xxgokouxx

I order online also. There's a few reasons. Tax is one of them (don't want to start a flame war here, it is my honest opinion on things), shipping is another usually (I aim for free shipping, or try to with multiple purchases). I don't like dealing with outside people because they upcharge too much.... IMO you'd make more sales with reasonable pricing that's close to online. Most sellers here in FL (specifically in Orlando) charge MSRP and don't want to budge from it. I understand people gotta make a living, but yeah. LOL

Even though I'm still new to the community, the hostility has ceased after a while.... I've come to learn that a lot of members are very helpful on here . Even when I'm wrong helping other folks, I don't get a, "please don't be a dumbass" type comment, it's more like, "naw.... that's not really how it works" type of comment. Cheers to you, and all the cool folks @ SMD

Looks great Mr Meade.... Finally u come out of the closet with it lol

I think people pick and choose between brands because they can't afford both tbh with you. I'm an Xbox fan, simply because I can't afford both consoles, so I'm forced to choose a side (one I'm so used to after all these years still ).

That's an awesome trick! I'll keep this in mind next time I do work in the garage Thanks!

I didn't know this is how stuff works either. Would be cool if HowStuffWorks had a subwoofer/speaker production series.

Hey guys, just thought I'd follow up as I was curious wth was going on with my system lately... I figured out the problem of why I've been having such bad voltage drops. It was my cheap-assed distribution block.... I am now doing more research into my electricals and what I need to do a full wire rebuild on the system. It was one of these distributor blocks, with a 120a fuse: http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/agu-fuseddistributionblockwmeterledsandalarm.aspx I was soo furious that was my MAIN problem. I hooked up the compressor wires for my Accuair system STRAIGHT to my 1/0 gauged stinger system, and literally voltage drop was nonexistent anymore. I also feel even dumber, while I still admit this, that I used a cigarette lighter voltmeter, thinking it's accurate enough to read voltage readings on my system (another dumb thing I've done and learned my lesson on). Since I've hooked up my CT Sounds amplifier, I've been seeing nothing below 13.4V on full tilt. This is off an Optima battery and the Mechman alt. The voltage readings are actually REALLY good. I'm at 14.5 at first startup, as it warms up, it simmers down to 14.0, not 13.5 or 13.8.... My apologies for the inaccurate posts, I should have put up what my gear was! I will be posting up in the electricals section soon for further assistance.... Thank you to all of SMD for your insight and help!

If there is no signal there will be no clipping. When the kick hits a signal is sent to the amp to play that note. When that note is amplified pass what the amp can cleanly do it will turn on the clipping led. When the kick stops and the signal being sent is either of less voltage or nonexistent the indicator will turn off. In Steve's videos (unless I haven't seen some of his latest ones) he send a continuous 40 Hz tone to the amp. Music is dynamic and not always at the peak voltage that it can be. That's what I was referring to, the Dynamic readings, as explained in this video: So is it okay to have half-second "clips" on the indicator or no? TY for the response btw TY Jacob for the explanation. I feel like I have more peace of mind now.

Thank you mechman! I'll start up a post soon in electricals .

Thanks for the info! I thought clipping was audible lol. I also have another question, on sharp beats, like in trance, electronica, and dubstep, everytime a beat hits my clip meter goes off. Should I be worried? In the videos where I watched Steve explain that minor clipping is what you hear normally when the amp is in the car... If I misinterpreted it, I'd like to know now before it's too late. TY!

I was wondering the same thing as you, except I have an SA-8. Now my questions are answered as far as that.... Onto clipping, I have the at1400.1d, and was also wondering if that was clip indicator comes on EARLY, because my voltage is stable at 13.8v, and I don't see anything lower than that. I also don't feel or hear distortion at all, nor do I hear clipping.

That's why I enjoy reading your posts, you're one of the few that think realistically . I find it nowadays that people who can't afford something of that price bracket always put it down, saying they can always get better for cheaper. At the end of the day, you couldn't have said it any better, "you get what you pay for."

