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markcrnll last won the day on August 6

markcrnll had the most liked content!

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About markcrnll

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    Jackson, MI
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    Car audio, lifting, guns, gardening & billiards.

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  1. Well I'm at work right now but I suppose I would take an auto tech opinion over a car audio enthusiast like myself and if your idle output is as you had posted then I'd opt out for the alternator first also. Thank you for the info Backwoods! Props on the notes!
  2. Guess we'll have to agree to disagree... Just speaking from experience. I'd rather be able to demo at idle and you don't get anywhere even close to your maximum amp output from your alternator at idle. Lithium charges at an insane rate. For instance, I'm running a 250 amp alt on 160 aH of JY Power with 2 8k amps wired at .67. My voltage bounces back to nominal within 2-4 seconds after the beat stops, then immediately idles at 25 amp output. Lithium often times never drains even close to half way or even 1/4 of the way 9 times outta 10. Charging a dead agm is a whole different ball game, that will have your alternator charging and working the entire day because of different charging c rate etc. I'll probably catch alot of shit for this last part but you could even run a stock alt on 40 aH of lithium as it will top it off in seconds after the beat drops. But like I said, I've ran high output alt with stock battery and overall I was not happy at all for the reasons I listed, but I got by, just had to turn the music down every time I came to a stop sign. Self exciting alternators are a different story. You can use the alternator to it's full output even at idle but they are known to creep up into the mid 15s voltage wise which may or may not work well with OEM systems or head units. To be the honest your the first person I've ever heard recommend a high output alt over a spare battery as the first electrical upgrade... I may be wrong though. I look forward to hearing more opinions.
  3. Battery before alternator, always. I've ran a korean 2200 at .5 ohm with a stock battery and 250 amp alternator before and I would be good going down the highway or the road, but as soon as you come to an idle or neutral gear while going full tilt on the music it was mega voltage drop, like 11.5-13 volts almost immediately. So I guess if you don't demo at idle or wire below 1 ohm you could probably get by, probably. Good luck!
  4. Wow that's impressive for 1.1 ohm. This is literally my dream amp. I've been considering picking one of these up and wiring to .35 as my lowest rise is at 29hz rising from .67 to 1.39. Nice numbers and thank you for the clamp specs! I was reading one of your previous posts talking about only wiring to .35 for burps... You don't think you could get away with wiring .35 for music? Have you checked rise on other frequencies? Just curious.
  5. How come when I upload pictures to my build log some of them are "white out", like a white square where the picture would normally show. It appears that when that does happen it tends to be toward the bottom of the page that is being viewed. No trouble uploading... When you click on the white out photo is goes to a link that shows the photograph enlarged, just fine. I've checked on a couple different desktops and also with my phone browser and they all show the same photographs whited out where your forced to click on them if you want to view them. Not sure if I explained this right does anyone recognize this problem? One example would be the first page of my build log in the group "Member Rides & Builds" titled "Mini Monster 6 12s on 16k in a hatchback". A bunch of photos at bottom are white out. Thanks guys!
  6. Good morning bass heads! I'm here today to get ideas for reinforcing my hatchback lift gate. Please, personal experiences ONLY. What are the best ways of reinforcing your hatchback or lift gate? I know this is normal for SPL cars but just looking for the best way to go about it. Ever since I eliminated roof flex and windshield flex it has all moved to the hatchback and it gets pretty violent. I already have 3 layers of 80mil deadner and am open to putting more on but I just don't feel like that is going to give me the results I'm looking for. I'm leaning toward expanding foam at the moment which I'm not positive that will make a huge difference either. I'm open to pretty much anything though from steel bracing to cement to reinforcing the latch mechanism... I'm not worried about rattling as the deadner has done pretty well with that. It's just as soon as I go below 35hz the hatchback jumps out what appears to be over an inch and a half. This is a one piece lift gate with a non opening window with tempered glass on top half. Thanks guys!
  7. Those amazon meters top out at 130 dB. Even stock electrical will get you over the 140dB mark. I would get your hands on an SPL meter that reads above 130dB first, then look into those box specs, port area to be specific and modify if possible.
  8. Meanwhile I got started on the head unit, everything 4 channel related, all my mids and highs and my doors. Ran all new wiring, wasn't about to use factory wiring for anything... Probably the toughest part of this was snaking those damn wires threw the door jam gasket lol. After trying for about a half hour I lubed her up with some silicone lubricate spray and she slid right threw no issues
  9. Next, Brad moved onto the boxes. I came to him with some pretty unorthodox requests... I wanted to be able to remove the box down the line without having to disassemble the box itself. Due to the size and shape of the vehicle there wasn't a design in the world that would allow me to have a box made for 6 12's aeroported that would be able to be put in and out of the vehicle without complete disassembly. So what I decided was to have him make was 3 separate, basic, rectangular identical boxes that could be placed into the hatchback one at a time. Then bolted together and bolted to the frame of the car. I did not want a full wall (I'm old fashion and like to look over my shoulder when switching lanes) even though it is a technical wall. I like to call it an illegal no wall. I was slightly limited on depth, and quite limited on width being we only had 39" for three 11 3/8" cutouts. He was able to make the design work without cutting corners on net volume or port volume. He also added a few features to give a better look then just a simple rectangular box. A 20 degree angle on the driver wall facing the front which made the face of the wall and the seats run parallel along with a 3" 45 degree panel on the top back corner to hold all my bolt terminals. Nothing special but I was impressed compared to the shape/ design that I had initially approached him with. My main priority is demos and bandwidth first and foremost. I enjoy metering also but short of building a forth order I had to pick one or the other. I'm a sucker for a mean demos and nasty hair tricks. But damn... who doesn't want a 160??!! Time to get started!
  10. Forgot to mention my trip to Menard's for wood and supplies. 4 sheets of birch, wood glue, screws, expanding foam, spray adhesive and a few other things... $375. Toward the end of this log I will post a list of all expenses for this build as I think it's something a lot of bassheads overlook when they see/ hear their first LOUD system and say "I want that!" lol. I thought I was out of the water after purchasing several thousands of dollars equipment for the build. Little did I know how much the build process it's self would cost for materials etc. It definitely isn't cheap to get loud.
  11. With a good foundation started for my build it's time to head out to Brad's shop and let him get started on everything wood. Meeting Brad came at a perfect time. Carpenter by trade and SPL enthusiast at heart, it was a perfect match for what I lacked experience in. He just so happened to be local also which allowed me to be out there everyday working hand and hand with him having a say in every step of the way. We started out with a solid floor foundation for the boxes to be mounted onto. I went with 3/4" birch for everything wood related. He made a nice profile cutout that conformed to my interior nicely. Very tight fit. Then made a circular cutout to give access to my fuel pump in the event that it ever needed to be serviced down the line. From there we bolted her straight down to the frame and filled the spare tire area underneath full of loctite expanding foam.
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