Nightshade

The sub should be able to handle the power better in a smaller enclosure. You may not see them smoke in a cube, but then again I don't know their thermal capabilities. If you could tell me the woofer displacement then I'll give you the box size that is necessary. You won't need to figure port displacement because like I said before you'll want to put the port on the outside of the box to allow for maximum room between the flares on the port and the rear hatch wall.

WOW!!! That's an awesome price for an amp that does a lot over the rated power. If I weren't trying to damage my hearing I'd probably pick one of these up. Instead I'm going for the next in line of Sundown power. You can't beat $350 for 1200+watts rms, not to mention the quality of product and waranty.

MTX only makes dual 4's. Just answering the question for ya Alpine

I'll gladly continue to debate this with you all night long, but this guys thread is going to look like shit if we keep filling it with our bullshit so I'm not gonna continue it here. I tried to tell him that earlier in the thread, but somehow I let myself get sucked back into it. I have :01nocomment8so:

Idk ask James he's the one sitting behind his computer screen fondleing himself because someone actually talked to him on here. According to him whatever he says is the greatest spoken or written word ever. You know what my opinion is already, but others may not agree. That's what makes life interesting

Yeah I'm the fanboy. You're the wanna be audio guru that sits behind his computer and is too afraid to go to comps. Always quick to argue and criticise. Whatever helps you sleep at night. You enjoy disagreeing with anyone just to look like an asshole and you're pretty damn good at. I guess everone has to be good at something.

You are a tool. Find something better to bitch about next time. And the 2400 that I was told the 20.1 was doing was in a burp setup compared to daily setups with the Sundown amps.

How am I overhyping something when I'm stating facts? Just saying what it does and how it does it.

Derrick on Team Sundown is getting 2400 out of his at .5 ohms, but he has a MLA module on his Explorer. On a decent battery at .5 expect to see 2100-2200. Bangin Altima has one at .5 and gets 2100 with his voltage dropping to 13.2 and does 147's off of 2 15's in a trunk car, but this is a different thread all together and I don't wanna get in trouble for going off topic

Cough Sundown 1500D

Over that big head of his

[email protected], Iirc You'd be better off with an amp that does more power for less. Hint: it was already mentioned in this thread.

I was there today for this testing. We played around with Brandon's Bronco too, but he managed to break the Beast woofer that he had in there so we didn't get to take any pics. Brandon destroyes everything. Perfectly good subs broken!!!!

First off the amp that you have doesn't even start making power until you run it at 16 volts. Next off the boxes you're using are way too big for those subs regardless what Kicker's specs tell you. I'd start off at 1 cube per 10 and work from there. The tuning of your car is going to be more than likely from 55-61hz depending on what model and if it's got a sunroof or not. You would probably be okay tuning it to 52hz and cutting length off the port from there and stop cutting length when you see the score drop. Build two seperate boxes one for each woofer. The way it'll need to be done is woofer firing foward and port to the rear. You'll definately want to use aeroports, DO NOT use a slot port period! For a single cube per sub tuned to 52 hz you'll be looking at a single 4" aeroport 9.6" long. Build two boxes identical and stack them side by side with the subs foward and the ports to the rear. You more than likely won't be able to to fit the ports inside the box all the way so it's okay to mount the port to the face of the box sticking out of the enclosure. If you don't know what I'm talking about click my stats page at the bottom of the page in my signature and there are pics of how my enclosure is built in the same way. The further away you can keep the opening of the ports from the back of the wall of the hatch the better. I would slide the boxes foward as far as you're able to in the hatch of the car and still be legal. This is just a start, but I would be safe to bet that you won't be disapointed with the scores that this type of enclosure will yeild. Also get yourself some 16 volt Powermaster D1000's to help keep that amp supplied with power. Otherwise sell it and get something that does better on 12 volts. I've never seen one of those amps make more than 5500 watts EVER.

The first picture that you have posted looks very similar to my Focus ZX3. Mine's midnight blue with a spoiler in the rear and 20% tint on the front windows and 10% tint all the way around the back. What kind of numbers are you doing in your ride? Currently I'm doing 148's off 2 12's and 1900 watts rms in my ride. I'd say that 4 L7's is gonna break the hatch some because I've already cracked the spoiler in a few places and it's vibrating the paint off of the car where the spoiler and roof meet at. Prepare yourself for some damage

If you're planning on getting another dual 1 ohm woofer then you'll need an amp that produces max power at 1 ohms not two. It you only plan on running one woofer then you would need an amp that produces max power at 2 ohms or even .5 ohms. This amp should be decent for then 10 right now and then when you get another dual 1 it will work even better since the amp will be wired to it's pull potential at 1 ohm mono.

I wanna say you're wrong and I'm sure that Bob would't like it if you went advertising his dealer prices all over the internet. That alone could get your shop stripped of it's right to sell American Bass. You seriously need to learn when to keep your mouth shut dude.

Where are you from?

A ton of power is not always necessary. I'm giving each of my 12's 950 watts rms and I'm doing 148's in my Focus. I'd love to see what my car would do if I had 1500 watts rms per sub :hairtrick: It will come soon enough when I'm running a SAZ1500D per sub at .5 ohms.

I already said that I'd do 2 1500's instead of a single 3000, but it's just not going to be cheaper than getting a single 3000.

You have a great start for it, and in the future I'd add another battery in the rear just to keep voltage from dropping at all.

It's one of the best amps on the market. You do need a stout electrical to keep it from going up in smoke, but they make way more then rated power.

Yeah that's what I already said.

Why do you want to run at 2 ohms. You can get dual 1 ohm subs and wire the coils in series and then parallel the subs to get 1 ohm at the amp and a 3000D puts out 3000 watts at 1 ohm.

You aren't going to get 2 1500D's any cheaper than you will a 3000D. I do think that you'd be better off with a pair of 1500's, but in no way are they cheaper than a single 3000.