raytard

power acoustik, just take the light green wire (should be labeled parking brake wire, either with a tag or in the manual, sometimes was a pink wire, most had light green) and ground it...either to your black line, chassis, or the unit itself even pioneer non gps can be grounded with a switch, as can clarion and alpine...pioneer nav's a pin has to be moved and grounded from the normal harness to the rca harness in a specific blank spot, avic 411 has info on it...older n'series had a sticker you had to peel up and flick a switch underneath, z1/2 needed a special update disk to disable it. jensen is that code mentioned before phase linear is the same code (both made by audiovox) kenwood i think is just grounding the light green

the only set of alphasoniks I ever heard were kinda...eh...nothing special at all, not loud, not especially clear or high quality...seemed like the most generic setup i ever heard

cat 6 is basically cat 5 with an extra pair of wires in it and 99% of cat cables are twisted pairs, so you should be good, twisted pair is what makes all the difference with rca's

its twiested pair and smallish guage so it shouldnt pick up interference too well may just be some really good rca's at the end of the day, like some stinger stage 3 shit.

i loled when i saw a comma in the port area...doin it real big but whats that at? 40hz? 50hz??

honestly, dont downfire if you can avoid it and for kickers, you can always tune a little higher (and a big car like that will drop your tuning, not raise it) 34 is fine, so is 36...you can even get away with 40 like kicker reccomends so long as you are smart with the volume on songs that have really low bass (think "i love your girl" 28hz type stuff) t-line isnt any good for kickers...its alot of work and tuning and the box will be massive compared to a ported box (for a single 8in mine was 49.5x8.5x12) and hate to be a parade rainer too, but even with a steady job putting 4 digits of spending money in my account every week, i cant afford 4lvl5's amps and the stuff to run them....start small and work your way up, especially if you're 15 and havnt had anything yet, there's not many people out there with a setup that big (and the nuts on this forum that do it represent that .001% of the population crazy and skilled enough to do it)

not worth the trouble of a pissed off, embarased, drunk roomate coming back and going ape shit and coming after you or destroying your shit

i'm paranoid enough as it is...leaving my stuff sitting in a school parking lot overnight...knowing aywhere that I turn it up, someone will hear it, and that my car is distinctive enough to stand out...sometimes there just isnt anything you can do besides hope

once the magic smoke gets out its really hard to get back in but, if you have an egg ready, it may make a sweet youtube video, lol chances are itll just pop and go in protect, or just not turn on....and if the protect sucks or is bypassed, itll blow the eff up

its not that bad...i drove a rhd 3000gt back in the day (imported from japan by some guy), and as awkward as it was, its still easy...clutch brake gas are in the same spot, and tranny shifts the same, just with the left hand

looks like stock ND alts with overdrive pully? i'd say save up for a real one

i'm bored, so now im doing research step one, buy car and get it sent here, like website you had before tarriff is liek 2.5% of car worth, plus broker fees, and custom bonds (idk how much that is) epa complaince testing is approx $5000 PLUS parts needed to make it compliant (obd2 computer system, catalytic converter, etc) (if you cant get a letter from the manufacturer stating the car is already epa compliant) then have to prove that rhd car passes us crash testing...either a letter from manufacturer or another $5000 and 9-12 months to petition that it is crash worthy random stuff needed for compliance : the minimum requirements for the speedo is that it shows both KM and Miles and that the odometer is labeled that it is in KM, " DOT" needs to be on, and might need replacing, would be lights and lenses, windows, tires and rims and brake lines. Air bags and shoulder belts. A third seatbelt is needed in the rear if it could seat three people. "Objects are Closer Than They Appear" needs to be on the passenger side mirror. It will need a high mounted third brake light. The bumper needs shock type supports & steel reinforcement beams and the doors also need steel impact beams inside. The power windows need to be inoperative when the key is in the off position mabe more stuff, dependant on car, maybe less soooo like i said you're probaably back into the 15k-40k range in importing/compliance/registration fees alone, ontop of the car's cost dot says theres like 1000 cars imported to us from japan since 03....gee, i wonder why

you really want a 40 thousand dollar used accord?

