Fish Chris

Sealing the port off, will do the same thing as removing it.... However, now your enclosure will be too big..... unless you put something inside to take up the additional space. But the best thing, would be to go back to your original sealed box. You do still have it.... right ? Peace, Fish

Hey Keepinit, I had not, but I will go check those out now. Thanks, Fish Hey, I just checked those out. Not bad looking subs. Remind me of Kickers. I do like how much info Soundstream provides for building the enclosures... sm, med, and lg, and porting for each. Other companies need to take notes. http://www.soundstream.com/AudioProducts/S...ers/rubicon.htm

Hey Vista Agreed. Actually, my birthsheet only shows 935wts @ 1ohm..... and then, its quite a bit more efficient at 2 ohms + easier on the amp longer life) So, I'm leaning strongly towards the 2 ohm load, with only 705 wts RMS. Still, I was checking out those Fi's and they look great. I'm thinking that 350 wts should get them moving pretty well, and maybe I could get a stronger amp later. BTW > Why don't speaker companies ever tell you the optimum square inches of port area for a speaker ??? Unless it's buried in here somewhere.... SSD15 DUAL 1 | DUAL 2 Fs: 25.9 Hz | 25.3 Hz Re: 0.75 Ohms/coil | 1.5 Ohms/coil Qms: 4.78 | 4.89 Qes: .65 | ..58 Qts: .57 | .52 Mms: 246g | 258g Cms: 0.15mm/N | 0.15mm/N Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2 Vas: 141.3 l | 141.3 l Spl: 87.6dB 1W/1m | 87.8dB 1W/1m Bl: 9.3 N/A | 00.0 N/A Xmax: 21mm Rms: 800W Sealed box: N/A cuft Ported box: 3-4 cuft @ 33Hz Sub OD: 15.625” Cut ID: 14.125” Mounting depth: 8.000” Displacement: 0.17cuft Ported enclosures are simple and fun to calculate, but the square port area is obviously important, and I can never freaking find it :-( Always have to call or e-mail for an answer. They kill me with that ! Peace, Fish

Hey Fender, right on. I'm going to go look at those RE SE's again right now. Hey Crump, I know if I went with only one 15", it would give me quite a few more choices, for bigger, badder subs, as now I would have twice the power available for it {and I do like those Fi's}. However, if I went with only one 15" sub, as opposed to the two 12" subs I'm running now, my surface area would barely change. Now, I know their are a lot of other variables, such as length of throw, that will contribute to loudness.... and yes, I understand that one 15" (the right 15", and setup correctly) could be a little louder... cleaner ?) than my two 12"s. However, I would think, that two 15"s (again, the right 15"s, and setup correctly) could "more easily" be louder.... and "maybe" cleaner, than my two 12"s (but the 'cleaner' part is going to be the stretch, as my 12"s do sound really musical). Thanks guys, Anybody else ? Fish

This is my RF Power 1000. It does a great job powering my pair of 12" eD 13Kv.2's (yes, their is two 12"s in that box) my pair of 8" mid-bass drivers, and my pair of Polk Audio component mids + highs. But I'm getting bored, and want a new toy. Right now, my two choices are; 1) building a big ass t-line, for both of my 12"s, which will more or less require a wall (but I'm not really scared of that idea). Or 2) a couple 15"s, in another tuned port enclosure (which ironically, would require less space than the 12"s in a t-line, so would not need a wall... just a larger enclosure) So, I'm kind of about half way in between an SPL and a SQ guy. An SQL wannabee I guess Now, I think I prefer to run my sub channel at 2ohms, for efficiency, and a longer life for the amp..... So that means I'm only working with about 700 watts RMS for my subs. What are some choices for subs which sound pretty good, but get pretty loud too...... and that will do that with a measley 350 wts RMS each ? What do you guys think about Alpine Type R's ? Or heck, I'm pretty happy with my eD's.... so how about 16Ov's ? What other choices would you suggest ? Thank you, Fish

Yea' come on man ! You can't just leave us hanging ! WTF is that crazy arse thing ? And what size is it ? Fish

When I first designed and built the box for my two 12"s, the manufacturer recommended an enclosure (for the pair) of 3 cubes, and a tuning of 30hz. It hit rediculous lows.... I mean like below the human hearing range, on the lowest notes of a techno bass track...... However, I felt like it was missing a little bit of the more "normal" musical bass (bass guitars, drums, etc). So, I opened it up, took up about .2 cubes (with chunks of glued down 2 x 4) and shortened the port by a few inches, to raise my tuning to about 32-33 hz. That move seemed to cost me about 25% on those "very few" stupid low notes...... but it made a big improvement with 99% of the other stuff I play with them. Tighter, more audible "normal" bass. Was it worth it ? In my case, totally. I think when / if I ever built another tuned orted enclosure, I will shoot for 32-33'ish....... But what I really want to do, is to build a t-line that hits flat as $#!+ from 20hz to 80hz. My mid-bas drivers can take it from there ;-) Peace, Fish

