jhmeg2

i ........HATE sanding fiberglass. it is the worst shit....... can I get an AMEN!

damn sub wouldnt fit, so I had to start over. but i been at it all day. up at 3;30 got it cut apart remounted the baffle, then to get more supplys. home depo. resin, mixing buckets, a few new drills... fillaly found a perfect circle jig, then a new router bit...then back in the shop for 5 hours, got the glass done. taking a break then the sanding begins. oh joy... a little bondo, some more sanding, then paint. as is...

well, what... nothing?

so here is an update of what i got going on. i jacked the angle way off, so now it sticks out a bit to far, but i hope it will hope load it off of the floor and rear hatch. let me know what you guys think. i;m going to paint it to match the truck.

in a 1.5^3ft enclosure, I can do a single 2.5" port, 3.5" long. or a 1.75" port, 1.37" long. wanna stay in 40Hz.

Yeah its a t-line. now that the sub has broken in a little, i'm amazed. but with the new enclosure, i was looking at 2.5^3ft, with a 3" port. But after talking to the guys at DD, they say it will work, but not the best. So the smalist I can go is probably about 1.5ish...could still use the 3" port. what do you guys think, single port, two smaller ports, what size ports? some body help me out. It almost has to be that mige to fit the motor and port in it.

this is what i have sofar. but when it -6 and you have a tractor in your winter workspace, it would taker for ever to heat the whole shop, so i go out, do a bit of work, then come in and stink up the house with fiberglass. but untill i get some more glass work done this is what i;m ridin with.

I've seen the q-logics, but it still sticke out a bit and its not really custom

its not that I don't want to see the driver, ireally wanna see this this thing, its so cute. I want small. i am trying to get back all my space in the truck, ampe and tack up 0 space, processing takes up the subfloor compartment. Granted the 6.5 a-pillars are a little obnoxous/

I need a little input from you guys. I'm glassing out the right rear storage pocket. But, I'm using a single DD SW6.5 and a 3 inch port in about 2-2.5". I plotted in WIN ISD, not gonna be real loud, but i dont want loud I want simple, i want clean. Any thoughts.

werd... is it going to only be SPL or will there be SQ as well?

also remember, that with a glass enclosure, the less flat the better. fiberglass will be stronger on a curve. If its done right, you can easely get away with a solid 1/2". good luck. also you can use packing peanuts, or unpopped pop corn seeds, to detrmine air space.

adding that much tape to them will change there mechanical weight, and when you build a box, your mechanicl Q will be incorrect. There are a few options. Its sad you bought them with bab cones. You could recone them, or buy a new sub, and take the $20 loss. If you are not to limited on space or it you are, look at maybe a singel 10 or 12. Granted it will cost you, but if you do it right the first time, it will cost less in the end. if I can be more help, let me know. good luck.

did you say that you only used double sided tape to hold that pod on the dash...?

nice choice on equipment. as far as having the focal tweets in the dash or pillar, they are going to be BRIGHT... I would recomend the midbass in the door, one-two layers hushmat(or the like) on the outer-inner door skin, and inner panel, and seal the door off best you can using fiberglass, policarb, or sheetmetal and a layer of mat as well. Keep the mid and tweet together is the best bet(les work to do later on with processing). On the back of the kicks, make sure you also apply two layers of mat, to keep the plastic from resonating. You wont need to seal the kickpanels with fiberglass, i think that might be a wast of your time, unless they will be the midbass. I would think that the 6.5s will play down to about 50-60, and your sub will be from 55ish down. Time correction, and phassing will be time consuming, but worth it in the end with active. space will be taken up by your multiple amps. Have you considered using Zapco DC Refrence amps, to do both amplification and processing? A 6 ch for the front stage and a 4 ch for the rear and sub. Its nice to have a lot of power, but in the corect enclosure, even a small sub can really fill out the sound. and will require less power and in turn, cost less. Think about it, you could run two amps for a three way active setup with rear(active) and sub, and have your processing on board as well. Less power consumption by equipment, less space taken up by equipment, less wire to run. just my thoughts, I have had some what good success in the past with SQ. Now its just for my listening pleasure... and obsession. lol, hit me up if you need healp or input. Also, if your going to run an alpine deck, have you considered the 701. highly recomend that piece

I've used this one before, worked great. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_519_Kicker-KQ30-03KQ30.html

I love 8s, but would love a 6.5" sub that is as beast as this. Its a great looking sub. If I had any ..... money, I would get one of the lvl2 8's

that in a t-line, done

Thats right. I'm one of the fat kids here.

All I gotta say is, "Damn thats some good shit"! I may be way of here, but, It takes hardly any time to make, its cheap, and hella good, Just wish I wasn't so lazy I'd eat another box.

Werd. thats whats up!

Maybe in a trailer with a flexable port to the vehicle blow through kind of thing... Shiiit, you could do 30 21", or 60... how about 60 12" sony Explods...That many of anything is going to do something cool, lol!!! But for real, I wish you the best on this build. It will be epic indeed. I did'nt go that big, I only did 8 10"s, but it was a daily driver only vehicle kind of thing. I wasnt really going for numbers, but more of a just to do it kind of thing. Did 150+, not by much but 50+ none the less. Can't wait to see this build.

sq is much more expensive than spl is, I know of 10,000 dollar comp sets maybe more expensive to biuld ... but ALOT cheaper to up keep during competition ... true depending on the type of equipment your running, and how much you abuse it.

You don't need to spend a lot to get good sound, I've built world class cars for very little. Are you willing to modify the car at all? What kind of space are you willing to give up? Do you want this to be small and stealth?, or showy?... I am in the same boat as you, sort of. I am looking for ideas as well. I am pondering the thought of getting a Subaru WRX, and I'm active in my truck now, and leaving that system alone. In the WRX I am going to go with a kenwood DNX9960, which has time correction,crossovers, and 5.1 I will most likely be passive with a three way. 1" silk dome tweet and 3" dome mid in the a-pillar, close to on axis, and the 6.5" or so in the door, coax in the rear. A full range 2" center, and between a 6" and 8" sub in a t-line. I have the two 4 channel amps I'm going to use, and also an eclipse EQ2102 30 band EQ to throw in if I need. ( the deck only has 13 bands). Can you all give me some suggestions as two what drivers to use. I am open to all offers and ideas.

Run 1/0 from the batt back into a fused distro, then 4 gauge to each amp. The shorter you can keep the runs of 4 gauge the better. Add up the total fusing of the amps and thats the size you put under the hood 12 or so inches from the batt. This will let you to in the future change subs and amps and have the power you need already there.