SmallTruk

Shipping still takes 2-3 weeks. IMO its worth it for the price. As far as color goes I always go with 6k or less so the tinting doesn't matter to me. But I had 2.5k in my fogs and the tint on the bulbs was really subtle. You could always order from SuperVision and spend $300 and get the same ballasts and shitty customer service.

Say what? I just received an order last week... http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Apexcone-Raptor-HID-Kit As far as warranty goes I really could care less. For the price of their stuff its easier to just order new stuff vs the hassle of making a claim and paying to ship the bad stuff back.

Your techniques are almost irrelevant to this situation. The OP wants to detail a car that's probably never been detailed and is factory paint that's who knows how old. I doubt your new paint on your mustang is single stage (like a lot of newer cars are) let alone as thin as factory paint jobs are. He takes your advice and he could go right through the paint in the first 5 minutes. I agree with you SQ, the car needs to be seen before the correct technique can be given. OP....unless you really want to get into detailing her car regularly and spend the money associated with it I'd say just take it to one of those parking lot detail tents, spend the $75 or so and let them deal with it. Your girl obviously doesn't care much about taking care of her paint job so anything better than what she has now would be an improvement.

On a Sunday evening? Doubtful...

Reading lessons would be useless for your posts seeing how your spelling sucks ass.

With wire.

Ahh, missed that the first time.

If only he had stuck the landing, woulda been perfect. Seriously though, what about the guy that was smashed between the cars?

Yah, thats what ive know. So what will the driver do if that phase pot is only partially turned, not at 0 or at 180?

Good plan

lol you're an idiot. inverting subs doesnt have anything to do with phase. they dont "sound" any different if the motor is outside or inside the box. if i remember correctly, the last time you posted had an absurdly wrong answer. He must have phase confused with polarity. A good read for anyone http://totalproaudio.stevebunting.com/30/basics/phase-or-polarity/ I think he's confused with more than just that... I thought reversed polarity is what caused a driver to be out of phase?

That's why i posted that link. The only oem's available are 65 amp. I did contact all of the vendors listed but i can't justify spending $400 on a 200a when a 65a cost $60, just doesn't add up in my book. 120 to 150 would be plenty for my needs. Thanks for the replies. You gotta pay to play. That 65a/$60 alt is made in Mexico with cheap parts and is designed to just make the car run. The brands mentioned are built for high output with parts that'll last. Would you run batteries from Walmart just because you can't justify spending the cash for XS Power....a battery is a battery, right? What are you running and what are your plans? Yeah, i would run batteries from wal mart as a matter of fact.(i would love to have some XS's but can't afford them) You know, two kids, mortgage, car payment, bills, food. That stuff. Anyway, My alternator is on its way out and i'm just looking at options. Seeing how i'm on a budget i don;t want to buy an el-cheapo now then buy another in a year or two.I posted a link to one that's 120 amp for a good price. That should will cover anything i want to do. As for the current draw currently. If you go by fuse ratings i will only draw about 80 with the amplifiers i have, plus the stereo and carputer plus the cars electrical. I'm not shelling out $400 bucks for a 200 amp alternator because thats ridiculous. I could see $200 to maybe $250 for a 200 amp. Anyway, i do appreciate the advice and i did contact all three of those vendors. So we will see what that brings. How do you figure that 120a one is going to be enough? From what you said lets add things up and say you're going to need 90-100 amps for the system alone. You really think that alt will be giving full power at all RPM's or that your car only needs 20 amps to run? There's a reason it came with a 60 amp alt stock....it's needs the power. Go with a 200a unit minimum, something that has decent output at idle. But hey what do I know....I only save up to get the good stuff once so i dont need to replace it a year later since I have a kid, mortgage, loans, bills, food and I'm a single dad. Yah, that's life.

Cool. I honestly never knew it was variable, I just assumed it was an alternative to switching wire leads so it was either in or out of phase. Thanks for the lesson guys!

x2! x3 wtf?? @snafu....ive always wondered why the phase "switch" on some amps was variable like the gain and other controls vs just a ON or OFF, do you know? when it comes to phase the only experience I've even personally had would be to swap speaker wires to accommodate subs that were mounted inverted

That's why i posted that link. The only oem's available are 65 amp. I did contact all of the vendors listed but i can't justify spending $400 on a 200a when a 65a cost $60, just doesn't add up in my book. 120 to 150 would be plenty for my needs. Thanks for the replies. You gotta pay to play. That 65a/$60 alt is made in Mexico with cheap parts and is designed to just make the car run. The brands mentioned are built for high output with parts that'll last. Would you run batteries from Walmart just because you can't justify spending the cash for XS Power....a battery is a battery, right? What are you running and what are your plans?

so first you say that these are all assumptions and you used to work in a plant that made batteries. then you say that you really don't know. brilliant So what you are saying is by using 2 different batteries they will last only 25% as long? And pray tell where did you come up with this theory oh great conductor of knowledge? i could be wrong but I'm pretty sure he was giving those numbers as examples. the part about "there is no set number" kinda gives that away.

Even if they did reach a state of equilibrium, why would you want your 13v batts being drained to charge your 12v battery?

Fly your Jeep here and prove me wrong.

While you have a very valid point, IMHO if you have all brand new batteries, this doesn't really happen. Not true, Certain AGM batts may rest at 12.8 while certain wet cells may rest at 12.6. Even brand new, fully charged. DONT MIX TYPES I have AGM batteries in the back that rest at 13-13.1, and my front flooded battery rests at 12.8. I can turn off the car, come back 2 days later and everything is still sitting at 13-13.1. So whatever parasitic draw caused by the front battery is negligible in my case. I call BS on that. And I doubt you've had your jeep sitting for 2 whole days since you put those batteries in. I've seen this happen personally a few times, it's easy to notice when you only have one battery in the rear....harder with a large bank. Regardless, it's still not ideal to mix brands. A wet cell in the front isn't even something I'd mix in.

stock speakers and they sound crystal clear to you? i think you'd be fine with any of the options you gave yourself. go with the cheapest and easiestto install Stock out of a 2012 suburu STi, yes. I still stand by what I said

Just take the battery out when you're not using it.

stock speakers and they sound crystal clear to you? i think you'd be fine with any of the options you gave yourself. go with the cheapest and easiestto install

got mine today too. now i just need to figure out where I'm gonna put it...

thats not a touchscreen if you're going for real SQ you should pretty much eliminate touchscreen HU's from your search. I know this ... I have a double din Kenwood DNX9980HD in my Sound Quality vehicle ... Works great for Sound Quality competitions ... and ... Do you not agree with me that the Pioneer DEX-P99RS is the best single Din headunit availiable for Sound Quality ?? If you disagree with me ... Would you please explain why ?? i wasn't disagreeing with it being a great SQ unit, he said he wanted a touchscreen unit....the P99 isn't a touchscreen. i personally run all pioneer units and have been since Alpine did away with the 7 thousand series.

Air shocks aren't going to increase his payload capacity, all they do is allow the dampening to be adjusted. The payload is determined by the spring. Adding 800+lbs and relying on shocks to handle that is a bad idea. The easiest thing to do would be to get a set of springs made to accommodate the additional weight. Wether you have stand alone springs or struts, you can get a spring with a higher spring rate to fit either. I wouldn't do coilovers, they're made for performance....not heavy loads. You're gonna blow them in no time. Air bags/struts would work but then you need to find a place for the compressor and tanks. Helper bags would work but I'm assuming you have rear struts like most cars so they wouldn't fit.