Neo_frog

Why did you pick such precise numbers? Maybe if you had four huge 15s using every last bit of space tuned properly on 20k+ watts, you'll hit your goal on a burp, but otherwise good luck. Be prepared to spend big money. x2

It is better, but just because you do the exact same thing as someone else doesn't mean you'll be getting the same results. They are entirely different cars for one and every car performs differently. Not saying it will, but there's a possibility that what works in the Escort might not work in your GrandAm.

Subs firing forward means they are facing the front of the car. If you were to do that and port back, it would work against you.

This is a really bland question. You'd be lucky to get an answer without more details.

I can't wait to see this!

Wow that's a hell of a post. As stated above, you will come nowhere near 155. You will probably break 150 though. As far as putting your subs forward and port back, where did that idea come from? I'm assuming you don't know much about systems so you're best bet would be to NOT give the BTLs 3000+ watts as you'll just tear them apart. You are getting your hopes up way too high about Dynamat. Lose the battery isolater as it will hurt you more than help. Will it get loud? Well it depends what you call loud. If the box is done right, you should be able to pull off a slight hair trick. (EDIT: Assuming it's a trunk system) Electrical looks good other than the isolater. 34hZ is a good tune and should perform well on the whole spectrum as long as you don't abuse the freqs way below tuning. Sounds like you're building from the ground up. Just make sure you do it right the first time and start a build thread so we can all see it.

Sometimes with the new bolt-ons, the clip leads could be backwards. I had the exact same problem putting my new one in and after messing with it for a couple hours, I had to cut and splice a new clip for it reversing the wires.

That's the only way to do it.

Well get cardboard, measure your 'pieces', put them in as you go and then there's your prototype. There's really not much to it. Just remember that your wood sizes will not be the same as the cardboard sizes due to different offsets.

Seriously, I'm worried you're going to be disappointed with the sound you get from the prefabs...I'm not against buying prefabs if that's what needs to happen, but you are LIMITED to the tuning of that box. You can't change it! Then you'd have a hell of a time selling the boxes or be disappointed and yada yada... I'm currently building a wall for four 15s in my car all double thick 3/4" MDF all around, tons of bracing, massive port, 24 cu. etc... and I managed to get away with four sheets of MDF. That's a little over $100 for a massive wall meant to withstand 8000W. I also braced a bunch with 2x4s and I glued everything together gratuitously, so I probably came out to about 150 after the build for the box alone. If you give me dimensions and what kind of box you want (tuning, size, orientation...), I'll make you a cut sheet and ppl here will guide you through it. You could probably get away with two sheets of wood, some glue, and a few screws. And with that extra cash, you could go buy a router and a jasper jig or a table saw. I'd really hate to see a system and money go to waste. (i.e. since you're on a budget.) You will still save money even if you ruined three whole sheets!!

Honestly, you would most likely save money by making your own box. And with everyone's help on here, we can help you tune it however you want rather than be limited to whatever the prefab is built to. And you can wire everything in one box. Why not look through the Members Builds/Show Off section and pay attention to how the boxes are built step by step. Or even look at Steve's builds, they are very descriptive. DON'T be in a rush for bass. You'll mess things up. Just take it slow and learn as you go while making a kick ass build. It will be more gratifying. You're best bet is to build over and over until you're good at it and everything is how you like it.

Well most likely not many will answer on here because your original question was answered. And if you start a thread asking that, it might just get locked so do research on your own and pay attention to members' signatures.

Who are you asking? I'm running two strapped Memphis MCD4KWs

You don't really need one unless your preout voltage from the head unit sucks. I have a 9V Memphis line driver and I think it ran me about $80, but I didn't really look at the price when I bought it so I might be wrong.

Plus, if I'm not mistaken, the Caddy is only doing 15000 to the subs and 10000 on highs. Am I wrong there? And the T15K has hybrid technology like Steve said. That's why the Caddy only has two alternators and sufficiently supplies those amps.

I don't know what you're talking about, they gave me my 10.5 mil... No but seriously, I get this e-mail every day. I always read them cause they're funny and there's never a valid return address. Plus the 'undisclosed recipients' list gives it away every time. I already sent a message to yahoo telling them to better their filters and forwarded most of the FBI e-mails to them. Nobody should be getting shit like this.

Not only is it a windchill of -26, but I just measured the snow on a table on my deck (after trekking to it) and it was 11 inches! 13 was the highest I found on the ground that wasn't a drift. More to hit tonight I guess.

On my Memphis amps, you have to buy a bridging module for the RCAs and gain match the amps prior to wiring them as listed above. There's no m/s options on them so each amp gain has to be set prior to strapping. I know you wanted to know about the SAZ, but just throwing my .02 that not all amps are the same if you ever change them out.

I guess I forgot to mention my Masters in Mathematics and BS in Civil Engineering. I have no idea what I'm talking about. Mods please close this thread. It isn't worth my time to read dumb shit and I know what I'm going to do.

Ok. Well how about on the meter?

A 45 degree insert to a 90 degree corner gives three surfaces for sound waves to bounce off of creating a "smoother" reflection because it's more than two, where as a quarter circle gives infinite sides to bounce off of. It would only make sense that it would be smoother, I just wanted info from the experts on the contrast of performance \. Read any calculus book about limits and you'll see what I mean. You are obviously not an expert, so please don't post here. kthx

So nobody has answered my question accurately. Has anybody really experienced the difference? Logically it makes sense, but on-paper is never the same as real-life. Obviously. But so can a quarter circle from sonotube.

Well if the curves give it a better sound, I'm just going to do that because I have the time and materials. I just need to know for sure before I start.

Here's something I've been wondering. If the 45s in a ported box are meant to allow waves to travel smoother, wouldn't 90 degree curves essentially accomplish that better (i.e. curved joints)? I've seen it done in some SPL boxes and just wanted some feedback from the experts.

Also, there's a pretty incredible 3 minute drum solo in Manowar - Achilles, Agony and Ecstacy. You should check that out.