Ron36

My wife told me she wants a nice record player and since I’m the audio guy I should know . I told her I know nothing about records but will ask here, so help a brother guys it for my wife so money is no issue , both a player with speakers or adding speakers but has to be really easy to use for her.

JL isn’t garbage but for the price of 1 12 you can buy 3 -12’s and be 3 times as loud. My JL experience has been 600 watts means if you run 700 it blows to shit and brands that advertise on this site like Skar, Sundown and many other know that 600watts really means 1k and they stick to that at half the price. You can blow your money however you want. Probably shouldn’t diss brands that actually pay to advertise on this site . Fuck JL

I clicked on this because I saw DD SQ then saw all the JL love and puked in my mouth and stopped reading. Thought you were going with a better brand then just one that says 100 watts means 100 watts and blows at 110. There are way more brands out there then mainstream (JL) way over priced and shit quality. You can spend half the money and have a great system with the brands people use on this site. Sundown, Skar, DD, B2, DC, and many more just read the advertisements these companies say 500 watts and you can put 1000watts all day clean power , been in car audio for over 20yrs and when JL says 500watts it blows at 600. Skar RP line is budget friendly.

Sorry I don’t have the answer never been tested on this site but 2 runs of 4gauge should be better or equal to 1 0gauge. Would love to see a voltage drop test from Steve or Big D Wiz on this . Keep this post alive and maybe we get a YouTube test.

Not trying to be a dick but there’s 0 JL builds on this site for a reason , I’d run 3 Pyles for every 1 JL and save money just to sound the same.

All I’m gonna say is FUCK JL , Over priced shit , they can handle rated power and not 1 watt more Sundown can handle 500 over rated all day with good electrical.

Probably should go marine grade subs if open top.

Yes , sub will unload and almost no sound will come out like running free air. Should hear mechanical noise from sub bottoming out . Subs are designed for specific amounts of pressure to reach there peaks and when to much pressure like a small box or not enough pressure oversized box (to much port) sub will unload. That’s why each sub has specs , but when running SPL got to try every square inch of port to gain numbers it’s a battle . There’s a fine line between box , power and space to get your goal, every car is different. Most SPL guys have changeable ports .

Best 8’s you can buy but Sundown , DC , Gatley Audio, also make great subs.

I’m not a fan of Kicker not trying to rip peoples choices , if you keep having the same issue with same box same subs that box is the problem, I don’t know the specs they need but you need the right built box for the subs and that means it has to be built. I called Sundown for my 3-10’s box and they were more then happy to help me out . Those subs are rated at 600RMS and because of the box and my good electrical they had 1K to each sub for 3yrs and never blew. Ended up selling to my friend and he still has them. Clean power and the right box for the subs they last along time. Also I think brand can help. I’ve built many boxes for people with no space never had issues but got to build the box . Last 2 boxes were 2 Sundown SD3 - 10’s and 3 DD shallow 10’s for me.

Had to go sealed but did build one for 2 -10’s ported.

I did 3 -10’s under seat build , shit slammed, I don’t think your electrical is good enough. 3,300 watts on stock ALT plus whatever is running your mids . I don’t see anything about batteries not battery. I ran about 4500watts with mids and had 250amp ALT and 6 batteries to hold voltage.

Never ran those but I have run Skar VD, DD slim line and Sundown SD-3’s , would recommend all 3 in a sealed box. If that helps at all.

I miss AA Subs , always wanted some but now there gone, built very well and can handle almost double power .

Nice to see you back building