chewie

x2...one of the main reasons i come to this site..

gas is made differently in the winter and performance greatly suffers from it.. also try blocking off half of the radiator with a peice of cardboard to get your car nice and warm.. if it gets too hot and tries to overheat then reduce the amount of cardboard.. a hot motor in the winter WILL get better mpg.. in the winter the air is also more dense and your getting more air in and the car shoves more fuel in to compensate.. also cold starts yeild a very rich fuel map.. also check the coolant temp sensor that goes to the ecu.. if this is screwy you will get terrible gas mileage and performance. everything i have said is for cold weather climates where its normally very cold out all the time.

check your fuel filter sounds like its clogged... pull it off and try and blow through it.. if you cant freely blow through it you found your problem..

if you really think its the injectors test them with a multimeter and read the ohms.. than pull them and energize them with a 9 v square battery.. as you flush them out with brake cleaner.. if they click and release pressure. they are fine.. usually theres some crud that will clog them. the brake clean will blast it out.

take the fuel filter off and try and blow through it.. it should be free flowing.. if not then thats causing a issue. do you have acess to a air compressor? if so make a boost leak tester.. google it you will see how to make it..that way you can track down any leaks easily

check fuel filter.. put a quick shot of starting fluid in a vacuum line and see if it will kick. also check for vacume leaks.. get a bucket of water ready.. spray starting fluid where all the vacum lines and intake hoses one by one as you have a freind try and start it.

make your own.. get a relay from radio shack and wire it in.. its really easy and straight forward to do.

just cause you have new batts doesnt mean you have full voltage coming through the leads.. there could be a problem in the switch or in the harness.

check the voltage coming out of the oem headlight harness. try powering them up with a straight lead from the battery.

28 square inches of port area will cause port noise.

first you gotta meet a man named hank. hes in a yellow rain suit. he will tell you where to find a unicorn.. then you have to harvest the horn off of the unicorn and then kill the troll under the san fran bridge with it... you must then take the blood from the troll and face paint with it. then you must take the horn to the very top of the bridge and cast it into the bay whilst screaming.. STEVE MEADE!!! then only may you proceed to meet mr meade.. you may not pass go . you may not collect 200 dollars.

lol thanks... but yeah you totally have the airspace to do 18s.. just do the port the entire width of the box.. facing up and maybe a peice of pvc cut in quarters on the opening to smooth the transfer of air.

theres room for 18s... sub up port up (port against trunk lid..) ive seen black men in asians .. it will fit.. you have the airspace.. do it..

take the timing cover off and inspect the belt... and go from there if it looks sloppy and has marks like the teeth of the cam gears showing through its time to replace.

im sure there are local hyundai boards with someone on there who will do the job for ya way cheaper than a service center would.

thats probably the best idea.. specially if it is a interference motor..

you better hope its not a interference motor.. if that belt breaks your looking at all new valves at best... that belt is supposed to get changed at either 60k or 100k.. dont cheap out get a new tensioner too..

give that bitch an italian tune up.. shift it yourself and let it rev out to at least 6500..

synthetic doesnt break down it just gets dirty. 3k for synthetic if you have a clean motor is a walk in the park. and changing at 3k is just wasting money.. when i go to full synthetic changes at 5 is what happens.

the reason why people say its hard on the seals is because synthetic actually cleans your motor and where you have buildup preventing a leak. you can acually cause one by getting rid of the buildup on the seal.. its not any worse for your seals.

right before you change your oil pour a quart of kerosene into the oil and let it idle/rev it up a little bit once and again for about 10 mins.. do this once the motor is already up to temp. what this will do is clean all the oil passages. the oil will come out crazy nasty but it may solve your oil pressure issue.

if its a large turbo and your running low boost.. realistically you dont really need a intercooler.. your intake air temp wont be high enough to justify one.

your best bet is drilling through and grounding directly to the frame rail.. its the thickest peice of metal on the car. and it is a straight peice from the front to back.. no spot welds for electricity to have to go through.. ground there up front and in the back.

unless its a race motor there is NO need for royal purple.. << royal purple fan myself.