Qu1cks Huh ? With a single 15" sub ??? Do you realize that would require aprox 14 cubic ft ? Sure, t-lines (so they say) are really clean, flat, transparent, etc..... but if the OP was going to go with a t-line, and he wasn't too worried with having a ton of booming bass anyway, maybe a t-line for one 8" would suffice.... and that would probably only take up about 3 cubes too. For one of those 15"s, I'd probably go with sealed, and either the optimum cubes recommended by that sub company.... or even a touch smaller {and personally speaking, I like a lot of deep, loud bass.... but I'm trying to stick to what the OP was asking for here} I agree with Sully, if you want a setup that sounds like the ones in a BMW, the car needs to be as quiet (or as close as you can get it) as a BMW. Lots of deadening. Peace, Fish

Okay Forevr. I'm strongly considering a t-line right now, for my two 12"s. And I'm trying to learn all I can about them. I always hear people say > A t-line will get just as loud on half the power. Okay, that's fine, but if my power stays the same {700 wts RMS for my two 12"s} will that help ? Currently, I have my two 12"s in a tuned ported enclosure (3 cubes, to about 32hz) and they sound great..... pretty loud, and very musical. I'm just bored, and want a new toy. But too poor to buy bigger, badder subs or amps. So I'm thinking about t-lines. How would "you" compare the output of a couple 12"s in a correctly built tuned ported enclosure, to that of the same 12"s, with the same power, in a correctly built t-line ??? A little louder ? Cleaner ? Flatter ? Deeeeper ? Just trying to decide if it's worth it. I know every enclosure has its +'s and -'s, and if the only minus with a t-line, is that they are really big, I think I can handle that........ but I wouldn't want to go through all that trouble, and take up all that space, if I (and the people I showed it off to ) didn't say, "Holy $#!+" ! And again, I have a really nice ported enclosure right now.... Forevr ? Anyone ? Peace, Fish

I did the Big 3 (4 actually) all with 1/0, before I put in my system, along with a much better battery (but not a dual setup... I just replaced my lame stock batt). Granted, I'm just running one 'relatively' light weight RF Power 1000 25 to Life..... But anyway, I haven't had any problems at all. No dimming lights whatsoever, and I crank my system for 30 minutes to an hour all the time > with the truck turned off < , and it never dips below 12.3 volts..... about 13.5 truck running, with stereo + air con.... 13.8 to 14.4 with air con off, stereo on {oh, and I put in a digital voltmeter too, so I wouldn't have to worry about running my batt too low, then not being able to start the truck}. Anyway, shortly after I did the Big 3, I was on another forum, where the resident guru posted this big, long, technical thread, with graphs, pictures, case studies, etc, all to prove, that the Big 3 typically wasn't worth $#!+ Now, I'm pretty much an electrical dummy..... but I read the guys post like 3 X's, and what he was saying actually kind of made sense. In a nutshell, he said that the length of runs, commonly used in the Big 3, were too short to make any noticable difference in resistence, and that the only time when it made a bigger, more noticeable difference, was with long runs of cable, like from a battery under your hood, to an amplifier in your trunk.... or your alt under the hood, to a batt in the trunk. Hmmmmm. ........that, and also, if you were running a high powered alt, or 2.... (er 4 Hmmmm. At the very least, the Big 3 "looks cool" Anyway, I have to agree with that other guru guy, that for my setup, the Big 3 probably isn't doing squat. But it might be doing a little more for some of you with much bigger, badder systems. Peace, Fish

Damnit Jim ! 180 decimals ! That guys my new idol ! Fish

Well of course this is going to be a bad-ass, totally over the top build. Look who's building it. If I could ever have a system that was "half" as awesome as SM's old Tahoe, I'd be stoked beyond belief But hey, I just have to talk about those I-Beams for a second. First off, I think those a great idea. In fact, about a month ago, I was looking at those old, not quite so strong Aura Bass Shakers. When I mentioned them to some guys on another stereo forum, they all got a good laugh, and had to clown me about keeping my vibrator under the seats (those beee-otches ! My personal friends ripped me even more ! Of course, what are freinds for, right ? Anyway, I still thought they were a great idea..... even if they were an easy subject to have fun with. So now, a month later, and "The King of car audio" brings up these I-Beams, and nobody clowns him about it ? That's okay man...... I can talk about / do some of the most out-of-the-box, weirdest, goofiest stuff pertaining to fishing, then talk about it on the fishing forums, and nobody ever talks any shit about that either. If they did, I'd just stick a 15lb bass in there face ;-) Anyway, I'm anxious to see the latest, craziest, SM creation ! Hey Steve, is thier any way (a time or place) that I could get a demo of "any" of your systems ? Even your Honda is more than anything I've ever experienced in person. Peace, Fish

