kickass audio

to chime in, i would honestly save your money. That alt looks like it has poor ventilation and as previously mentioned looks "hot modded". I have a 270 mechman for my system and i do get some voltage drop at idle (it will happen when i draw 160 amps of power at idle, lol) and the alt does get pretty warm but it has great ventilation so i can keep hammering on it and not have it fail me. The reason i think mine is hot is because its right next to my radiator hose and has a big amount of surface area mounted on the side of the engine to keep it hot. I have had mine for almost a solid year and have been beating the hell out of it and it hasnt failed me. Just do yourself and your money a favor and save up for a better alt from mechman or dc power. I have owned nothing but mechmans and have nothing but great things to say about them, even after my one alt took a crap (thank you ups for dropping the box) they were still outstanding to work with.

well to some it is dampening thats why i mentioned it

^^this. Plus i only put a sheet and 1/4 of deadner (SS Damp Pro) on my lift gate and that damn thing isnt rattling one bit. The only rattle you hear on the lift gate is my 3rd brake light and the window shaking a little but its not anything to make you walk away from due to the crappy sound of it rattling like a coffee mug full of screws. I have about 3/4 of coverage on the inner part of my tailgate and it is great for how it deadened the entire panel.

compared to fat mat, cheap ass home depot roofing dampener, etc it is more expensive for SS.

its high priced for a reason, the quality is so damn great. I have Damp Pro on just my rear lift gate and it works great. I am going to sink money into getting enough of it to cover all my doors, roof, and the rear wheel wells. I bought just a trunk pack and i have an extra 5 sheets or more left in the box waiting for my next install job of the roof next summer. Just buy it from their site and maybe see if they can give you a discount if you buy enough of it.

actually thats not what i meant at all. I meant it as in you will be able to hear it without a doubt over your sub stage. I can hear my mids and highs just fine over my SMD when i gave it 4000w rms clamped just be careful like i said with the power you feed those tweeters. They get loud fast.

I have two sets of Rockford Fosgate T1652-s components for my sound stage. I have just two of the 4 tweeters in use and they are mounted on my a pillar just above my dashboard, each door currently has one of the 6.5" component speakers in them (the back door im thinking to rip out since my rear seats are folded down until i remove them and you cant hear them at all) mine gets very loud and sounds crystal clear. I have them all running on my dc audio 175.4 amp. The tweeters operate at 4 ohms since i gave them their own channels and my mids operate at 2 ohms (i have the front and rear doors paired together per side) on their own channel. The tweeters just to warn you get super loud fast so you will have to turn down the gain on them quite a bit or they will kill your ears even though they are silk tweeters. I also am not using the passive crossovers they come with since it sucks a ton of power from the speakers and i didnt notice any difference in sound from them since i have a 3sixty.2 to control my sound. They are rated for 100w rms at 4 ohms for each mid and the tweeters are 75w rms per tweeter. I paid $340 shipped for both sets of them from CJ18 on here and they work great. I only blew one tweeter but it was 100% without a doubt my fault because i sent a little too much power to the tweeter and locked up the diaphragm on one of them but other than that i have been pounding on them and have had no problems. edit: you can hear these loud and clear even over my single SMD 18" sub stage so theres no doubt you will be able to hear them over your sub setup.

Yes tank is 100% correct on this. I have 4300k FutureVision HID's in my truck and they are great but the highs do take like 2-3 seconds to get warm and show my way. Honestly i will probably never use the highs, i just use my low and fog lamps all the time. Plus if you do a retrofit, their projectors have a wire on them where it moves a little plate inside the projector to make them high beams. IDK how well it works since mine isnt hooked up since i dont need to do that but im sure it would work great. Thats mainly for those ppl who have cars with just one bulb that performs as their low and high beams.

Thats cool. Thanks for teaching me that trick. I meant it though more for if it rains hard or something for the water to not pool up in the light, not them fogging up or anything. Either way thats a really cool trick, i wish i knew that with my old car that had dusty lens' on them

^^this. I have the same stupid design in my envoy. What i did was cut a hole through the rubber grommet that comes stock on the housing to set the grommet that the hid's come with, took the wire that was inside the headlight housing and wired it outside a little so i could plug it into my relay to energize and turn on the relay to operate both my hid's. Its not that hard to do but you do want to make sure that those connections if you choose to do the same thing i did are all sealed up. I bought some HVAC putty and put it around the connector that normally is inside the lights housing and connects to the back of the halogen bulb. You just need to disconnect that wire going to the stock halogen bulbs, route it so it either goes through the grommet to plug in externally to the housing, or run some wires and keep it housed inside the housing. Just make sure you seal it all up well or you will get moisture in your headlights.

I am familiar with how to hook up relays. Does the wire need to be hooked up so it is closed when i unlock the truck or open? What wire do i have to tap into, do you know? If you could tell me if it needs to be always open or always closed and what wire i need to tap into that would be great. Thank You

The problem with the brake is that i want the lights to NOT come on when i unlock the doors through my Viper 5901 remote. I have no problem with the daytime running lights since i did the mod to fix the voltage level as well as the relays to ensure i dont melt the tiny stock wiring harness for the headlights and i can provide enough power to the ballasts to kick them on.

