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markcrnll

SMD Bronze Member
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markcrnll last won the day on August 15

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About markcrnll

  • Rank
    120db

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Jackson, MI
  • Interests
    CNC machining, car audio, lifting, guns, & billiards.

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  1. Anyone got anything else? I know some of you guys out here demoing 162+ got the knowledge on this subject that I need.
  2. So I've been doing all kinds of research and watching tutorial videos on polyester resin, epoxy resin and pour foam. I'm doing an up incoming revision on my audio build (reference pics of current state of build can be found in Mini Monster build log). I will be walling my already "illegal no wall" and using pour foam on both sides of the enclosure between the stunt wall and the speaker wall and plywood on the roof. My plan is to make a resin filler to put radius' on all my corners/ angles for the transition from the wall to the roof. Then resin the roof, the wall and over top all my filler bef
  3. You would divide by the lowest voltage you see at full draw. That will give you closer to your peak amperage then dividing by your average or charging voltage. When voltage goes down, amps go up. Amperage = heat. Hints why fuses are based on amps instead of volts. Hope this helps some.
  4. Being that we have the same car, that's very interesting how much of a difference in where our windows broke between our cars due to..., most likely the difference in port direction. At the end of the day I think the weak point is the super thin steel on the body that causes this excessive flexing in the older model Toyota Yaris' like ours. When I was welding my steel lithium box into the wheel well I could barely weld on it because it was so paper thin the steel kept trying to melt away... I swear most of the body steel on our cars are only 1/32" thick... It's funny you say that about the win
  5. At the time of the window breaking, no, I didn't have a stripper pole. Barley knew what they were used for in car audio or even seen one around. I messaged Milenko the next day and he gave me 3 people to talk to and get advice from who had been threw what happened to me many times. After talking with them they all suggested a stripper pole and a couple other ideas. That 's when I decided to jump right in balls to the wall on that brace. I started it 4 days after cracking my window and finished it the following day. Being that I'm dragging my feet on doing this build log I'm trying to backtrack
  6. Wow with all that cone area should be pretty loud! Looks good so far!
  7. I am having a lot of issues with the pictures on my build log also. About 15% of all my photos are "white no picture". I've tried uploading from different browsers, different devices, deleting and reuploading, nothing... I talk to somebody on the tech boards last month, can't remember if it was the administrator or forum go-er but they weren't able to help either... It's weird...
  8. The windshield freakin went!!! It wasn't even an enjoyable experience. We just looked at each other, he got super excited and congratulated me while I got dumb founded, shocked and basically pretty upset about it... I looked down at the meter, which was on peak hold and had freshly been reset within a couple seconds of it going. It read 153.89 dB at 29hz. Both Brad and the SSA meter as my witness otherwise I don't think anyone out there would possibly believe me that I sent my windshield at a measly 153 dB. It didn't take long to realize there wasn't going to be no full tilt until mini monster
  9. So this is about the time that we got all the trim and paneling back on, got the headliner in and put the passenger seat back in. I can't begin to explain to you the feeling of turning it on for the first time... Initially it was just a sigh of relief seeing all of my connections are right. Then it was on to tuning. So this is about the time I started slacking on taking pictures. After a long week of hot sweaty work sun up to sun down I was ready to start doing some testing, logging some data and more testing. The period of time on the build has been roughly 6 or 7 days up until this point of
  10. So now that we got a lot of the time consuming things out of the way we moved onto my beauty panel and my electrical. Brad really wanted me to take the beauty panel all the way up to the roof and wall it completely off but I was hell bent on leaving a space for me to see out my back window and staying in no wall class if I did decide to compete. Looking back on things today I wish I would have walled it into a big rounded forward facing kerf going into the roof. But I'm still definitely happy with how things turned out this way. I still might do that down the line though. Everything turned out
  11. Large amount of cone area, many drivers and a 4th order are all ways to get more spl per watt and also the route that I'd probably go if I wanted to accomplish what your after...
  12. So I figured I would update this topic on what I decided to do. Further research indicated that the left and right rca preout signals are different, obviously, but the VAST majority of the time both the front and rear signals are identical. I did verify this specifically after talking to about 3 representatives of the manufacturer of my head unit. It was more common back in the day to have different front and back signals when headunits commonly had only 2 rca preouts; front and back... You would run the subwoofer and/ or larger cone speakers in the rear so the low pass was set a bit lower or
  13. Who here is running EH5? What are your thoughts? Been doing a lot of research on the best chemistry for my circumstances and from what I can tell there isn't a cell on the market that is more energy dense and has higher amp output per aH then the EH5 cells. What do you guys think?
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