newls1

excellent, thats what I thought as-well, and that is the amp I have on my X-Mas list!!! Thanks for the re-assurance

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12202_...+ZXi+4408.html# http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9365_JL+Audio+A4300.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6884_M...io+TC4004.html# Looking a a decent amp to power my RF P162s door speakers. Not looking for the best, just something that will last a while, and sound clean while doing it. It will be a 4ohm load, so an amp with 50w + at 4ohm is needed..... Which of the above do ya'll like the best? I appreciate any and all input.

anyone?

I want to send a HUGE thanks to mazdaspl for the mockup of this box, total credit goes out to him for this. I want you all to comment on it, and give me the go ahead on it. I dont know how to get the stats for this box and was hoping someone can tell me this? What is the CUFT of this box, etc...? http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=box2ml0.jpg http://img366.imageshack.us/my.php?image=box22ax8.jpg http://img366.imageshack.us/my.php?image=box222pa5.jpg

Guys, been using 2 18"BL's for the last 4 months and enjoy the hell out of them and would like to upgrade to using 2 more (total of 4 18" BL's) Currently my box specs are 16CuFT with I think 112" of port (cant remember if that is accurate, accordman can verify this for me) I must redue the box as I hate the way it looks, as I installed truck bed liner on it, and it came out like shit and really bothers me. I figured while I was taking the "BASS" out of the truck for a while, I might as well go bigger this time around. I dont have much money, so this will take 2+ months to complete, but at least I will have a goal.......I want to "smack wiper blades on the windshield when completed!" Here is my current plan, (1) buy another US Amps MD3D (2) Install my second 145amp ACDelco alt and dual bracket assembly (3) Get a new box build going to complete this upgrade **And this is where I need ya'lls input** I have an 02 Tahoe, and still need 4 people to fit in my truck. Meade is able to use the back of his Tahoe with a (i think) 19CUFT box, but he is running WAY MORE WATTAGE than I will be using, so there for I will be fighting for airspace and room. What can I do? Could I setup a wall in the rear of the truck, would this give me the needed airspace, or could I still utilize a box design with all 4 18"s firing up, like my box now? Each 18" driver will be getting ~1200watts each. Anyone have pix of tahoes with rear walls, or a 4 18" sub box that can provide ample airspace for RMS wattage fed to the speakers. Thanks.

actually, the ~3000rms watts is the combined wattage for all my amps together, not just the MD3D. My issue is a voltage issue, and here is how I found out: I work at a Summit/Jegs type Hi performance parts store, and took out 2 Exide XRF-31D batts (AGM 1180cca 105AH batts) replaced my 2 puny HC800 with them, and the fucking bass was thru the roof, and my stinger voltage gauge never dipped below 14.1v. Batts made a huge difference. I guess the HC800 just dont have the capacity to sustain my MD3D, and MD43 amps. I am going to order a MLA module next paycheck, with the hopes of sustaining ~15v or high ~14.7+V's while bumping, and with radio on low, 15v+ can effectively charge my batts.......

ok, so what is my next step? MLA module, HO ALT, big batt,etc.....

Guys, I thought I have been going crazy this last week! I thought my issue was the simple case of "getting used to what you have" type of issue! but for the last week my stereo just hasnt been "hitting the lows" like it did. Please read on, and I'll explain my issue. 2 weeks ago I re-installed my 18" Fi BL's as they were sent to Fi for Recone. While my subs were out, I took the liberty of running a second run of 0ga power wire to my 2 rear batts (2 Kinetic HC800's), added 5 runs of 1/2 all thread in my box for added strength, installed the stinger digital voltage gauge, installed a 150amp (04) Tahoe model alt in my 02 Tahoe, etc........ During the MONTH I went without my subs, my electrical systems seemed perfect, and my 2 rear batts were charged completely as no power source was taking power from those 2 rear batts. When the subs came in, I very quickly installed them, and the Tahoe was fucking jammin! My steering wheel was shaking like crazy, my wiper blades were bouncing off the windshield, etc....... 2 weeks go by, and this past week I've noticed the stereo just doesnt sound the same anymore, and thought I was just getting used to what I had, you know what I mean?..... Well, tonight I went to my jobs warehouse, and decided to make the stereo loud, and try tuning the amp while fully loaded, and NOTICED THIS, While playing "ANY" song with a LOW BASS NOTE TO IT, the amp (MD3D) red protect light would illuminate, and everytime it did that, you could tell power was getting cut in half. The amp operates 100% and never shuts off EVER, and never even gets warm to the touch. Is my issue here simply not enough amps/volts to sustain 3000+ watts. Here is exactly what my electrical system consists of: 1. brand new acdelco 150amp alt 2. red top optima up front 3. 2 kinetic HC800 in rear (small batts I know) 4. BIGIII everything 0ga 5. 2 runs of 0ga to rear batts 6. Rear batts grounded to truck frame 7. 2 runs of 0ga to rear bat to other rear batt Thats really it for electrical. I was hoping this issue is electrical and not the amp. Would replacing the 2 HC800 batts with a powermaster D3100, and a MLA module help me out here? Please help me out here, this is really pissing me off in a very bad way. appreciate any input

Ok, your idle is 14.1V, but I bet you have low "AMPS" at idle. I'll bet that even though your still @ 14.1v @ 2500, your headlight will dim less, or not at all, cause @ 2500rpm, you alt is feeding some nice amperage.