I just put HID's on my 2004 GMC Envoy and whenever i unlock the truck and it is dark out so that the light sensor on my dash thinks it is dark out, my headlights and reverse lights illuminate on my truck. The problem with this is that whenever i unlock the truck and it turns on the headlights and reverse lights, the ballasts for my low beam HID's buzz to all hell since the voltage going into it is so low. I have relays hooked up to all of the HID's and i did the capacitor mod i found on Trailvoy but i wanted to see if i can disable the headlights from flashing and turning on whenever i unlock my truck. If i unlock the truck in a bright area the headlights dont illuminate, only my parking lamps flash to show me i unlocked/locked it. Please let me know if i can turn this off by programming it or if i need to do something else. I have programmed my alarm and tuned it several times so i am pretty comfortable doing it but am not sure what option if there is one i need to modify.

HOLY CRAP!!! i didnt even know they made engine pulleys bigger than the 5 rib i believe i have in my GMC now stock. You can get some serious power and a low amount of belt slip with that big ass pulley. Im hammering on my mechman 270 and it gets really hot (i was driving for 35 mins so idk if its engine heat too) but it never fails me. I can not say a single thing bad about this alt other than it being a pain to install but i have GM to thank for that. lol.

Alright, so yesterday i got my order in the mail for the entire futurevision HID kit for my truck. I have the projector lens for my low beams, hid for my fog and hid for my high beams. The one thing i was wondering is that with the low beam, the projector has a blue wire you can wire up so it can do your low and high beams. Since i am using it for just low beams do i need to worry about wiring this up? I dont have the 4 way light mod on my truck and dont plan to do this since i know id have no need for it. And yes i did send futurevision an email to see what they say for sure but i thought id ask you guys on here about it. Also, since i dont have enough room underneath my front headlights to mount all 3 ballasts on each side of the vehicle, will i be alright just zip-tieing them to the frame where my stock light housings clamp into place on the back part of it? Thanks as always for your help with my projects. lol.

Meade wont have the bass to knock her head straight, his will knock her head flat off her shoulders. lmfao!! Mine isnt as loud as his but it sure makes my eyes hurt when i have it up 3/4 for the bass.

Lets see who wants to fight first to kill me. Im not trying to go for psycho bitches. I just have the luck of them finding me and all that b.s. Im sometimes glad im single, i can fuck off when i want to and whatnot. But as my co-workers say, im a redneck. I love my truck more than anything else because im always working on it. lmfao. Hey why dont you try this to rid of her. If you have a good SPL setup, put her head in the port and crank the bass. Maybe you can get lucky and crack that last marble in her bird brain in half so she will just die. im such a dick.

If that happens, please let me know, i will totally rip her apart. lol

ROFL!!! If i knew her or you i would totally tell her. Just say "Yea, the NAVY seals didnt get Osama, they didnt look for me. Im the real Osama" lol. I blocked my recent ex and she got all pissed and her father and the one guy who conceived a kid with her were blocked. Well her dad apparently had another number and tried to text me on that since i didnt know that number to block. To this date they are still blocked and it has been almost a good month of peace and quiet from the psycho bitch. I still laugh my ass off everytime, "im going to sue you, see you in court" when she never met my ass once, knew where i lived more than in the western part of new york, knew my parents name, or anything like that to even be able to find me. The internet is good but good luck finding shit about me on it lol.

It shouldnt be that much to get it fixed. It wont hurt to make a post and ask about the repair cost, who knows maybe someone is local in your area and can cover the shipping to fix it.

Its too bad you arent near me. Id come over with this http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=Multi-Max and use the baseboard cutting tool to slice that screw in half. It would kill my blade since its made for wood not metal but it would still cut the screw either way. Another thing i thought of but i wouldnt do is to get something like a chisel and put it underneath the gasket of your sub and onto where the bolt is and get a hammer and wack at the screw enough to get it to break.

Make your bro grow up and pay for his damages Just make a post on here with what kind of amp you have and if anyone knows how to replace the gain knob on the amp. It shouldnt be that hard, the hardest part would be to find the SAME gain knob to put in. Other than that you just have to unsolder it and resolder a new one in.

I would try as someone else mentioned and use bolt cutters. If that doesnt work get a saws all and a SMALL blade made for cutting metal. If you can take all the other screws out and see if you can pull the subwoofer out of the enclosure a little. If you can put the saw blade underneath the lip of the landing zone for the surround and cut SLOWLY. It should cut the screw in half and you can pull the sub out. Luckily i didnt have this happen to me but when i put my SMD in my box, the damn t-nuts would fall out of the wood and at the bottom of the box so i had to take the sub in and out 5 times before i got pissed and walked away and my dad did it in 2 minutes Just see if you have enough room underneath the lip of the basket to get bolt cutters or a small saw blade under there. I would not take the saw on the area where the surround is because if the tip of the blade hits the edge of the surrounds landing zone it will kick the blade back and i guarantee you that you will slice your surround in the process.

Depending on what it is you can go to radioshack and get a new potentiometer for it and solder it in. Or maybe look into a amp repair shop to see how much they want to fix it or a new amp.

ROFL!!! how the hell can you do that? And i thought i got a little carried away with screws, i never snapped a gain knob b4 tho. lmao