Mrbubbles00482

Alrighty then. Time too start looking into alts =/ Good 18v alts? I'm probably going to contact mechman first, thats where my 12v alt came from I bought a good while ago and I absolutely love it.

Damn..It really is a lot to think on..lol. Alrighty then, lets say I don't upgrade to another 8.1 and I just run one on 4 15's. I can run my single 170 amp alt in the stock location on too a small kinetik of some sort to run the car and my high end amps, then run 2 18v alts in my A/C and smog pump location for the back battery bank that the 8.1 will be on. 2 18v alts, and a good 6 16v batts will run the 8.1 fine. Thoughts on that?

Well I already have (3) Kinetik HC2000's. My A/C compressor is locked up, and the smog pump mounted right below it run off the same belt. I don't need A/c considering this is for show/comp, and I live in Arkansas where there is no inspection and the smog pump is not required. With some custom bracketing I can mount two more 12v alts right there, then just buy more kinetiks. That will give me a total of (3) 12v alts, and however many batteries I need (Station wagon has plenty of room...battery bank is not a problem at this point) That was my first idea, but then I thought of a 16v system so I decided to just throw it out there and get some views on it. (3) 12v alts sound better with a large battery bank?

Ok so I'm building my show/comp car and the electrical is one of the first things that needs to be done. From a build on here I saw, too my understanding if you use kinetiks triple post 16v batteries you can daisy chain the 12v posts together and then to another 12v battery if needed for your cars peripherals and your 12v portion of your audio system (high end amps etc). The car is an 87 oldsmobile 88 station wagon. I already have a 170 amp mechman alt that I can put on it, so I have the option of running the mechman 12v alt and a 16v alt for two separate changing systems, or just one 16v alt on the way I stated above. System will be for now (4) RD Alpha v.2's on a DAT 8.1 I will most likely upgrade later and add two more 15's and another 8.1 The shop I use to work for has 2 Kinetik HC16v batteries sitting up there that I could get pretty soon. What do you guys think?

Let's here it peeps that have bought from me =D

Alrighty that helps a lot actually. Thanks.

box is about 5 inches from the rear deck, in the 30's somewhere? Most likely no flare.

Bump from 3 pages back lol. So I scratched the Idea for the fiberglass rear deck. I felt like it would show out too much so the flat part will be cut to fit a little more, rounded over and upholstered in black to match the dash. The system has been decided though, which is what this update it about. Clarion DXZ765MP source unit (2) Sundown SAE 1200D's (2) DC soundlab lvl4 10's (1) Set of Kenwood 4x10's (1) Set of 3.5's (haven't decided on brand yet) (1) Sundown 50.4 (1) Hifonics MLX-100 Might throw in an EQ later on. Box will be 2.1^3ft tuned too around 37ish The hole trunk will be trim paneled out with the 50.4 mounted behind one on the left side of the trunk, and the 1200D's will be mounted under a false floor. Still gotta find room for the Kinetik HC2000 somewhere though, and figure out some kind of cover or something for the spare tire. Also gonna sound deaden the hole car. Decided to go with Second skin audio, there prices are good, and I've heard good things about them also. One SAE 1200D is already on its way, the other will be on its way Monday. 50.4 most likely the end of next week. The kenwood 4x10's have already been purchased and I need to find some 3.5's I'll be working more on the door panels this afternoon and I'll have pics up tonight probably.

TTT anyone?

Ok need some help. Max dimensions are 42 wide 10 tall and 12 deep. So 2.1^3 feet gross. Ported I wanna do external ports through the rear deck. I can do 1 4" round port for 39^2 inches of port area. at two cubes i need like 32^2 inches so that works out. Calculating frequency though, all my programs and the12volts calculator does it for internal port. Any help?

YGPM

Thats nice as hell bro. I just found a set of 4 hubcaps on ebay that are the same as the ones on the car now =] one more thing off the list.

Doesn't come with 4 of them, old rear deck had 4. This will have the stock 2. And yes everything will be stock EXCEPT the audio..GM factory 4x10's and 3.5s? Ummm no. I just picked up the 12 plastic interior panels from the junkyard from an 84 buick regal for 40 bucks. Same color and all and in mint condition pretty much. I need to find a set of oldsmobile hubcaps...one of mine is ripped open from some curb rash. I also scratched the fiberglass idea...I would rather have the stock look too it so that 3/4 inch MDF rear deck will be rounded over and wrapped in matching material too the dash.