>>>>>> BLOW THROUGH !!!!! Peace, Fish

Well hell yea', Steve Meade is the absolute king of over the top car audio ! But who doesn't already know that ? And how many times has he heard it ? Oh, and BTW, alcohol is the most fucked up "drug" on the planet (and it's legal ? Figure that out) Not one bad thing to say about Chicken though. My father was an alcoholic, but one of the best guys I've ever known. It wasn't alcoholism that killed him though. Lung cancer beat the alcohol to the punch. Thirty years of Pall Mall unfiltereds is probably not a great idea either. Too bad Chicken wasn't into something less harmful like weed... or energy drinks........ His Caddy (Steve's creation) is one of the most awesome examples of car audio the world has ever seen..... But once again, alcohol has to get in the way and fuck everything all up :-( Oh well, Peace, Fish

Hey wL, in a perfect world, sure.... that would be great.But I just have a hard time believing that the mid-range speakers in pretty much any comp set (least any I've ever heard) can do enough between 60hz and 100hz, to really keep things flat.... "especially" if you have some high powered subs, and enough mids and highs to almost keep up. If it's strictly an SPL system, and being able to stay flat isn't important, that's fine. But their IS a good reason why most SQ guys run mid-bass drivers. Peace, Fish

I agree with James. That's why I have to have mid-bass drivers in my upcoming system. 100hz or higher is too high for subs to sound great.... and 70hz is too low without mid-bass to fill in the gap. In fact, if my mid-bass drivers perform as well as I'm hoping, I might even cross my subs over at 60 hz down. Then grab 60 to 300 hz or so with the mid-bass drivers, and 300hz and up with my mid/ high components. Peace, Fish

Yes, what 1LOWSUV said IMO...Chevy tops Ford in the SUV category, As far as trucks I'll take an F-whatever over a chevy anyday And here's the funny thing..... I just bought an 08' Ford F150 ! But if I were going to buy an SUV, it would have been an 08' Chevy Tahoe. I don't like the front ends on the new Chevy trucks (although I've seen a few solid black, or other solid color ones lately, that didn't look too bad). The Tahoe's don't have that funky chrome crap on the bumpers though, so they look really nice. IMPO though, it's hard to go wrong with ANY new Chevy, or Ford. It's really a shame that these companies are hurting so bad, even though they are making better vehicles than they ever have ! Hmmmm, Fish

Hey Decaf, that doesn't sound like a bad idea either. But I'd probably just break down and buy an 8gig SD card though. But my Excelon won't take SD cards.... So a flash drive it will be. Peace, Fish

X's 2 I know their are millions of people out there that love their iPods..... but I just don't see why I should pay for all kinds of features of an iPod.... or even any of the other MP3 players {Zune, etc} when all I need is a simple storage device. I've been told that (at least with my Kenwood Excelon) the ease in which you can sort through your music, by way of the HU, has everything to do with how you set up, and organize your music in individual folders.... Then (again, just what I've been told) its like, you scroll left to right, through folders, and top to bottom for individual songs in that folder. I do know that (as eliassami5 said) an iPod is just a flash drive with a fancy case, and some extra features (which I will never use) so as far as sound quality goes, it would be the same as a flash drive. Hmmm, Fish Oh BTW... 500gig ? 320gig ? Unless you are going to save videos or something, what would be the point ? Personally, I have less than 1000 songs, of which I have been told, will easily fit on an 8gig flash drive. And for $30 each, I could always get 1 or 2 more..... 'or' in a year or two, I might be able to get a 60 or 80gig flash drive, for the same $30.

So why is an iPod better than a flash drive ??? I don't want to have to pay $150 to $300 for an iPod, when I can get a sufficiently large flash drive for $30. The way I see it, an iPod does all kinds of stuff that will never be important to me {and it looks pretty, even though I would just hide it anyway} yet I'd still have to pay for that stuff.... + I'd have to worry about it getting stolen. Portability of my music means absolutely NOTHING to me {except to get it from my PC to my vehicles}. I don't even want to listen to music anywhere but in my vehicles when driving.... Oh, and my PC has a little 3 way system {not really loud, but very clean}. So tell me again why an iPod is better ??? Thanks, Fish

Damn dude, that sucks ! I hadn't heard this about the Pioneers. I got a Kenwood Excelon, but only because I didn't like the looks of the Pioneers. I totally plan to use a flash drive 95% of the time I use my stereo + I don't even own an i-Pod / MP3 player.... and never will, if I can help it. Sure hope I don't run into anything rediculous like this. Peace, Fish

MTX J30 brings up a good point.... I was wondering a little while ago, if I could get some "actual" decals for like "LoJack".... or "Protected by Photo Survelance" and such..... Or even just alarm manufacturer decals, but from a difference company than your actual alarm.... Anything to throw them off / screw them up, right ? Anyone ? Peace, Fish

I only have a few decals on my truck, but I think they match it well :-) Peace, Fish

This was e-mailed to me, along with a little story about how this guy had broke into a museum, and set off an alarm. He ran, and jumped off of a roof, but "didn't quite clear this fence"..... Of course with these things, you never know exactly what the real story was..... But in any case, I wish this could happen to every thief. I bet thefts would go WAAAAY down.... Fish

BTW, does anybody own a Boston Terrier ??? One of my favorite breeds :-) These are some of the very nicest I've seen. If you are even slightly interested, scroll down on this page. Darn, I want one ! http://www.circlejbostons.com/ Peace, Fish