MECHMAN

UMM, yeah your voltage is going to be low, because the alternator can't charge without a regulator, LOL. The wire on the regulator goes to a keyed ignition hot circuit capable of carrying 12 amps. This means that you need to run it to a wire that is only hot when the key is on. If you run it to a constant hot source, the alternator will stay on when the car is off, and will slowly drain the battery. BTW- PMs or E-mails are a better way to get your questions answered. Mech

Steve runs only (5) XS power D3100s for 20,000 watts. I'd like to see how well that would work with 5 group 31 Dekas. If you have plenty of room to run twice as many batteries to accomplish the same thing, there is nothing wrong with running cheap batteries. However, most of the cheaper batteries (and some expensive ones) use a large portion of recycled lead, which is detrimental to performance and lifespan. XS power batts are made with 99.98% virgin lead, which is why they can do a 3 year free replacement warranty, and most Ebay batts have little or no warranty. Also, the D3100's weigh 82 lbs, a good 20 lbs more than cheaper group 31 batteries. You get what you pay for.

Bump! Still have a bunch of 200 amp Fords and 150 amp GMs left!

Polished aluminum or Chrome (your choice) CS130 140 amp high output units for 80's and 90's GM cars and trucks or custom applications- Regularly $199, CLOSEOUT price only $125 GM or Ford (your choice) one wire 12SI units, Chrome or Polished (your choice) 140 amp output one or three wire hookup Regularly $209 Closeout price only $125 We have units to fit almost any GM or Ford application from 1965 - 1985

Every so often we get high output alternators from other alternator companies sent in for repair or testing. We have a policy of not dragging other alternator manufacturers names through the mud, but I will tell you that all of the units shown in this thread are from well known alternator manufacturers that regularly sell to the car audio market. We have been trying to get people to understand the difference in performance that can only be achieved by converting to a large case housing, so perhaps this will tell the story a little better... This unit was sent in to us because the customer thought that it was not working and needed repair. We put it on the dyno, and as it turns out there was nothing wrong with it. The customer thought that it wasn't working, because the output was so low at low RPMS, that the voltage wouldn't come up above battery voltage below about 1200 engine RPM. This unit came off of a 1997 Toyota Celica, and cost the customer $380 + shipping. The output curve is almost totally uselless for any vehicle driven on the street. It produced zero amps at actual idle speed on the Celica, and only 25 amps at about 800 rpm. Even at max. RPM, it barely produced 154 amps cold. It was built with a used rectifier, used brush holder, (about 75% life left) and used stock rotor. Here's another unit from another well known high output alternator company. It cost the customer over $600 + shipping and took 3 weeks to arrive!!! It is based on a large case Denso design, and was also built using primarily reclaimed parts, stock rotor, etc... It did OK at idle, about 125 amps by 2500 RPM alternator speed. This is comperable idle output for our 200 amp ProPower large case kit. Peak output was at 244 amps, it was sold to the customer at a 280 amp unit!! The unit above came off of a late model Jeep. Our 250 amp Rhino series unit for the same vehicle outperformed the Denso at ALL rpms, and is $100 less expensive. Our 250 amp Rhino series units usually dyno out around 270 amps with over 150 amps at idle

Bump. Here's a few more teasers just to give you an idea: 140 amp 12SI GM alternators = $94 shipped 200 amp 3G Ford alternators = $179 shipped 150 amp CS130D GM alternators = $125 shipped Many of these high output closeouts are less money than a stock replacement! All of them are made in the USA, 100% brand new, not rebuilt.

YES- We still offer free shipping for SMD members, anywhere in the continental 48 states. That makes us the lowest cost domestic provider for XS power batteries. thanks Matt

I have repied to all PMs. I have these closeout deals posted on multiple forums, so I can't keep track of posts in threads. If you want a price quote, please PM, e-mail, or call me. Posts in the thread will not be responded to. thanks! Matt [email protected] 1-888-MECHMAN

PMs replied The chrysler alts are only for pre 1985 models

PM sent

IF YOU WANT A QUOTE - PLEASE PM, E-MAIL, OR CALL ME. POSTS IN THE THREAD WILL NOT BE RESPONDED TO. We are currently liquidating all of our specialty alternators on hand. These are all 100% new units, with one year warranty. Prices are far too low to list, PM or call for best pricing. We have about 40 different styles for GM, Ford, and Chrysler- High amperage, lightweight, racing and street car applications. I only have 1 or 2 of each part number- Everything must go, we will no longer be stocking these 2008 spec units, so when they are gone, their gone! GM - CS144 , 12SI one wire, CS130, CS 130D, Valeo, AD244 Starting at $79 Ford - 1G externally regulated, 2G , 3G small case and large case, one wire, 4G , 6G, 150, 200 and 250 amp units for any ford vehicle. Starting at $89 1965 - 1985 Chrysler one wire upgrades, 90, 140 and 200 amp, starting at $99 1-888-MECHMAN [email protected]

Battery Isolators are a bad idea. You should never run your rear battery all the way dead anyway. It's hard on batteries, and hard on alternators.