The front end is something I've honestly had to grow on (since I'm considering a new Lexus soon). I still am finding it hard to grow onto now... The interior is where it's really at though.

You got me curious now.... whys it a shitty car?

UPDATE: Got a new replacement Optima batt (free of charge of course) and just slapped her on the charger, it holds a pretty decent charge of 12.9.... I'm a bit nervous as it was given to me at 12.3V when I picked it up..... I had it on the 20amp charge, and dropped it to the 2amp charge just now and leaving it overnight to see the results.... The mechman alt definitely isn't the problem, unplugged and got a CEL. Plugged her back in and she works good again. Is there no hope to bypassing the CEL?

TY Mechman! Since you're here, I was hoping to ask if the variable voltage box you guys sell would set off a CEL if I have it set to only ~14-14.3v?

Looking into it, I TRIED cross referencing the alternators, there's two differences between two models, one is 3-bolt and one is 2-bolt, can you take the alt out and take photos of it? From there I might be able to help you figure out which one you need. Also, if you want, you can go to your local autoparts store, have them pull the alts out from back on the following car models: 3970014 350 69-77 Pass, Chevelle, Camaro, Nova, Monte Carlo 3970014 350 69-79 Truck 3970014 350 72 Corvette late '72 Follow that layout and call mechman with a car that cross references with your alt. GL!

unplug the alt? Isn't that dangerous? EDIT: FWIW, Steve's IS-F, when running the box, had CELs go off (from reading his threads). Our cars electricals are VERY VERY similar, so I'm sure my CELs would go off too. Is there any way around this? There HAS to be somehow!

Do you guys think it will hold over when I'm pushing ~1400w? (My guestimate is 80-100amps, correct me if I'm wrong?)

I asked on the post above, they didn't seem to respond whether or not I will have codes... CELs is one of the things you don't want in our cars, as it ANNOYINGLY pops up on the dash cluster while you're trying to read for other stuff (like MPG's and whatnot). Someone said Singer has successfully setup theirs so that's why I asked for Singer's info, since maybe he can answer my question. Thanks Snow!

Update, weird symptom, I took the Optima battery out, swapped to my OEM. Everything works GREAT! Out of curiosity, I took my dead looking Optima (it was sitting at 12.3v) and charged it up, now it sits at 12.68v on the shelf, been that way all day.... I'm sure if I took a SMALL load off of it, it'll kill the battery instantly to 12.4v again, plummeting overnight. As for the OEM battery, it rests at 12.65-12.68v as it sat for a few hours now.... It looks to be in great shape compared to the Optima (resting at 12.4 after 3 minutes, and getting lower overnight). The car sits lovely at 14.0v, but slowly dies down to 13.5-13.7 now, I don't know why... Someone here suggested to contact Singer for the voltage regulator.... Anyone have a clue how to contact that person?

EDIT: WHOAAA, if you're a mod, delete this post! I made a mistake in the WRONG topic.... my bad folks!

Shoot me the engine code on here, I might be able to help

I don't know about domestics, but import engine blocks have engine codes on'em, maybe you can source down the engine code and wiki what cars they came out of. GL!

I did indeed throw it on a charger, I know the battery is faulty and Advanced Auto refuses to replace it, hence why I'm thinking of slapping the AGM back on tomorrow. My AGM rests at 12.7V FWIW (OEM Lexus Batt) Yeah I agree, they usually charge around 14.4 during a cold start and lower down to about 13.8 after it's warmed up. Also reason why it's showing 12.8~13v at 500rpm is because the alternator isn't spinning fast enough yet. I don't even get 14.4 sadly, I get 14.1 on a GOOD COLD morning (60-70F). In regular weather it's more like 13.5-13.8v. Under compressors running, 1.2k RPM i'm getting 13.8V. For some reason the alt is much more stable now. It was being bipolar when I first started this thread. I indeed checked for belt slippage, I looked around the belt and no sign of black dust around it, alt looks brand new still. I did not replace the alt belt. EDIT: Forgot to say, thanks for your help folks!