Neo_frog

That comment is full of fail.

Check to see if the battery drains without the amp connection. The only things I can think of would be a bad alternator or a dead short (which is unlikely). Also, verify that your engine ground hasn't fried. Sometimes the corrosion will reduce the effectiveness of the ground and eat up the terminal.

Where are you metering? Your tune won't always be the same as your peak.

So you're peaking at 55 or at 48? If you tuned to 40 and peaked at 55, then tuned to 55 and peaked at 48, then you should go slightly lower to match them up.

sonotube lol

Well just because you tune to a certain freq doesn't mean you'll peak there. When I tune to 32 I peak at 36, and when I tune to 30, I peak at 32 as an example. It's all about your cabin. Try tuning a bit lower (reduce port area) until they match. That way you'll be maximizing your cabin gain.

You don't always need PVC though. You could use sonotube for bigger diameters. The design sounds good though. I say try metering with different orientations. Any reason you chose 48.7hZ? My method has been shaving 1/2" off at a time and remetering peaks with sweeps at 1/2 volume until I found the highest regardless of the frequency.

It doesn't matter. Removing the remote wire will do nothing unless the car is on.

The key for maximum efficiency of that effect would be the size of the tunnel. Based on the subs/power/roll off would determine the appropriate mass of air inside the tunnel and create it. The problem is testing. The design takes so much effort that nobody (that I know of) takes the time to build it over and over to derive any tunnel equations since they would include some kind of factor that uses the cab space as a variable. I for one would love to see it done though.

LVL5s are sold to skavenger. Please lock!

Post the budget in the Audiosavings section telling them what you need, and they'll set you up with a full system.

Well if you're willing to run DC, I'm selling LVL5 18s.

Morning bumpage.

I can never tell if you're serious

And here's the little scratch.

LVL5s are sold to skavenger

Any attention to the board since you've been here? You would have seen this asked and ripped apart (some locked) about people asking what will I hit. The only reason people post is to up their post count.

Right. Well alternators don't produce voltage. They produce amps. Being here as long as you have, I'm surprised you listen to someone telling you to drain your battery.

Wow that's some terrible advice. Alternators don't just shut off when the battery is charged. And your computer regulates the voltage. If your voltage was 14 with stock, then you should be reading damn close to it with a new alt. EDIT: Had you worded it with a bit less detail, this would have been sig worthy.

Loading or consistent intake? It honestly depends how you train. If you are just going to load it before hand, I wouldn't do it. The excess weight from water retention will slow you down. If you do interval running and take it consistently, then your gains are quicker, but if not, then just go for it. edit:(without the creatine) I say just do some complex carb loading the day before and a little in the morning.

28...or if you're lucky a 165.

There's a wall in the way.

No one has back seats when they have a system

Assuming the alt is 10/10 mechanically, the next thing I would do is regulate it. I've seen cars have PCM problems with new alts for some reason, even after they are addressed in the design.

Check to see if your exciter wire/field wire are reversed. Or reverse them and check. The alt will run at ~12V all the time if it's connected wrong. I'm not saying this is your bad! When I got my alt, I had the same issue until I swapped my wires.