MECHMAN

We have been closed for the July ourth weekend. You posted at 8:30 at night on Thursday night. We Have a 200 amp unit for $449, and a 250 amp unit for $499 Prices include shipping. Thanks Matt

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=49147

I have a couple gently used 1005 XS power (powermaster) intellichargers for sale. They are in like new condition, in stock, just used in our shop to keep in-stock batteries charged. These are totally automated, capable of charging/maintaining large banks of batteries, just set it and forget it. They will charge 12 or 16 volt batteries. These are $299 new, I will take $179 each shipped. I will personally warranty them for 90 days. thanks Matt 760-490-2754 [email protected] Features » 12V and 16V AGM Compatible 25A Max Output Three Charging Modes LED Indicators, and Ammeter to Monitor Status 6' Heavy Duty Cables with Clamps Built-In Cooling Fan for Reliability Compact Size, Only 24 Pounds Reverse Polarity Protection

Right now I have 2 D1000s left, and 6 S1000s left at this price. Thanks MAtt

Come on, you know you want to go 16 volt...

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=48739

I have a several XS power (powermaster) D1000 full weight 16 volt AGM batteries for sale. They are all fully charged, load tested, and in good condition. These are the new style, about a year old. They are $259 new, I'll take $155 each shipped. I will personally warranty them for 90 days. Holler at me 760-490-2754 [email protected]

16 volt batts should rest at 17.2 volts. If those have been sitting at 15.7 volts for long, they are probably pretty sulfated and might not have much life left.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=48535

SOLD Thanks!

Assuming that your amp is stable at 18.7 volts, 16 volt batteries will always outperform 12 volt batteries, period end of story. If you are going to go through the expense and effort of a multiple alternator setup and have to buy more batteries, the may as well be 16 volt, the difference in cost is negligable, amp for amp, pound for pound. (16 volt vs. 12 volt)

This price is roughly HALF what you can buy this unit for anywhere else. Someone needs a low cost, high quality 225 amp alt for a GM SUV....

Just FYI Mrbubbles- Your MechMan alternator is already 16V capable WITHOUT having to buy an external regulator. Just turn the white adjusting screw in the digital red regulator on the back of the alternator all the way up and it will charge at 18.7 volts, which is a good place to be on 16 volt batteries. The easiest and best way to do what you want to do on the street would eb to add a seccond 12 volt alternator in the smog pump location. You could easily run the vehicle, moids, highs, deck, etc... of a 170 amp 12 volt alternator and a single 12 volt battery under the hood, then run your current MechMan alt at 18.7V to a bank of 16 volt batteries dedicated to the sub amps. This is how I have my truck set up, and it works great. No need to run any modules, and you don't have to worry about 3 post batteries swelling up with street driving.

SOLD

Yup, we're just off of ashville hwy in straw plains

Hmmm, I might have to stop by. Shoot me an e-mail when you get a chance at [email protected]

SOLD Thanks!

Where's the next big comp going to be located that team Nemesis is goin to be at?

This is not a "sale" really, we are closing out a line of alternators that we no longer carry. We have sold out all of the large case 200 amp closeout units long ago. I still have lots of 140 amp GM one wire units in chrome, polished, black and regular finishes, I also have some 1965 - 1995 standard Ford one wire units left as well. I also have some 150 amp large case Ford units, which have REALLY good output even as low as 500 rpm, which makes them great for vehicles with really low idle speeds. We still carry all of our current production 150, 200, 250, and 300+ amp units.

Install looks good! Can't wait till you can do some burps at idle. The difference will be HUGE at idle between our unit and your last unit. MAtt

Here's another comparison for the wall of shame: This unit cost right at $400 and took three weeks for the customer to get. It is based off of the standard Honda Accord Denso housing with a different stator. Every other piece in the unit was re-used OEM parts. It was sold as a 200 amp unit, claiming 120 amps at idle, and it barely made 70 amps at 800 rpm (almost nothing at true idle speed) and 159 amps peak. A MechMan DynamoXL 150 amp unit would actually outperform this unit at ALL rpms, especially idle, and wouldn't even be working up a sweat at that amperage level. We use the same large case late model housing regardless if it is a 150 amp unit, or a 300+ amp unit. Our DynamoXL units sell for only $375 shipped. Everyone thinks that 150 amps isn't enough for their application, but the fact of the matter is that a MechMan 150 amp DynamoXL unit will easily outperform most other 200+ amp units under real-world driving conditions. This is why it is so frustrating to see alternator manufacturers not use SAE ratings. A MechMan DynamoXL unit typically dynos well over 100 amps at TRUE idle speed (600 rpm) and full output by only 1,400 rpm. They usually exceed 160 amps (SAE rated) on the dyno, but each unit varies some.

Don't be afraid to run the alternator backwards. You will loose about 20% of your cooling, but if it is an OEM output alternator (150 amp or less out of a large case) you would probably never overheat it. The biggest problem would be belt slip. Running two 250 amp units definitely is not going to happen off of a common alternator pulley. The inside 6 grooves on the first alternator is going to be responsible for gripping 500 amps worth of resistance, and a 6 groove pulley with good wrap usually starts to slip around 300 amps worth of alternator. Even with a backside idler, you would be forever battling belt slip under full load.

Good year gatorbacks are good, so are Gates "green stripe" belts. I reccomend squeezing on the shortest belt that you possibly can so that the spring tensioner is as far back in its travel as possible, that is usually 1/2 - 1" shorter than stock, but every vehicle and belt varies a little. Guess and check is the best method to maximize your belt tension on a serpentine setup.

Thanks for the cool writeup! Glad you are happy with it. Matt

Most vehicles will use the stock belt, but it is always a good idea to put a new premium belt on to increase belt grip on the pulley. That will improve the overall performance of the alternator under a load.