Neo_frog

As far as the impedance read from solid wire vs. wire/bolt setup I saw no difference on my meter. I tested both because I was having the same concerns, but if anything the rise is negligible. I guess with very high power applications it would matter, but for a daily driver it's nothing to worry about.

Or...you can save money and just use good old fashioned bare hands.

How about instead of worrying where your bass boost is at, just tune from the HU back with an o-scope. It'll take all the guess work out of tuning and giving the subs clean power. I did it for the first time a week ago and it's so damn simple and my gains are all up surprisingly high without any distortion. I really suggest it to everyone. A BTL would take that amp assuming you tuned it properly. Otherwise you'll smoke it.

SorryI never got back to ya man. I haven't had any time since shit hit the fan for me in January. I've kept you on the roll-o-dex for some brackets, but due to the military I gotta hold off.

I totally forgot about this thread since nobody responded. I already bought the batteries and sold a couple 10s. Sorry guys...got a few left, but using them for testing. However, if you really need some 10s, let me know and I'll hook you up.

LOWS!!!

Nah you're good with IL. I'm out there all the time and I haven't had rear views for years. Both side mirrors must be intact though. That's the only law.

Well I just wanna say, that I was a noob once too. And before I bought a shitty piece of equipment, I looked it up on MSN search since it was the 'big thing' back then and read the reviews. I was a noob for a long time and never once bought junk. It's not the companies fault that kids buy sub-entry level equipment because they didn't look it up first. And I'm not knockin anybody who does. Chances are, if a noob buys that amp, they are going to be happy with it because they don't know any better. If it fits their budget and they're happy then great. To each his own. But getting rid of max ratings is ridiculous. I could care less if they put 30,000W on the box for $39.99. I would probably laugh at first then look it up to see what it really does. I hope everybody signs it though.. Just because when (or if) it gets submitted, the companies will chuckle at your misfortune and continue to make money.

IMO, the consumer should do research before buying anything. Max wattage ratings is just a marketing tactic for some companies and they make a killing on these poor saps who just wanna see big numbers on a box and little numbers on a tag..

They sell them on eBay for pretty cheap too. Just search for MDF rings and you'll find anything you want. Even custom.

No haven't tried grounding the RCA's, but I'm gonna be buying a new head unit here soon. There are no chassis grounds. I have a big battery bank and each amp is on a different battery.

Well I forgot to mention that I tried a speaker out back with direct hook up and it does the same thing. I got the rumble of the subs to stop by messing with the RCAs on the line driver, but the hissing it still going. I'm pretty sure the preouts went bad because I've tried everything now except a different source. Unless someone has any other opinions?

It's actually a Panasonic...maybe I'll try doing that but I think I'm gonna get rid of this HU soon and go with a better one. I'll let you know how it goes.

If I get this figured out, I can post some test vids tonight!

Is it possible for ALL of the preouts to suddenly go bad? Everything was fine in my last install and not a month later, as soon as I hook everything up, there's a screaming hiss AND alternator whine coming from the speakers, and a low rumble coming from the subs. Even with the car off! (No whine when the car's off, but the hiss is still going). I didn't think much of it at first. I tried two other four channels and they all did the same thing. I tried two completely different sets of RCAs inside and outside the car and it continues. I've ruled out everything but the head unit now, so I wonder... It's not grounds because I have negative runs from under the hood and the amps are grounded to the battery bank on separate batteries. So basically all of the RCAs have random voltage going through them to cause the hiss and not even a month ago it was clean as a whistle. Any ideas? I'm not even sure if it's in the right section.

Cause that's what I said right? :01nocomment8so: I know nothing about car audio. Don't listen to me.

^wow Actually, the colder the air is, the more 'dense' it is. There are more molecules in a given volume at low temperatures than in higher temps. Sound is just vibration of these molecules in the form of waves. When a sub rapidly displaces the air, it creates a higher pressure inside the car, so if there are more molecules to move, the pressure will be higher than normal creating 'louder' bass. It's simple physics.

Notice I said monoblock. And like I said again, less box rise with two amps. Maybe more of a hassle, but more worth the effort, and usually less expensive. And they don't have to be strapped.

I gotta rep my Memphis. The MCD1000 is in the standings for this topic.

More than likely if you buy a 3000W monoblock, you'll only be getting 1500 out of it because your final load will be 2-ohms and your subs will only be getting ~375W a piece. It's not the best idea. I vote the two 1000W amps. You'll be giving the subs sufficient power since each pair will be a 1-ohm load and you'll have less impedance rise which ideally will yield more power. If you really have to have only one amp, like I said before, get a 4000W monoblock. The final load will drop the amp's power to 2000 @ 2 ohms which would be perfect for the subs.

I think it's a pretty nifty idea nonetheless. I'm interested in seeing how they perform. Forevrbumpn keep us updated if you have good results!

Yeah, I'd say stick with one solid box that's braced heavily on the inside, subs up port back. That seems to yield a good response in most trucks. Just make sure you have sufficient space and port area to compensate for the internal bracing. Or...if you end up not having 'enough' air space or you want the box a bit smaller, just give the subs a little more power than rated. Just make sure your port is correct.

Not quite. The amp would have to be 4k RMS to give the subs sufficient power at 2-ohm.

WTF? If you get two amps, you can run each pair of subs at 1-ohm by paralleling all the coils. If you get one amp, you can bring the total load to 2-ohms across all four subs. You'll be safe giving the subs 500W each. If you don't know what you're doing, you'll blow the shit out of them with too much power.

You can do it yourself. Click Edit under the first post and click Full Edit.