We have CS series alternators with adjustable internal regulators, but all the other families of alternators need to have an external reg for adjustability.

I just got some more Powermaster 16 volt batteries back in stock, they have been sold out everywhere for a couple months now. Right now we have FREE shipping and NO handling charges. 1 -2 day ship time anywhere in the southeast. Give me a call at 1-888-MECHMAN We accept credit, debit or PayPal D1000 = $259 shipped S1000 = $259 shipped 1005 12/16 volt charger = $299 shipped 1004 16 volt charger = $199 shipped www.mechman.com

If your car idled at 1000 rpm you wouldn't need an overdrive pulley. Heck if it idles at 800 rpm, you wouldn't have a probelm. Your engine probably idles around 600 rpm in gear, which is why you only notice a dip in voltage when you hit the brakes. Like I said, it is a mute point anyway, we ship our units with the smallest reccomended pulley anyway. You can't go any smaller on a v-belt application. If your vehicle idles at 500 rpm, which is where many late model vehicles idle, and your OEM pulley ratio is 2.6:1 (which is also common) the alternator is only spinning 1300 rpm. By simply changing the pulley, you can boost that alternator RPM to 2,100 to 2,400 rpm, which is a HUGE difference in output.

No Problem. Your best bet would be our 250 amp Rhino series cS144 unit with adjustable voltage. They are on sale right now for only $399, and will give you a rock solid 15.0 volts, which will optimize the whole system. We machine the housing so that it bolts right into the stock brackets with only minor clearancing of the stock bracket. You don't want to run a CS130 small case, they are pretty much maxed out at 200 amps with TERRIBLE output at idle. The large case is the only way to go :hairtrick:

I am running an 80mm turbo on a 120,000 mile stock F150 motor, no problems whatsoever. Years back, I ran 200hp worth of nitrous on an 80,000 mile completely stock 5.0 for over 2 years, and that motor is still running strong swapped into another vehicle. I've helped work on at least 3 different completely stock D16s running well over 15psi for quite a while without any problems. Keep in mind that these are all vehciles that were being raced and driven hard every weekend at the track. All that matters is that you use good gas, run conservative timing, and that the motor isn't damaged to start with. 9psi is not that big of a deal on a stock motor if you use good common sense.

Why would that not be worth poop? Depending on the alternator, that can be a difference of 30 - 80 amp improvement at idle. I just realized that 8Duece's car is equiped with V-belt anyway. You can't put any smaller of a pulley on it than it already comes with. The overdrive pulley I have advertized in the other thread is for Serpentine belt applications only.

I offer a single large case conversion unit. It does 250 amps with 150+ amps at idle. I would also do the in-cab adjustable voltage control option so you can bump the voltage up for better amp efficiency under load. The whole pre-wired kit is $599 and is a direct bolt in. Thanks Matt

Yes it is. Thanks Matt

You can run 9 psi all day long on just about any STOCK motor, Hondas included. At that boost level, all that matters is that you have plenty of fuel available, and A GOOD TUNE. You will break the ring lands, or blow a head gasket on ANY motor, no matter what internals is has, if you run into detonation from a bad tune. Leave the motor completely stock, and spend your money on a good fuel pump, injectors, and tuneable fuel management system, such as AEM, CHROME, Megasquirt, or whatever. Anything that you can change timing and fuel curves in will work. If you are unsure of how to tune a standalone, take it to and expierienced tuner with a dyno, preferably one with an Eddy brake, so they can dial in some decent drivability as well. Matt

Our complete dual kit is on sale right now for $499 shipped!! That comes with a 250 amp Rhino series alt, pigtail, bracket, belt, idler pulley, and hardware. That is a screamin' deal for a complete kit. (Reg. $599 plus shipping) The Rhino unit that we include usualy dynos out around 270 amps so- you would have about 415 amps on tap- :hairtrick: Just give me a call, I have them instock and can ship today. 1-888-MECHMAN thanks Matt

Your crank pulley should be about 6.5" in diameter. Our ultra over drive pulley is 1.75" in diameter. 6.5 / 1.75 = 3.71:1 ratio. The only thing to remember, is that you might run into belt slip issues running a pulley that small on a 250+ amp alternator. The decreased surface area, and increased gearing makes it harder for the belt to grip an alternator that strong. You will need to run a slightly smaller premium serp. belt, and keep an eye on it to make sure that it isn't slipping under full load.

No problem, just call me on the 30th. thanks Matt

No, the CRX requires one of our custom machined units in order for it to be a direct bolt in. You could buy a Ford style unit 300 amp for $399 and make your own bracket for a CRX if you want. Keep in mind that the little 3 rib belt on a CRX will have a hard time gripping a 300 amp alternator. They typically start slipping at about 200 amps worth of load.