x2 ktowns, they spend the money to send dozens of each model here for emissions testing, safety and crash testing, and general inspection for us guideline adherence. its not as easy as you'd think to get your hands on those hot rare jdm cars...why do u think everyone over here gets jdm body kits and not jdm cars....?

but you cant use it in the US!!!!! its fine in CAD, they have different rules about their cars! read up at http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/CARS/RULES/IMPORT/

we dont have the same rules in america unfortunately...which is why some importers import to canada first, register it there, and transfer it here all sneaky like, idk what the legal thing is but i know that was one of the ways they did it...

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/CARS/RULES/IMPORT/ rules, regulations, registered importers, etc... dot approved registered importers, good luck getting it registered otherwise....those are the people to contact for real prices on the car you want edit:wrong link

but realize that is a car shipped to cali, unregistered....thats just the "shipping" cost, no exchange rates or finding a seller in japan, a person to transport it from them to the container, noone to get it from cali to you, and no registering.... buy yourself a second hand porsche, its way cooler than a stock 4 banger from japan edit: i looked into it back in the day, motorex charged like 15-20k to import a skyline and get it registered, ontop of the price of the car, and it was about the same for evo's and silvias and it would still be in cali....

"import" tax is like 15 grand in most cases so look around for a normal american version car. afaik motorex (now out of business) paid the cash to get like dozens of japanese spec cars, and run emissions tests and crash tests to be able to import some cars (notably skylines) and retrofit them for us roads what you kinda have to do now is get the car shipped here in pieces, reassemble it, and register it as either a kit car or a show car...both of which have some hoops to jump through and problems with everyday use (like mileage limits or proving the historical nature of the car or blahblahblah) and will eat up that 15 grand fast considering the disassembly labor, packing, shipping, customs, taxes, reassembly, etc for my money, i have a thing for hachiroku (ae86....basically 86/87 corolla hatchback...gts...hell yea) theyre light as hell, rwd, and a blast to drive with a little work silvias are all sick, but you can find the sx counterparts here and while rhd is cool, the price aint worth it to me i'd personally get something that isnt available here in the us, like an asl garaiya...if i had the cash, no idea what that would run i've heard of some people getting them shipped to canada and then brought here somehow, like registered there and then driven here and reregistered, which i guess flys in some states, but idk

father isnt the man who busts his load in the mom, father is the man mature and responsible enough to take care of, provide for, and raise the child...and that appears to be you If he were older, I would say explain the situation and let him decide, but seeing as he is only 6, i'd really think it best he just never knew what a fuck up his real father is until he was old enough to wrap his head around it, and visit him in jail if he wanted to. Those few monitored hours or minutes before he goes away could just as easily be done years down the road, not like the guy has a full social schedule.

that mechman "2500" watt thing is a bit of an overstatement...I'ive kinda been told that you should have about 10 times the CCA as your amp(s) draw so a 2000 watt amp with 220 amps of fusing should have a battery(s) rated at 2200cca, so as not to tax them too heavily in operation basically you should be fine, especially with the alt and dual runs (super especially if you busbar those rear batts), just butting in on that d925 being cool for 2500 watts

yea, wtf is that? and is that a little interstate battery? and that amp is like 1500 watts, 3k is if you strap them, lol

ooohooohooo track down some solo x 10's and do a t-line with em aint seen that shit before, now have ya (yes they make solo x 10's...mmhmm 46 pound 10's)

strap on the lollerskates...fist vid...he has square and round ports...square top circle bottom...holes cut in the box...you can see its just through the face and empty inside, look like a minute in as he switches the camera between subs aaaagggghhhhhh never learn.... edit: maybe not, second vid you can see a port kinda, but kinda cant, idk...regardless, 4 2x2 ports is way too small for 4 cvr's...and are those like cheap home surround sound speakers ontop of the box?

stand on tire only way i can think of, besides opening the door and standing on the rail/floor/seat and doing it upside down