Well, have you got your voltage readings yet?

Did you click the link in my thread?

I have 5 runs of 1/2 all thread

My vote goes out for a US Amps MD3D. Puts out more thne rated RMS watts (2000+ @ 1ohm) solid power, and looks like the "OLD SCHOOL" US Amps with there new shell

TO make a long story short, My first setup used screws, and they back out of my 3/4MDF. I can get 2-3 "re-tights" out of them, then the hole gets striped. On my second attemps, I decided to walk down my favorite isle in Home Depot, and found these ( http://www.wsusol.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=965 ) I tapped these in on the inside of the box, then used 1/4" 1-1/4 long all thread bolts, and the damn speaker was FINALLY secured in, and STRONG TOO!, I decided yesterday to go and check to see if the bolts loosened up, and only 2 got slightly loose, and got my screw driver, and proceeded to tighten them up, the first one got nice and tight, the second one is now just spining. The teeth on the one T-Nut is no just spining on the inside, so now there is no more way for it to "GRAB" when I tighten the bolt (you know what I mean) out of 8 bolts, 7 are very tight, WILL THIS BE AN ISSUE??? I guess what im asking is this: Does anyone know of a more secure way of holding a speaker down, so I'll never have to go thru this shit again. It isn't easy taking out a 16.04CuFT box with 2 18" BL's in it. This sucker is heavy. Im open for suggestions, and hopefully Home Depot has what ever you recommend. Thanks guys.....

2 things could possibly be the issue: (1) Get a DMM and first check to see if the alt is putting out the proper amount of voltage (I idle @ 14.5v, and 1800+RPM's im at 14.8ish) Your alt might not be putting out anything, so you might be running off striaght battery 12.6v, if so NOT GOOD! (2) Some high amp alts (200+AMPS) dont put out much at an idle speed (Some do, and some dont) so try this: Hold a steady rev of about 1500-2000rpm and try your light to see if they still dimm, if they still do, I think your issue may be what I stated in #1..... Also check the obvious....Fuses, fusible links, etc.....

I remember back 1-2 months ago someone asked this exact same question, and now I cant find that post. I just ordered the Stinger digital voltage meter, and am looking for the BEST and most accurate way of installing this gauge. Can someone please point me in the right direction? Appreciate it........

I just got off the phone with some idiot trying to explain to him that I just moved to Flordia, and my CC info shows a different address, and he said "buy somewhere else" I'm not helping going to force the sale thru, and HUNG UP ON ME!! I called right back within seconds, same dick answers the phone, remembered my voice, and hung up with me before I could finish my first sentence. WOW! Customer service at its WORST! I could understand due to fraud reasons as my CC could be a stolen card, and thats why my billing info wont match my shipping info, but at least let the "customer" finishing telling to background info, before hanging up on them....SHEEESH. Anyone know of a place to purchase RF stuff online that wont need the CC info "MATCH" shipping addresses? Thanks, and dont buy from cartronix.com.......those fucking dicks....

Crazy....YES! but would look damn neat!

The USAmps series MD's (MD1,MD2,MD3D's) can go up to 8v. There is a dial selector on the side of the amp that starts @ 0.8V-8V.

I wish you the best with that hurricane bro....... Hope you sustain no damage, but it looks like it is coming straight for ya...

That is some DAMN GOOD info from you guys.....appreciate it....Missing link, heads up, I have an order coming soon...

I seemed to have lost my 2 Fi audio "BIG" stickers (not decals) does anyone out here have 1 they could spare? Need one for a little project im doing. I you would like my to pay for the stamp, no prob. Appreciate it very much.........

it seems that ALL batteries in general have gone WAY UP in price. I work at a mom and pop type performance parts store and for example: a basic dual terminal 78series bat in exide (78DT84N) went from 74.86 to 95$ just last week. Now I updated all the prices for all batts the other day, and a $20 increase in most batts seems common. The "ORBITAL" that exide offers (like a yellow top optima) dry deep cycle, went from $90 to $285 :01nocomment8so: . How the fuck in the right mind will buy this batt now? Thought I would just chime in and say this........

My whole reason for trying to switch over to 12GA wire is so that I can go squeeze 2 wires into the terminals on the BL's, so I can come out of the box with just 2 holes and not 8 like I currently have. I'll show you what I mean, I have a pic of the back side of my box. Im wanting to do the sub wiring internal to the box, and just have my 1+ and 1- wire coming out the box. I'm currently using 8Ga wire and that shit is thick, and can just barely get 1 wire into the speaker terminals.

Here is a quote from that chart 12 gauge: ~21.8 amperes 8 ohms - <3800 watts 6 ohms - <2850 watts 4 ohms - <1900 watts 3 ohms - <1425 watts 2 ohms - <950 watts 1 ohm - <475 watts Im running 2 18" BL's D1's wired to 1 OHM. Reading the above chart states that using 1OHM, I CANT exceed 475watts.... so if im reading that correctly, i CAN NOT use 12GA if im supplying 1100+RMS watts to each BL under 1 OHM....Correct? Thanks