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Everything posted by Ron36
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Just so you know it cost more to run 1 amp at .5 the right way then 2 at 1ohm each. You need 5-6 batteries plus 350-370 ALt and multiple runs of 0 Gauge for .5, but at 1ohm a couple batteries and a good ALT should do it. I ran at .64 and the constant voltage watching drove me crazy . Not worth it save your money do it right. You already bought great subs feed them right or you’ll think they’re shit but it’s your electrical not feeding them the power they need. When I ran under 1ohm the day I put my 350 ALT on nothing else my system got some much louder and it was just electrical. That’s what makes systems loud not subs.
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Depending on size it’s fast or slow and painful , also depends on where you get it. I have sleeves on both arms and back half done, noticed elbows suck but the worst part is I normally sit for 5-7 hours and your body doesn’t like to not be able to move the way it wants to , it cramps and hurts more then the tattoo. But if you’re getting a small flower then it’s fast and easy. It sucks sitting for long periods of time and the more breaks you take the longer the tattoo but I will tell you this they’re very addicting and never feel finished. Can’t wait to go sit in a chair next month.
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Wiring setup suggestions 12k
Ron36 replied to blazn22s's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
I’m hoping with all that the subs are going in the bed right? What’s the bass plan. -
Amps are Skar SK1500.1 and Skar SKM400.4 . Had a custom Huel wire harness made and that guy does great work makes speaker wiring pretty much plug and play.
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Some how the amp rack didn’t show up so here are the pics of the LC2 and Amps , Also the Super Tweeters in the rear.
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Sounds good not used to 8’s but for now I’m happy, if I get bored of it I have 2 Sundown SD-3 10’s that can drop in that box. Not impressed with the Skar SKM 400.4 though. Might be putting Fosgate boosted rail 75x4 but will wait till spring it’s-10 here now.
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Then resin like crazy , got 5 layers and the UV lights drying everything. Used SMD Sunflash and that shit is no joke resin dries when you tell it . I used UV lights and will be making new tweeter pods for the door panels with this stuff later.
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Sub stage , I know you love ported but absolutely no room here and hell no not doing 2-8’s. So box is sealed, fiberglass with SMD sunflash and that stuff is awesome resin that dries when you tell it to
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So firsts things first 22’s cause I don’t even let my wife ride on anything under 20’s . Almost makes it look like a real truck Almost.
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So when the used car market went crazy stupid I was offered enough for my F150 to pay my house off , so of course I threw the keys at the dealer and ran. Ordered the Maverick just wanted something small but needed a (truck). The Ranger was not impressive to me and sorry guys been a Ford tech for 25yrs and I don’t do Chevy’s cause I like my weekends free.
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So I ordered the 8’s kinda just want to see what they can do. Will post a build log when they come in . If they suck I’ll chop it up and put the 10’s in , because the 10’s are shallow subs I kinda figured the 4 8’s might cancel out 2 10’s and be pretty even. Kinda doing it because never had 4 8’s before had about every other subs you can think of and not trying to be a ground pounder anymore I’m getting old.
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So have been looking to build a new box , I have room for 2 separate sealed enclosures both will be around .65-.7 cubes each . Was thinking about 4 Skar VD 8’s but I already have 2 Sundown SD-3 10’s laying around. Both would fit in the sealed enclosures . Amp is a Skar SK 1500.1. Just wondering which would be louder and if it’s even worth spending the money on the 8’s but they are cheap . Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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I ran 3 Sundown SA-10’s rated at 600RMS at 3K but my electrical was good 260AMP ALT and 6 batteries, Subs took it for 5 years never any issues, Subs still pounding now my buddy has them , It’s all about your electrical only about a third of the people on here understand that clean power won’t blow your subs. When your voltage goes down current goes up and current causes heat and distortion which makes subs and Amps smoke. That’s the number 1 thing to know for all electrical.
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Korean built amps have been the best for awhile now , Sundown Salt , Skar SK, American Bass VFL, DD, there’s more , right now the Brazilian Amp thing is hot , not a big fan but can work for some people. I’ve tried it but you need to really know what your doing to tune them.
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I would choose B2 over any basic over the counter manufacture like Kicker , JL or whatever you can buy from Walmart , They are from Denmark so not very popular but good quality, still a lot of other options too, Skar, Sundown, DD , Rockford ,DC, Incriminator and many more if it’s just white you want a lot of marine amps are white and are the same.
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Random Picture Post V2
Ron36 replied to SnowDrifter's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
I don’t want any money but that piece looks like it goes with the air vent that’s in there rear quarter panel. The vent would be on the body and they normally vent out behind the bumper cover , that flap can help keep debris and water out. They are there to depressurize the cabin. -
Electric cars and car audio?
Ron36 replied to Mattc43's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
I work on Tesla’s and besides the price they are awesome to drive but the biggest complaint is they list 300-400 miles per charge but because they are so fast and fun to drive you average about 120-180 per charge . These things are fast , I’m not sold on electric cars till I see 1k miles per charge and between 25-35k in price for base model. For me I always pictured electric cars with a motor on each wheel like on the back of the hub so no axles needed and no wiring all fly by wire , but I think we are pretty far from that a lot of stuff is fly by wire now but no enough still to many wires .