Forevrbumpn

damnn, been waiting weeeks to se this... nice job. Clear coat that bed liner When I use bedliner, I clear coat it a few times, it actually keeps the scratches down, and brings it to life... but pretty sick man, I like it

Damn the suspense!

Hell, I buy the $80 sale amp at frys electronics all the time to compete, when I do compete (crunch 1000 watt amp) and get 144-145 pretty easy, no need for cheater amps

Who here wishes we could start a new sound off org, based on different rules? I read earlier about meades box being an inch or 2 higher than window line, and that wouldnt be acceptable for DB Drag. Most people its hard to follow rules like this. Meade was called a Outlaw.... Damn, to bad Outlaw has already been used for a competition. How about this, No holds barred, only rule is, you have wattage catagories, walls, or no walls, 1 sub, or 20 subs, maybe even freq catagories- guess it would be similiar to IASCA/IDBL maybe 1-100 watt 101-499 watt 500-1000watt 20-30hz best score 30-40hz best score 40-50hz best score Bass Race Sound Q comp But I know I hate not haveing my hatch back interior intact, and being disqualified just to do some lousy burps. Or haveing no name brand woofers. Dumb rules if you ask me. I know there are thousands of people who just wanna wall of 8" radio shack subwoofers, power it with a $80 1000watt Pyle amp, and just do it, cuz they spent $250 all together, and maybe spend like $25 to play there ragedy ass system in front of 200 people for bragging rights to get a 125db score. I personally like to see highest db's per watt, like 140, with 250watts, 150, with 2000 watts, ect. I know it costs money, liscencing, ect ect. Maybe we can start somethin like this out here in Sac, since there are so many Bass heads like Meade, and me. Also something I would like to see, is a speaker record broken. Most speakers Ive seen in a car was in the 90's The Boss Equalizer demo truck, had something like 100 speakers, hella mids, highs, bass, and sub woofers... well, anyways, I willlet you viewers discuss this, I have had to many Sparks, and Tequizas, Iam being a post whore right now, and loseing my place in these big paragraphs....................

heres my Bi$h... 7month old shar-pei/mini lab... guess she wont get much bigger, (45lbs)but wish she did, would make a good gaurd dog. cuz shes all bark, and no BITE! Image181.jpg_thumb Image223.jpg_thumb Image156.jpg_thumb

sweet... talk about a tuff lookin box

I dunno whats better. I would say the atlas, specs seem better, and looks like a better build on the quality portion. My buddy loves the sub. And I finaly, Finaly, after 3-4 weeks after building the box, got to hear them at full power. Very musical, and below 30hz, is very strong, just audibly I would say flat from 40hz-30hz, and below 30 the rumbling can get painfully pleasing

ill meter you.....i told ya id do it when i had time i just couldnt do it that weekend you asked. If you really need to be metered get with me i may be able to squeeze you in on Saturday or somethin. later bro hahah... iight, cool... But dont laugh at my 250 home plate amp, and when I need to ask you for a 110v ext cord to power it up (no amp yet, only a test box ) message me if you think you have a few minutes this weekend

I see the resemblance, who is that girl? lol

copper bolts would be nice, but yeah, where would you get them? I was talking about brass bolts. We used them on a very highend home audio companies speaker boxes, speakers, and amps, as connection points between wires, ect. The best connection is, No connection at all... Solder would be the best way to connect things over bolts all together. Brass because its a soft, very low resistance metal- Meade, I see you have done your boxes with bolts, all I was saying is, that I have been doing bolts thru on boxes for a few years, ever since I worked that speaker manufacturer, and seeing how reliable bolts were over spring loaded terminals. And hell, when you can do brass bolts, useing brass bolts, nutts, and washers, for only $2 (about 4 terminals total) Hell, I seen someone on ROE useing wing nutts, cant find brass wingnuts, so for the past week, I used wingnuts as a fast connect/disconect over useing deep sockets Image231.jpg_thumb

I need this new box design metered Badly! anyone else in Sac with a term Lab? I have 1-10" VT Hammer pro with 250 watts, yes, just 250watts rms, but it "FEELS" louder than the 15" Kove Armegedon (144db at the time)I had in a 40hz T -line, with 500watts, but this box design is somethin new and radical in design. Iam hopeing this 10" is in the area of 142-145db, if so, I will jump up to a beefier 10" with a stronger built box. since the box wants to fall apart. Also, its in a s-10 blazer, so I should tune it a tad lower, like 34hz

I love Bass Box 6.0 pro, and LEAP/LMS programs :^ :-*

Actual underrated subs? the underdawgs? From what I have installed just in the past year, I would say the low line of Pioneer, the $99 premier 10" sub. I have installed lots of these, and I also have a buddy running about 4 of these claiming about a 145 in his 4runner. but a few others would be Memphis M3, the -M1 very underrated $105 10" which was named one of the best subs for 2005. As far as brands like DD, RE, Treo, companies like that, I think those subs are expected to perform excelent for the companies, and engineering behind them. Shouldnt even make it in the list of underrated subs. (unless only talking about power handling being underrated which I would DEFINITLY add Memphis Mojo Old, and newer M3 subs, which claim 750rms, and these subs can easily handle 3000 daily)

