kickass audio

Hey im a computer nerd and all that good stuff. How the hell did u mod the psu to get that much current out of it, let alone solder 8ga onto the board? Do you have any pics of how you modded it step by step? I have a 750w power supply for my amp in my room and i cant get more than 15 amps of power out of it for a split second before it kicks in the protection circuit on the psu and kills the power. PLEASE let me know how you did this as it would be greatly appreciated on my part!!

if you can look at the connector that goes into the h/u. Mine is in the shape of a U and the one side is flattened (has the push pin on it) If its anything else then it wont work on my h/u which sucks.

No problem James. Thanks again for the great sale!!

its worth a shot but i doubt it will work. I have an alpine iva-w205 h/u and i need to get a new ipod cord for my new system because the one i have was modded to work in a dock and it doesnt hold the ipod on the connector so when the bass hits, it rocks the damn ipod off the dock. Heres what i currently have according to crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127ICALPF/PAC-iPod-Control-Adapter-for-Alpine-Stereos.html?tp=120 I think the adapter on yours is different than mine but if its not i would take this off your hands. Also the model of the cord is different. Please let me know if we can get it to work or not.

Yes James is. He is a very stand up guy to buy from.

Alright, So even though he said it wasnt necessary im doing it anyways. I recently bought two bnib massive audio db8000's from James at Audio Innovations in Fresno, California. First of all he is a very detailed and helpful guy to go through. As i always do, i asked several questions to him about these amps to make sure these amps would work with my SMD and if i could strap them along with how many more d3100's i should run with these amps and he got back to me fast. Even with James working a lot he still got back to me in a timely manner. Also for the price on these amps i really think it was a great deal. So i was ready to pay him and then my truck decided to pull a GM move and break down so it was in the shop for a week. $1100 later i got the truck out of the shop but didnt have enough money to pay James in full for them. So me and James worked it out so that i would pay him half of the final sale and then when i get enough money i would pay him the rest and he would ship them both out to me to save money on his part and mine. And it took me a month and like 2 weeks to get the money to make the second and final payment for these amps and as promised James shipped them both out to me. The only problem is that i didnt get a tracking code but its not anything i really care about since he told me when he shipped them out so i figured i would get it after 5 business days and sure enough they came. I powered them up and they worked without any problems and just like he said were brand new in box right from Massive Audio themselves. So overall im very happy to have made this purchase through James since he was so patient and understanding to wait for me to get the money to get both the amps and actually save them for me and not re-sell. Thank you very much James for the great purchase, i hope to buy from you again in the future!!

my stetsom may be spoken for.

hey bro like i said ill go down in price. how about 300 shipped for it? Thats low as hell for a modded 2k6d.

i know this isnt what you were looking for but this is the vid i recorded late last year of it working on my solox in my truck. Ill still post those pics tonight after 9pm when i get home from work.

if you give me till tomorrow night i can post pics of it on here. im running the internet off my droidx via tether (the bad way) and its slow as hell at uploading stuff with so i prefer to upload it at home.

I have a stetsom 2k6d amp ill sell for $400 shipped to your door. Its rated to put out 2.6kw at 12.6v and 3kw rms at 13.8v. I have used this amp with my old kicker solox and it made that sucker SLAM. It is the 2 ohm version so it isnt made to be 1 ohm stable (it may handle it but i never tried it and dont plan on trying it). This amp was also modded so it doesnt have the internal fuse on it and you can ramp the voltage up to 15-16v to get somewhere around 3600w rms at 2 ohms. At least thats what ive read ppl rating it at with that high of a voltage. The amp is tiny as hell, for the power it puts out and it has a built in fan to keep it nice and cool. If you have an offer let me know too, ill take offers for it. And fyi, i never clamped this amp myself because when i ran it in my truck i never had a clamp meter but it didnt have a single bit of voltage drop with my 270 amp alt, xs power s3400 and d3100 batteries in the truck at all. Its supposed to suck somewhere around 170-200 amps of current but i never got around to test it since i fried my solox. haha. Anyways let me know.

Yea thats my bad. Ill at least say sorry about it. I really dont see how sending it more power will hurt. I have somewhat the same thing. My old 5.25" speakers are in my room on my surround sound with an extra subwoofer on that same channel. The surround sound is supposed to put out 40w rms per 7 channels but idk what it is for sure since i never clamped it or anything yet. Point is, the tweeter is i believe 10-15w rms so it is getting more power than it should but im still running the crossover it came with so its not a problem. All i really think you need to do is just get a good crossover on the tweeter so it has a steep slope to cutoff frequencies that the tweeter cannot support so you dont have a mid-range signal going to the tweeter. But thats all i have to say about it. It should be fine as long as your crossover is at a good setting.

ill use my shitty elevation audio sub that only has one coil connected to it. Also it will be a shitty box that i got for free from a shop just to have some bass in my car when i had it. Its so tiny that its not even funny. And op, sry bro. Ill stop this shit right here. Honestly i really dont see how sending more power to your speakers will kill them, as long as you prevent frequencies that are not supposed to play on that specific type of speaker from playing you should be fine. But then again what do i know.

go for it. obviously you'll be clamping the output from the amp to show the sub is actually getting 2500watts though. Hahaha you really want to challenge me bro? I have the scope and clamp meter for it all. I'll do it. Give me some time tho cuz i work too damn much and im not playing my system at night, the neighbors dont appreciate that too much. lmao. Edit: And just think im going to use my dc audio amp that puts out 175w per channel at 4 ohms, and i only have door speakers that handle 100w rms so i guess im going to blow them. NOT.

