 8, 10, 12, 15, and 18 inches. Subwoofers, as they reproduce bass, move large amounts of air and require very large amounts of power from an amplifier. These types of speakers need an enclosure to function at full potential. The midrange of the sound spectrum is of critical importance, as this is where the heart of the music lies. Vocals and instruments should sound natural and detailed, not too prominent or recessed, nor too bright or too dull. A midrange speaker is usually much smaller than a woofer, but with a radiating surface area greater than the typical tweeter. Since the midrange is designed to produce optimum response with much less power than is required for the woofers, the magnet structure is usually quite a bit smaller, and the rated power handling is also much less. Highs are reproduced by the tweeter. Tweeters provide the sizzle and sibilance that give a more lifelike sense of presence to the experience of music. They come in three common types: Cones, Domes, and horns. Tweeters usually do not require very much power to create relatively loud sound. High frequency wavelengths are quite small and only a few watts can generate piercing levels of sound. Woofers require a subwoofer enclosure to perform correctly. The enclose helps them reproduce bass and are called a "direct radiator." They are called this because the sound is produced directly from the "radiator" (the driver or speaker) without the assistance of a contrivance. There are a few different types of enclosures. There are sealed and ported in common setups, but in more complex systems, they use more in depth enclosures such as a band pass or bass reflex enclosure. A sealed box is the most common enclosure of all. It is the most simplistic direct-radiator system. The rear of the driver is in a sealed enclosure, and none of the rear output of the driver contributes to the sound output. Sealed boxes tend to be among the lowest efficiency systems for a given box size and bass cutoff frequency. They are however quite good at reproducing a fairly broad range with little deviation or distortion. Ported boxes are the next most common type of enclosure people use. In these, an aperture or port in the box provides a means for the rear output of the cone to contribute to the total output of the system. However, it only contributes over a very narrow range of frequencies. In fact, in a properly designed system, the front output of the cone is reduced at the same time the output of the port increases. Consequently the port does not re-enforce the output of the woofer; it replaces the output of the woofer at these frequencies. If done properly, this can significantly reduce distortion and increase power handling at very low frequencies, a region that can be difficult for drivers. A vented system is more efficient and louder at certain frequencies than a sealed box system. A Band pass box is usually only present is complex and more high end installs. These are compound systems in that they have at least two enclosures: one on the front and one on the rear of the driver. The enclosure on the front, is a vented box, and acts as a low pass filter and can couple the output of the woofer more efficiently to the outside. They are called "Band pass" because the combination of the rear enclosure and the driver form the high pass portion while the front enclosure forms the low pass section. Making the bandwidth of the system narrower raises the efficiency of the system. To power all of the speakers in a system, amplifiers must be present. They are the source of power that moves the speakers and reproduce all of the sound. An amplifier is designed is to create a product that has no effect whatsoever on the signal fed into it, other than to increase its amplitude and prepare it to be sent to a speaker. In physics and electronics, amplitude is literally the measurable high value of a periodically varying quantity. In lay terms, it is the strength of a signal or sound without regard to its content. Amplitude measurements of audio signals generally refer to the signal voltage, which is only one component of what determines power (watts), or the ability to do work. Most consumer amplifiers are made to conform to standard expectations for input and output impedances. Most inputs accept impedance matches from 47k to 100k ohms, and outputs are rated for 4 ohms (most automotive speakers), with high power systems capable of 1 ohm loads or smaller. The real trick, is to figure out how much power is required for the specific speaker and application involved. An amplifier's power is dependent on the voltage applied to it and the current flow it can sustain without breakdown or overheating in the presence of a normal load. Moreover, these functions must be performed without incurring any form of perceived distortion. Fortunately, modern electronics makes it possible to meet these requirements without great expense. Adding amplifiers will add a serious strain on a cars stock electrical system. A common saying in the car audio world is “It takes power to make power,” meaning it takes a good strong voltage produced from the charging system of the vehicle for the amps to produce the full amount of power they are capable of doing. If to much power is put on a stock electrical system, it can cause they amplifiers to break, wires to burn up, or some other bad issues. Two things are a must when installing larger audio setups, and they are a larger alternator to produce more amps of current (charge the