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siucsaluki11

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Everything posted by siucsaluki11

  1. whats your external dimmensions? Doing 2 separate chambers and a common port, the most i can squeeze out of my car is 3.2-3.5cubes around 35Hz....i could narrow the port, but i don't really want to.... drop below ~15sq/cu
  2. I was really wanting one of those JBLS a few years back, i recommend that amp, if you miss out, the BRZ1700.1D puts out about 1k at 2 ohms, thats what I'm running it at, I'm pretty happy with it for the money.
  3. If you're trying to split the stereo signal out of your iPod to a 4ch, heres what i would do. Get a 1/8" to stereo RCA adapter, then get 2 RCA Y splitters, there you go, your 2ch has become 4....this is not necessarily ideal, but for what you're working with, it will work.
  4. mlstrass has a BAD ASS wall in his little old maxima i think it is...last i was in it was 4 HDC3 15s and i wanna say 4 AQ3500s....HOLY SHIT was that thing loud.....
  5. I've contemplated doing a wall when i get done with school and get a real job and buy a new car, and use my lancer to wall off, or buy a blazer and wall that off, but I'm 6'6...i just don't see a wall all the way to the B pillar in my future....My back doesn't like sitting up straight, and my legs like having their room....
  6. You n me are fine it's strangeduck that needs to have his head socially removed from his ass so he can see what was written in his math books or the screen in front of him
  7. i mentioned sketchup in post #8 of this thread. why am i pissed, no sleep, shitty projects and short deadlines, and people who dont know how to understand the words on the screen in front of them.
  8. What do you mean "tell them" to multiply your area by height? take the area of the base (or in this case the side) and multiply it by the height (width in this case) in inches, save the conversion to cuft at the very end, till then, its easiest to keep it all in inches.... LOL, that only works on uniform boxes dork mcgee, This is an irreglular box, so short of dunking it in water ala "Archimedes" you have to either use a tool like sketchup or break it down. ummm, yeah, since his box is the way it is, you can take the area of one of the sides, multiply it by the depth of the box (in inches) then divide it by 1728in, which is 12inx12inx12in to convert it to feet. If youre talking about boxes with different depths on the top and bottom, measure a side and the same rules apply smartass. You can use sketchup to get the area of the side, or you can not be a lazy fuck like you probably are, grab a fucking paper and pencil and a ruler, and do some math to figure it out. But apparently youre too fucking lazy. Doing what you said wouldnt work anyway, it would give the Gross Volume, not even taking the thickness of the wood into account in this situation. It is assumed you don't figure the wood thickness into the equation, only internal dimensions. And if you will take notice the box has a 45 degree angle in the middle therefore your method wont work. edit. I do want to add that yes area X depth will work, but you can't just do "X" x "Y" to get the area of a trapezoid like you make it sound. that isnt what i was saying. i was saying take the area of that face, and multiply it by the height. If you dnt have sketchup, you need trig/geometry.
  9. What do you mean "tell them" to multiply your area by height? take the area of the base (or in this case the side) and multiply it by the height (width in this case) in inches, save the conversion to cuft at the very end, till then, its easiest to keep it all in inches.... The area is given in square feet, not square inches (at least for me). So keeping it in inches till the end would involve converting to square inches, and then converting to cubic feet at the very end, rather than just converting inches to feet once. Also, calm the fuck down. There's no reason to calculate it manually, when you have a tool like sketchup, that's just a stupid waste of time. And it works just fine, you're taking the inside volume of the box, no need to take wood thickness into account... Just quit running your mouth, you're making yourself look like an idiot. yeah, im saying how to use sketchup the same way you are, but this jackass isnt seeing that. Sketchup for me keeps it all in inches till i tell it to do feet. Easier to work in inches for me
  10. What do you mean "tell them" to multiply your area by height? take the area of the base (or in this case the side) and multiply it by the height (width in this case) in inches, save the conversion to cuft at the very end, till then, its easiest to keep it all in inches.... LOL, that only works on uniform boxes dork mcgee, This is an irreglular box, so short of dunking it in water ala "Archimedes" you have to either use a tool like sketchup or break it down. ummm, yeah, since his box is the way it is, you can take the area of one of the sides, multiply it by the depth of the box (in inches) then divide it by 1728in, which is 12inx12inx12in to convert it to feet. If youre talking about boxes with different depths on the top and bottom, measure a side and the same rules apply smartass. You can use sketchup to get the area of the side, or you can not be a lazy fuck like you probably are, grab a fucking paper and pencil and a ruler, and do some math to figure it out. But apparently youre too fucking lazy. Doing what you said wouldnt work anyway, it would give the Gross Volume, not even taking the thickness of the wood into account in this situation. You can ALWAYS use math (trig/geometry in this case) to do this kinda stuff.... Also, my method is the SAME as the guy who also posted, but i convert to cuft at the end, i leave everything in inches till then.