There is no way the subwoofer can be causeing that. Subwoofer uses all mechanical parts, if 1 fails, the rest of the speaker will fail, or the problem would be intermittent(tinsel leads), but something as a slow, or even fast drop in volumn would definitly be an amp issue, mosfets burning out slowly, getting to hot, half of the mosfets shut off, then cut back on when they have cooled off, have other subs you can swap out with? or an amp so you can be positive?

usually if a subwoofer requires alot of airspace, you can substitute alot of port area, X port length, OUTSIDE the box to compensate for air space. Its a pretty popular Db drag design, compact box design, with tons of port

Yeah, usually the spikes hold in good, I dunno bout the brass inserts, but the tnuts the spikes are cool, but sometimes the spikes bend, or they break away at the wood, in my personal experiences. If I could, Id tnut everything .

silicone, or wax works, but once you have 1 nut inside the box holding the ring term/washer on the inside portion of the box, and 1 nut outside clamping the bolt to the box, and the 3rd nut holding the outside ring term on, and washers, its Very hard to budge. Brass is soft, so it locks together well..... And I had No idea there would be this many responses from a little Terminal issue, Iam suprised, I was bored when I typed this up... But I definitly stand by the concept, and love useing them.

Honestly, gold by itself is a horrible conductor, but if gold is how you want to go, try gold plating copper, thats just about the best conducter you can make. Only reason terminals, ext are gold plated, is for corrosion resistance, and the copper for the actualy cunduction. Platinum is great, and chrome isnt great, but it works. Reason why I use brass, is because we used bras only bolts for a really highend subwoofer manufacturer I built for in the past, and when you have a $10,000-22,000 for just 1-12" sub and 1000wrms amp, and that company prefered brass over every other material for connecting points from the amp, to the sub, and silver enriched speaker, and sihnal wires, you gotta think of brass pretty highly, but go ahead, grab a volt meter, 3 matching bolts, try small ones, to get a better metering, like 3" long size 6 bolts, test with brass, stainless steel, and standard steel bolts. The brass will hold the lowest resistance. And a size 6 bolt, even that small will still be able to hold 440v, or 10,000 watts across it, before a circuit breaker pops, or amp frys And yeah, T-nuts is the way to go, epoxy those bad boys in place, and even wax the threads on the bolts, for a frame like a 18" Id go with 1/4-20 tnuts, or 5/16" before the back side of the t-nut starts gets in the way of mounting the woofer.

a couple more pics Image212.jpg_thumb Image214.jpg_thumb Image212.jpg_thumb

I decided to share an idea I use, when I build boxes for customers paying a few extra $$$ Its a really simple idea, but looks great when done right, and will outlive any terminal on the market for about $1.50-$3. I usually use a size 10 BRASS bolt, (depending on power, bolt size would vary with the size of speaker wire) with matching brass nutts, and washers. Brass is the lowest resistance metal around, so that means it will make excellent electrical connectors, wich alot of computers, tools, and just about anything you will find brass in it, when it comes to power supply. A great example is power drill batteries... Brass connectors, inside, and out. Okay anyways, here is a simple graph, and some pics. size 8 bolt/nut 16-14g wire size 10 bolt 14 gauge 1/4-20 12-10gauge 5/16 bolt/nut 10-8gauge each bolt will use 2 washers, and about 3 nuts Bolts should be about twice as long, and the wood is thick. I usually recess the terminal, by useing a simple wood block, about 3/4" of mdf, glue&nail to inside of box, paint it, after cutting a nice 3-4" terminal cup hole, and painting it black (rhino liner), drill the holes, mount the bolts, nuts, and ring terminals, and your ready to rock with some unbreakable, very low resistance , very high current custom terminals, and people love the look, and quality, and assume you took that extra step to make thier box better than the other guys box. Image230.jpg_thumb Image229.jpg_thumb Image228.jpg_thumb Image226.jpg_thumb

Hes just gonna pop out with somethin thats gonna amaze us all Iam sure :^

They have tried the flame, and the 100,000v shockers on security in europe, and even out there I believe it was banned. They had flame throwers shoot flame under the doors. Pretty scary stuff if your just accidentally getting in to the wrong car... lol

How the hell do you post them big pictures in here?

Finally, a pick of the installed box. Here it is. This is the pic, of the sub faceing to the rear, with the hatch of the vette' opened up. 750rms of Hifonics power, with a Valor deck, and a Hifonics pre amp. He says its so loud, its hurting his ribs, I have not heard it yet, but will have my chance this weekend when he rolls by. STA_1142.JPG_thumb

Man I love BassBox6.0... wish I had a newer version, think I will just pick up LEAP/LMS instead tho, over a revised speaker box program.