battery faster) and extra batteries for more kinetic, standing, power. Another key ingredient to a good system is a head unit. A head unit is basically a CD player. Good units to get also have places to plug in your mp3 player or an Ipod, a flash drive, and other devices. The head unit is very important, because it is what sends the signal to the amps via RCA wires. Most head units also power the high and midrange speakers by an internal amplifier, but some people add external amps to produce more power. A bad head unit will produce a bad signal, and can cause failure in many parts of the audio setup. Once all the basic knowledge is known about car audio, one can move onto designing a setup to build. The first step in a build is figure out the budget, or how much there is to spend on the necessary parts of an install. Once a budget is declared, the speakers, amps, head unit, and type of enclosure can be picked out around what kind of vehicle it is going in, and how much space that can be compromised. The different types of equipment used, need to be able to correspond and work together to achieve the maximum efficiency and performance possible. This part, along with some others, needs to be well though out, skipping steps in getting different equipment can cause problems, and even meltdowns down the road. Once everything is picked out, it is necessary to get the measurements on the space available for the box. After that, those dimensions need to be sketched up to design a box that meets the requirements for the drivers being used. Once the sketch is complete and meets those requirements, and looks desirable, it can be built. When building an enclosure, most people use MDF particle board; because it is a very strong bored, and helps reproduce bass quite efficiently. Along with building the box, it must be covered in some sort of material also. This is a crucial part in the overall visual effect of the box. There are many different options in the covering, but most people use carpet, vinyl, or even paint it. For my senior quest project, I chose to install a complete audio/visual system in my truck. It was a long strenuous project, but it has taught me a lot along the way. First, I stripped down the interior of my truck and then sat down and came up with a design that fit the application. I had to get all the dimensions of the truck, and sketch up a drawing to the correct specifications for the subwoofer and sound quality to maximize the sound quality and performance of the completed install. After some trial and error a perfected sketch was achieved. After marking out and cutting the wood to the exact length to my sketch, I then proceeded in building the physical enclosure. After it was built, the subwoofers were installed in the box, and the amps were wired up correctly. From there it was just a matter of tying up loose ends and getting it to play some music to make sure everything was perfect before continuing into the final steps. Failure to do this step, and a lot of unnecessary work would had to have been done over again. Once I made sure that it was all perfect, it was time to move on to making trim panels, or beauty panels as some like to call them. This step is done to hide the big bundle of wires, along with the cosmetic defects of the build. The trim panels had to be cut to fit around the cab of the truck, to make it appear as if the audio system has been a factory option when it came off the assembly line years ago. These are one of the most important aspects in the look of the finished install, because if the trim doesn’t look right, the whole install will look bad, and as if it wasn’t done correctly. Upon completion of the beauty panels, I had to pick out a material to use to cover them. I narrowed it down to either vinyl or suede, and ended up going with suede because it would add to the over all look and feel of the build. Once the material was purchased, the trim panels were completed and installed. The interior of the truck was put back in, and it was officially done. i know its long as hell.. but it had to be.. i tryed to BS it and make it sound good enough for judges that will know nothing of it.. any input is welcome..

hell ya!!! i love mine.. Lookin good

I love my lvl 4s so they have my vote

yes they are rated at that at 1 ohm, but from some of the tests i have seen they can do a little more than that. Def great amps!! i have two of them myself.

wow that sucks man, i hope you get it all worked out

That is a really good idea, mine would just be more personalization options. Like along with changing the backgrounds, change the icons and the whole nine yards to what you want like when you jailbreak an iPhone. But I like this idea better, gl with the project man, let us know how you do.

im a kawasaki man all the way, and i prefer 2 stroke over 4, but for you a 4 stroke would prolly be better GL on finding a bike

DC lvl 4 10s with lvl 5 coils

lvl 4s FTW!!

ill be around looking! im just never lucky enough to win haha

i vote leave it off... if you cant duck it, chuck it haha

eh.. i have those boss wheels on my truck.. and i cracked one.. i take care of my wheels and slowed down for bumps, no pot holes.. and one still cracked.. isnt that lug pattern 5x 4.75?? if it is, thats only of the esiest patterns to find wheels for.. i couldnt find many for my 5x5 pattern

the crunch will do 3k+ at 14v around 2800 on a decent electrical. But IMO i would rather go with a sundown amp

DC lvl 3s sundown 1500 DC power alt