raytard

from my experience, t-lines arent for those that wanna push gobs of power through their subs. its kinda sorta like freeairing it. maybe trade/upgrade for nicer 15's? that wont sweat it if you wanna throw power at em?

do a full mini trucks are so 90's (no offence to people with minitrucks but yall already did all the cool shit. i know this because i've seen a mini truck with suibo's and that was when i knew a new fad had to come about) time to lay out some fullsizes. and do something unique. not suibos.

check everything powers and grounds and connections and fuses (all of them, from the deck fuse to the inside fuse to the underhood fuse) if none of that solves it, go buy a pioneer

also, keep in mind, a lot of really high end passives have ALOT of equalization and tuning built into them. Things like crossover points, slopes, and tweeter cuts/gains are normal, but alot of them feature circuitry and parts to change frequency response and impedance spikes see that crossover? that does a whole hell of alot more than high pass/low pass the stuff you can do with a crossover is pretty amazing when you get into it, especially flattening out response curves without any additional equalization. Some high-end HT guys design and build their own crossovers with the help of diagnostic devices that measure in room resonances and frequency responses and make the crossover compensate for abnormalities. upside of that is, any lay person can zero out all their settings, and have a textbook perfect flat response. but then again, you could do it all active, and use equalization and processing to make it happen. and for most of us running active is the most control or quality you can get. sometimes things as silly as dropping the crossover point 1000 hz, making it 3-rd order, and making the woofer 1-st order will take your tinny, harsh components and make them into warm smooth ones. passive isnt an across the board power handeling issue, some passives can handle thousands of watts in PA setups. passive isnt less accurate, only more difficult to adjust or tune. active is done before the amp, passive is after, and that is the technical difference. active allows each component (i.e. each woofer, each tweeter, each subwoofer) to be run on its own channel. this usually means more power (since now you are using 2x as many channels of your amp) and more tuning (since you can, for instance, turn the gain of the passenger side tweeter up just a hair if you wanted)

im bored http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwar...product=500513# haave fun. put the network one on a thumb drive andd transfer it over, and then get on yours, go to that website, and start d/ling and isntalling

you dont need a disk, the computer comes with it, but if you lose it youre kinda screwed UNLESS the website for your computer hosts a driver disk online. go to the hp site on a working computer and see whats available in the support section. if you cant find it, you have to do it the hard way find a program called "everest home edition" i think the website majorgeeks.com or something still hosts a mirror of it (its a free edition) i'm assuming your network driver isnt working, so download it on someone elses and transfer it over with a thumbdrive (windows should recognize usb) once its installed and runs, it will be able to tell you EXACTLY what is installed on your pc. some things to find for starters; Network card (most important, after this you can get online and start doing things without a thumb drive, may be called ethernet, wired or wireless) audio card-if its a laptop, probably some sort of intel integrated. if you can go to youtube and hear music you prob dont need it video card (alot use an intel 9 series integrated, if you cant get your screen to the right resolution, you gotta find the driver. wrong resolution=icons and text are way bigger than they should be, and you cant change it from control panel>display) after that feel free to track down all the random stuff for your media buttons, webcam, etc.

he didnt say where in the cavy....maybe he wants a btl to be riding shotgun try for the 18, see if you can get a nice box in there positioned well with plenty of airflow. if not do the 15. a 15 done really well will be louder and sound better than an 18 done badly any day, and everyone on this forum will verify that.

most cars are louder with the windows down (to the ear atleast) and idk about silverados specifically, cuz noone wants to do anything other than an under/behind the seat box, and a single slim 12 shoved under/behind a seat will always sound like a single woofer wedged in a tight space. its just that some stuff doesnt work well. Big sub up boxes in older jettas for instance(like a 4-15 box, even with 3kw it was....eh). And some stuff works better than you'd expect, like 2 12's back, side port,40hz, in a blazer. I dont know the exact reason, but i do know that a cvr box in that truck makes most everyone happy. oh, sub up port to passenger side in a ranger was painful loud, but 2 10's and 300 watts. It was a box and amp i literally saw and heard installed 40 times that week cuz we were blowing it out, but in that truck it was astounding. op, try some stuff. turn the subs up or forward. borrow a bigger amp and see what that does. recheck the settings on your amp and deck (make sure lpf's are 80hz or so, if u get em low enough it basically just decreases volume, things like that). pop out each sub individually and make sure they are both working. Sometimes something dumb happens like a tinsel breaks, and the sub moves cuz its in the box with the other one, but in essence you have half the power to half the subs.

