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markcrnll last won the day on April 23

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About markcrnll

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    Jackson, MI
  • Interests
    CNC machining, car audio, lifting, guns, & billiards.

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  1. Thank you. I got the speaker equipment settled on and purchased. Midbass pod designed, bullet tweeter locations picked out... now alls I have to do is figure out how I’d like to stage these UN 10s in my doors. Sealed, ported or open back/ infinite baffle. Seems like I can’t really go wrong with open back I’m thinking? Seems like I should be making this decision based on the QTS of the speaker but I’m not bringing that up anymore I think it pushes ppl away from answering questions sometimes. It’s crazy how many places and people I’ve reached out to that are unable to help on the whole front sta
  2. So I guess maybe I’ll try this. I’ll throw some of my thoughts out there as a conversation starter. I think the midbass would do well from 60hz to 150hz. Reason for HP is my subs sound good up to around the 50s. They’re tuned to 29hz and peak at 33hz. Reason for LP is...1) manufacturer recommended 120hz. 2) my UN10s are more then comfortable that low. Cutting my UN10s off around 150hz seems pretty appropriate and should allow them to see their upper limit on power handling no questions asked. I thought it may be a good idea in catering the midbass LPF to the UN10s preferences if th
  3. I’m still looking for opinions and preferences on crossovers. Along with direction on how y’all may recommend staging my UN10s. I’ve posted this on a couple of Facebook groups also and not getting any responses. No help or suggestion is too small please and thank you. All my drivers are purchased. Been practicing my my glassing, molds, gelcoat and bondo/ fairing recipes for the project here in 3 weeks (glass and gelcoat cabin and wall along with front stage makeover). Would someone be kind enough to chime in and help a bass head out please
  4. 8” Taramps 7 Driver Bass1k2 This is what I have I mind for Mid bass. Going in rear, NOT part of doors.
  5. Reaching out today to get some direction and suggestions on my 3 way front stage setup. It's going in the "Mini Monster" (2008 Toyota Yaris hatchback in the build logs section). Mid bass running on Taramps MD3k, midrange on Taramps MD3K and tweeters on my old Taramps 800x4. All hooked up to a DSP. Though open to suggestions, I am pretty set on picking out my mid bass and midrange drivers. Not sure on the the tweeters just yet as they are the least of my concerns but open to suggestions on those. So here's what we're working with. Mid bass: 2 Taramps 7 Driver 8" mid bass drivers. FS
  6. It's going to be a good summer for bass! Been super busy started up school again last year, been working a lot and running a nursery so I haven't been able to update much. Finished out the season last year with a 156.91 on the glass door open and a 157.52 in the kick. My peak went from 39hz before I broke the glass and added the pole and other re enforcements to 34hz. Over the winter I pulled my equipment and sold my battery to buy a different lithium chemistry. Never doing Lifepo4 again... Also decided to switch from (2) MD8k to (2) MD12k, Lifepo4 to EH5, added a DSP, switched over
  7. The peak in my Toyota Yaris went from 39hz in August 2020 to 33hz in October 2020. No I did fiberglass my roof and add a stripper pole which was a large contributor. However I wonder how much of this was from the weather change like you guys are talking about... my lowest impendance rise was at 29hz and 48hz which is similar to yours I wonder if that had a lot to do with our Toyota Yaris cabins...
  8. Anyone got anything else? I know some of you guys out here demoing 162+ got the knowledge on this subject that I need.
  9. So I've been doing all kinds of research and watching tutorial videos on polyester resin, epoxy resin and pour foam. I'm doing an up incoming revision on my audio build (reference pics of current state of build can be found in Mini Monster build log). I will be walling my already "illegal no wall" and using pour foam on both sides of the enclosure between the stunt wall and the speaker wall and plywood on the roof. My plan is to make a resin filler to put radius' on all my corners/ angles for the transition from the wall to the roof. Then resin the roof, the wall and over top all my filler bef
  10. You would divide by the lowest voltage you see at full draw. That will give you closer to your peak amperage then dividing by your average or charging voltage. When voltage goes down, amps go up. Amperage = heat. Hints why fuses are based on amps instead of volts. Hope this helps some.
  11. Being that we have the same car, that's very interesting how much of a difference in where our windows broke between our cars due to..., most likely the difference in port direction. At the end of the day I think the weak point is the super thin steel on the body that causes this excessive flexing in the older model Toyota Yaris' like ours. When I was welding my steel lithium box into the wheel well I could barely weld on it because it was so paper thin the steel kept trying to melt away... I swear most of the body steel on our cars are only 1/32" thick... It's funny you say that about the win
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