  11. i find its easier to just tell them multiply your area by the hight, then divide by 1728 (12^3)
  12. I shoot sporting clays, theres a little red triangle at the end of my 32" barrels and thats it (and that goes for all my shotguns, not all 32s, but still, no scopes)....my 30-30, my .22 and my .40, all iron sights. No fancy scopes here, more about getting the gun fit to the shooter. Got a Kolar 12ga my dad bought, custom built to fit him.
  13. Use trig/geometry and you can do it no problem...you just have to divide that bitch into parts, find the volume of each section, add it all up, and youll have your volume.
  14. so what happened? I got a 2010 DE, i had to chop up that metal crossmember, which i need to make a new piece and go in and patch it still, since my back sats dont fold, i have to pull them to remove my box for my 12s, its a bitch and a half...im wondering if theres any way i can swap the back seats for ones that will fold....
  15. i got my HC1400 for 220 of sonic.....just saying man....
  16. yeah, if money isn't an issue, go for it. Otherwise, id go to the diymobileaudio forum, they have a lot of SQ guys over there, and a lot of GREAT old school amps for sale.
  17. 3.8 cubes is fine, as is 30Hz tuning, What are you listening to though, and whats it going in. You can most likely get away with 33-35Hz ( i currently have 2 12s in a 3.8 cube box tuned to 33-34Hz and i fucking LOVE it, but i cant wait to get a/some new sub(s) for the back to replace my 5 year old clarions. but yeah, 3.8 cubes is fine for 2 12s ported. Might wanna make the port a bit bigger (not much, but a tiny bit) but that wont matter much, youre close enough....Box tuning will rise once you put the subs in also, since they will displace some volume as well. Find WinISD and see how what plots out the best, then use sketchup to design a box.
  18. after reading this thread, im considering building a new box. Ive had my subs facing the trunk and port firing into the drivers side wheel well for a while now. I think ill try subs and port back with the port in the center of the box...
  19. Id go bigger. Im at a total of 1200wRMS at 2 ohms on my subs and 200w RMS at 4 ohms on my mids and highs. I put a HC1400 under the trunk, and think ill still put a battery in the back when i can afford one.
  20. i understand when it is needed in a technical sense, but i guess I'm trying to ask, how far can you go without getting a HO alt
  21. I haven't had a spare 20 min to work on my car since i put the new battery in, and that took away a nights sleep cuz of schoolwork i had to do still. I am on the 630 train to the city, and the 6pm train home. Then i get to do all the fun homework. Im not going to do it ghetto, ill wait and do it right. I don't think you understand how much of a PITA the 2010 lancer is to work on when you're 6'6
  22. accidentally deleted my reply. But what all do you have in there? Im doing the big 3 in aug/sept when i have a break from school. I don't have shit for spare time lately, too busy with school. Probably do a volt meter then too, though my dash is a bitch to get off... I have a HC1400 under my hood and 1/0 to the trunk, BRZ1700D@2ohms and MRP-F300@4ohms, and my voltage drops to 12.9 at full tilt while idling. As far as the numbers go, i need an HO alt as it is, my alt is a 120A alt, and my system draws ~200A
  23. no shit, that makes no sense whatsoever..... So what you're saying is that you want a sub with a broader frequency response curve, that also has more output SPL wise yes? L7s are garbage, they sound like shit in everything I've heard, i only know of one setup that was tolerable, and i actually designed the box for the shop that did the install for the guy. Either the Q OR the BL will both sound better and be louder than your L7, if you build the box right.....Currently I'm debating between Q and BL myself, then I'm debating between keeping trunk and going with a single 12, or saying fuck the trunk, i havent needed it in the past 3 years now, always have had 2 12s back there, and go with a single 15
  24. id love to test my actual output, but A. My voltage drops to 12.9 at full tilt while idling, and B. I don't have a clamp meter, just a Fluke 88...my grandfather, who's a retired electrician might though....if i can find one without buying one, ill do the tests. if it weren't a bitch to get mine out id take a gut shot for ya, but it requires removing my back seat completely and all, and its too fucking hot for that.... my BRZ1700 takes 0ga knuconceptz wire.....
  25. If im correct its very similar to the BRZ1700, which im running currently. Cant beat them for the price!
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