Thanks for chiming in. See like i said it is possible. Ive done it a lot before. I have blown plenty of speakers from overpowering them but i also didnt know how bad clipping was and had the magic smoke and smell of a coil going up in smoke. But hey it happens, what a better way to learn what to not do when your wallet loses some weight. lmao.

no 250watt sub will handle 2600watts, clipped or unclipped. as for the 3 way speaker setup, the tweeter won't get anywhere near the amount of power the mid and woofer are getting because of the crossover, some manufacturers will give the tweeters power handling with a specific crossover, such as this Peerless tweeter: http://www.d-s-t.com...less/811827.pdf which lists a "long term maximum system power" of 130watts, when realistically, the tweeter might handle 40watts. also, tweeters are more sensitive than mids and woofers, so you'll probably need to reduce the level (attenuate) of the tweeter so it doesn't sound harsh. winisd can calculate the component values for crossovers for you Oh really? Would you like me to prove you wrong? I put my 250w sub to the wall socket for fun and its dead but i have a 150w sub left and ill hook that to my 2600w amp if you want and get a vid of it. Its possible. Hell tons of ppl use bigger amps that put out more power than their subs are made to handle so if you think that just because you have a amp that is putting out more power than the sub is made for that you are going to blow the speaker you are wrong.

Rofl. Wtg Mr.p

go here, this is where i bought my tpi 440 scope from along with my clamp meter. http://www.testextra.com/tpi/pages/tpi_440_1mhz_handheld_oscilloscope_true_rms_dmm.htm Just that package comes with the scope, charger, test leads, test clamps, carrying case, rubber protective boot/stand, and manuals for it. Its only $299.99 and they have a damn good warranty for them and they shipped fast for me plus its really cheap if you ask me. I also bought this with it: http://www.testextra.com/tpi/pages/tpi_a296_ac_dc_clamp_on_high_current_probe_adapter.htm Its a clamp meter you can hook up to your oscope and use it to measure current draw in your ac and dc power lines. Its a necessary tool when you want to figure out impedance rise and how much current you are really drawing with your system. Plus its great to troubleshoot problems with current draw too. I got both those at the same time and it came with everything you need to get the job done. I use the scope all the time, more than i thought i would and its a great product. If you get it and need help using it give me a holler, ill help you out with it. Its super easy to hook up to, it even has a help button to tell you where you should have your leads connected on the unit and what range to start at before you test something. It is a really outstanding unit and i love mine.

Yea i agree with the above posts strongly. See if the guy has a oscope in his posession to test your gains for clipping. If you do it like meade has in the vids that were posted above then you should be fine. I have my stetsom 2k6d setup in my room and i clamped it at 2300w rms at 12v of power off my power supply i tore apart from my desktop. I am running that amp to a 10" kicker cvr and a 10" kenwood subwoofer. They are wired to 2 ohms and they are taking all the 2000w rms i set the amp up for. I set the gains all with the scope so it wont clip when i crank the volume so im running 2kw rms to subs that cant handle more than 800w rms in a pair. I would suggest to get a scope for yourself and set the gains if you dont really believe the guy at the shop doesnt have the expertise on how to set gains with a oscope. IDC who you are but setting your gains by ear is NOT AT ALL accurate as getting an scope. I thought i was really good for setting my gains by ear but when i took the scope to it, that signal was dirty as hell. If you lived near me i would come to your place and help you set it up with my scope. I bought the same one that meade uses in his vids and i also got the clamp meter for it too. I always recommend the scope because it is feature rich and a very good unit from what ive used so far. You can kinda ballpark your gains with the chart that is somewhere on here by getting a multimeter and setting the gains according to your ohm load and voltage but that isnt accurate because of impedance rise and all the other factors that can come into play.

you can use imageshack or photobucket. I personally use photobucket and when you post the pictures you just click on the little icon that says "insert image" in messages or on the forum and then copy and paste your link from photobucket into the box for it. its pretty easy to do. The only rule i can think of for a build on here is this... But for fiberglassing i have never done it before but i have been trying to catch everything i can about it. the biggest thing i can say is look at some of the member builds on here. some guys on here have a very detailed build log that you can read through and they describe everything in a lot of detail and even show a ton of pics of what it looks like throughout the entire process. One thing i would see about is if you have a good shop thats in your area see if they are cool and if they can teach you how to glass. The shop where i live is letting me use their term-lab for free and will even teach me how to glass and they do some beautiful custom builds themselves. It never hurts to ask.

damn. that sucks. Well maybe in the future ill man up and cut the dash and learn how to make a custom dashboard but until then i guess ill just stuck with my alpine being the screen. Good luck with sale

idk what you have for fuses in your fusebox but i tapped into one that was for my stock amplifier. You may also have one for a power antenna. Just get a multi meter if you have one and take the negative and put that to the ground and then take the positive and tap the metal tabs of the fuses until you find one that has no power when the keys are out of the ignition. Then have a friend of yours turn the key on and off to see if the power goes on and off. If it does than that would be a good fuse to tap into but do NOT tap into fuses with major components like your fuel pump or something like that. dont want to take a chance at messing up the major components of your vehicle.

Oh ok, are you using a stock radio or something? Do you not have the blue wire in your wire harness? If you have an aftermarket radio and it doesnt have a remote wire then i would try and tap into an accessory wire. My 2004 envoy didnt have an accessory wire for my radio to switch on when i turned the key so i got a fuse tap and tapped into the fuse box to where i found a source that would turn on when i turned the key in the ignition. Or if you want to do it a little easier get a micro switch at radioshack or your local car parts store and wire one of those up so when you throw the switch the amp turns on.

there isnt a remote wire connection on this amp?? what the... Thats very strange. I highly doubt this turns on by sensing if there is power going into the inputs of the amp but it could. What kind of amp is this along with the model?

ok well im not going to get into a pissing match with you but what i thought he meant was that he doesnt have to ground the batteries at all in the rear which is why i said he has to ground them. My bad for not reading it completely.