some cars get loud for no reason. I sat in a cobalt with 2 10in sealed kenwoods off a 400watt amp and it was as loud as my 2-12's with 1200 watts. i hate to admit it, but something about those subs and that box and that trunk and that car just clicked and made it beat. and buicks unfortunately never seem to be loud cars unless something drastic was done. Same with older montecarlos and a couple of lexus's. If you want to get louder just go bigger, more power, more subs, better box. it may seem like it should be louder, but sometimes your car just screws you

and i thought i was the only one that went out of the way to get clothes that match my car, lol. or rocked shoes that match NOTHING in my closet. but im a big fan of stuff like that. You'd be surprised how many people ask about my teal/red/blue kicks with sparkly blue laces and accents, lol

check ur amp ground? this will sound dumb, but the outside of an rca is a ground, and on some amps its tied to the chassis of the amp. (ground to ground, which doesnt usually matter...) but sometimes if the amp is drawing a lot of current (like you wired it to .5 ohms accidentally) it will draw ground through the rcas and then through your h/u. obviously this extra current and extra noise associated with current going through rca's, and through the h/u, its chassis, etc can cause some weird stuff (like blowing the dioded connection on the ground of pioneer rca's, or melting ground wires for the deck, or something farther back in the system, so on and so forth.

knicks starburys?

saw these at the local quickymart, if you thought a shirt with a speaker was cool..... and http://www.tqualizer.biz/....i saw them on thinkgeek a while back but they only show one. Illest shirt by far, lol

i thought it was required that you test it out and p.s. walmart sells for like 7 bux a tennis racket looking thing. hand held bug zapper. its a couple thousand volts of pure fun. of course i shocked everyone i could reach and myself, but it kills bugs like a friggin wonder. back in the day we dismantled one of those clicky-pen shockers. with the help of some tinfoil and spray glue we put 2 strips (pos and neg, on the same side so it shocked your palm, not shorting across your chest and killing you, lol) on the handle of an xbox controller and wired it into where the rumble motor was supposed to be. Fighting games were never so much fun. DOA rumbles a bit when you're hit and it was cool to actually get pain from it. Games like halo were unplayable cuz it rumbed so much when you shot or drove and ruined the "loser gets shocked" effect. i wish i documented how we did it.

cardomain makes it look like 3800 watts of massive power off stock? alt and 2 yellowtops batts are just a reserve, once their drained the voltage drops. if the alt cant charge faster than the amps draw current, you'll run into voltage issues

send me one, i'll paypal you the cash for shipping, and i'll figure out how to best make it work in a car and tell you everything you need to know.

is this like a prefab box, or a custom box that just so happens to be kicking around that is right? remember that dc's like a relatively large port. And personally i'd tune a bit lower, but 38 should be fine. just be careful playing CnS music

fuse ftw after a breaker pops the first time, the next time can either take more or less current, so you can get into a position where it either pops all the time, or just never pops. its a safety device at the end of the day, so why not be as safe as possible and just throw a nice fuse in there?. I'm at the position now where if i was to short out my rear busbar i'd pop about a half dozen 250a fuses, but i'd rather go buy 6 new fuses than run the risk that one of those breakers not popping.

the first thing i thought when i read the origional post is "wow, hes gonna cut that thing apart and destroy it" leave it alone, all that ducting is there to duct air to where its needed and away from where its not. I'm not calling you dumb, but if you're somehow outsmarting an entire team of computer scientists and engineers, the world is in trouble. A mass produced laptop like that isnt some guy throwing a bunch of crap into a case and then copying it millions of times over, a lot of that stuff is custom designed and machined, and entire teams spend months or years developing every last little piece and testing it over and over again. if there is tape there, its there for a reason. if there's plastic there, it has a purpose. Theres not some guy puffing on the herb going "hey, we should make 900,000 of these little plastic duct thingys and just pop em in every laptop we make"

theyre remarkably close performance wise as is the shiruken bt-120, and you can find those for about 50$ less than either one of those. i got them through a brick and mortar and they were heavy enough to make freight (some extras were ordered too, i just waited for the store to need to restock...aka shipping was silly cheap, like 10 a battery or something

broke the box maybe? pop the sub out and give each wall a nice solid whack with your hand or rubber mallet and see if any makes a nice extra noise. sometimes the wall only resonates at a certain frequency and only makes a noise with that note

ive seen alot of people rig their cars to rattle more, and ive had guys pissed that their cars didnt rattle more as far as vehicle flex, you dont want it. my door skins tore off the door braces and make this horrible noise now. something in the back of my roof broke and makes a horrendous clapping metal sound on any not over 40hz. but if i open the window, you can see my bumpers/hood flex, lol. and my trunk rattles like it always did even though the trunk is completely sprayfoam sealed from the cabin. i just cant win. moral of the story, flex is only for youtube.

their both great i'm partial to rockford amps, but kicker does have its own perks(built like a tank, does their power at 2ohm, adjustment knobs are all on the top so it makes tuning in some installs a whole hell of alot easier)

it should be fine, i've never ever seen a screen freeze or melt. hell, i rarely even see a screen go out period. dont worry about it, but afaik dual is gone, so when it dies its time for an upgrade.

search google for ohm's law its 4th grade math, and something they teach in highschool, but noone learns anything in school anymore besides how many grams are in an ounce