Rear deck started today. 4x10 rings Layout In the car Glassing the recessed outside for support So...on to the next question, tilted or flat on the speaker rings? My first thought was to tilt them forward a little bit...but now I'm leaning towards laying them flat and then just glassing the hole piece to where the speakers are just raised. What you guys think? Oh ya, 36 2" chip brushes at harbor freight tools for like 9 dollars.

AngelDeLaMurte I'm usually on every night for at least 3 or 4 hours.

So the competing days are over this car. The hole purpose of this car was to be restored, its just the only one I had at the time. It was my grandmothers that she gave me when she went into the nursing home...and in her memory I will be restoring it just like it would come in 1982. Everything will be stock. Paint will be original color, I have all replacement emblems, vinyl top will be re-done soon, interior will remain the same color as it was. The only thing different will be that the interior plastic panels will be wrapped in matching material to the seats and carpet, updated audio (of course lol), the door panels will be sanded smooth and painted to match the upper door panel, and possibly an engine swap in the future. So here we begin with the panels. I'll be working on all four for the next couple of weeks, along with the rear deck to house 2 4x10's, and repairing the air conditioning routing behind the dash (just blows out the floor right now). I got quoted on paint today for me to paint the car. I'll be doing that in about 3 weeks or so when I accumulate the money..for a gallon of base, a gallon of clear, 2 quarts of primer, and all the tape and masking paper I need it will be about 390 for everything. In my earlier builds I wrapped the bottom half of the door to make it two tone, black and gray. The original plastic was horrible, after 25 years the top textured finish to the door panel just scratched off with your finger nail. Starting out I ripped off the suede, and broke out the dual tweeter pods in the front of the door and started going at it. Plastic really sucks to sand when you are trying to take off material...to rough and it melts =/ so 100 grit on medium speed was the way too go... This is what I have to work with... The busted out tweeter pods New sander =] Burnt up my cordless And after an hour and 3 sanding discs this was where I left it for the day =[ I'll start on the rear deck tomorrow...my fiberglass bone is starting to itch now that it is nice and warm outside =]

I have two of them. One went up in smoke about 3 weeks after I got it (blew a fet) and then the other the power supply went out in it (turns on and off ever 5 seconds or so) They put out massive power, but aren't to reliable. =[

My dads GMC Seirra had a similar problem. Fuel gauge would drop, raise, and be all kinds of spastic. We just used the trip meter for a while and then the fuel pump went out. Replacing it fixed the problem

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm most likely going to go with the Chevy 350. Gotta get some audio equipment sold first! lol

Ok..so here is whats up. I'm pretty burnt out on car audio...I will soon be selling ALL of my equipment to focus on restoring my car in my grandmothers memory (it was her car, she gave it to me when I was 15) Soooo, the hole car will be returned to stock as much as possible just like it would roll off the lot, with the exception of the headunit (unless I can find an 8-track replacement unit that is functional), the engine, and the plastic trim panels (they will be covered in matching headliner material because of normal wear and tear) What kind of engine would you all recommend? It currently has its original 4.1L 260 V8. Which absolutely sucks...I can't even get on the interstate with my car hardly because it doesn't have enough acceleration going down the on ramp =[ I don't want it to have a massive engine in it that will require a new rear end from the added torque/horsepower. But I at least want something that I will be more comfortable driving in traffic... So what do you all think?

Holy crap that sub is beefy. Good luck with the build!

I run knu Kollosus flex cable, and I've ran hyper flex also...Knuflex hands down.

I ran the Power Series PS1 on a Digital Designs 9918, 170 amp alt, two runs of 0/1 one extra battery and never dropped below 14.2 volts and it got down pretty hard core. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMUUlZ5gsdU There is a video of it. I don't think it does rated power, but it gets down for the money. If I still had it in I would have clamped it, but I tore everything out =[

Found two DD Z1's on soundpressure forums for 1100. What yall think?

I was planning on running them each at 1 ohm, and use the bridging module to keep them in sync...