kickass audio

you can use imageshack or photobucket. I personally use photobucket and when you post the pictures you just click on the little icon that says "insert image" in messages or on the forum and then copy and paste your link from photobucket into the box for it. its pretty easy to do. The only rule i can think of for a build on here is this... But for fiberglassing i have never done it before but i have been trying to catch everything i can about it. the biggest thing i can say is look at some of the member builds on here. some guys on here have a very detailed build log that you can read through and they describe everything in a lot of detail and even show a ton of pics of what it looks like throughout the entire process. One thing i would see about is if you have a good shop thats in your area see if they are cool and if they can teach you how to glass. The shop where i live is letting me use their term-lab for free and will even teach me how to glass and they do some beautiful custom builds themselves. It never hurts to ask.

damn. that sucks. Well maybe in the future ill man up and cut the dash and learn how to make a custom dashboard but until then i guess ill just stuck with my alpine being the screen. Good luck with sale

idk what you have for fuses in your fusebox but i tapped into one that was for my stock amplifier. You may also have one for a power antenna. Just get a multi meter if you have one and take the negative and put that to the ground and then take the positive and tap the metal tabs of the fuses until you find one that has no power when the keys are out of the ignition. Then have a friend of yours turn the key on and off to see if the power goes on and off. If it does than that would be a good fuse to tap into but do NOT tap into fuses with major components like your fuel pump or something like that. dont want to take a chance at messing up the major components of your vehicle.

Oh ok, are you using a stock radio or something? Do you not have the blue wire in your wire harness? If you have an aftermarket radio and it doesnt have a remote wire then i would try and tap into an accessory wire. My 2004 envoy didnt have an accessory wire for my radio to switch on when i turned the key so i got a fuse tap and tapped into the fuse box to where i found a source that would turn on when i turned the key in the ignition. Or if you want to do it a little easier get a micro switch at radioshack or your local car parts store and wire one of those up so when you throw the switch the amp turns on.

there isnt a remote wire connection on this amp?? what the... Thats very strange. I highly doubt this turns on by sensing if there is power going into the inputs of the amp but it could. What kind of amp is this along with the model?

ok well im not going to get into a pissing match with you but what i thought he meant was that he doesnt have to ground the batteries at all in the rear which is why i said he has to ground them. My bad for not reading it completely.

Ok its no problem. like i said, use the rca's if you have them, if not then the high level input will get the job done.

Umm hello did you bother to look at the pics i posted? It shows the option to either ground to the chassis or to get a direct ground from front to rear battery. I was giving him two choices which will work just as well but with a different price range.

Yes. But if your radio has rca outputs i highly recommend using them instead of the high level inputs on the amp. It sounds better from what ive experienced. But in your case, if you look at the connector how it says 1, 2, 3 and 4 going from left to right and the top row says + and the bottom row says - . This means that lets say you want your driver side front door speaker to be channel one. You would connect the positive of that speaker wire to the top left corner of the input which is channel 1 positive. Then for your negative of that SAME speaker you would put it on the bottom right connection which would be channel 1 negative. Just keep doing that step for all the channels you want to use and you will be all set.

yes. the speaker level input is used when you dont have a radio with rca wires. if you do have a radio with rca connections then use that. the high level is basically taking your speaker wires in the doors and trunk and hooking them to the input.

Heres what i came up with, sorry for the quality being so crappy. I couldnt figure out how to get a jpeg of the drawing i made in word so i just took a pic of it off my droid. This is the drawing as if you were going to ground your batteries to the chassis/frame of your vehicle And this would be if you wanted to bypass grounding to your chassis and connect cables together from all your negatives of the batteries. This is recommended a little more than the first one but it will cost a bit more and will be a little harder to install.

thanks i appreatie alot pm to me if you like i gotta take my lil brother to the park,guy walkin on a stroller ftw for the ladies lol rofl. idk about you but pushing a kid isnt gonna get you da cats if u know what i mean hahaha. It only gets them to look at the little one and go "awwwwww so cute" lmao. But yea ill pm it to you and post it on here when its done. Enjoy your walk and babysitting XD

lol, no problem. yea there is more than you think with car audio and electrical stuff than you would think. It takes a lot of time and sometimes money to learn how to do it right. haha. trust me i have wasted a ton of money on breaking stuff for not knowing how to do things right the first time around but hey live and learn ya know. Just give me a little bit and ill post a pic of it for you.

so your saying i could give each d3100 its own chasis ground but it wont be nesscary? but as for the left d3100 + goin to the right d3100 + it should be fused? and also does the left d3100 have to ran to the d1200? since i already ran it do the right d3100 so im assuming the alt is goin charge all 3? or ethier way its still better to run both d3100 to the d1200 in the front? For grounding your d3100's you MUST ground it to your chassis. If you dont ground it to your chassis or to any negative terminal of your cars alternator or frame then your amps will be running straight off battery power and will die and fuck your amps up. What id do is to do this... For your amps, take the grounds on them and hook them on top of the negative terminals of the batteries. And have a ground wire going from your negative terminals of your batteries to the frame of your vehicle. Just by hooking your positive wire from the front battery to your rear battery wont charge the rear batteries up at all since its not a completed circuit. You need to complete the circuit by grounding each battery in the rear to your frame. Now for the positive wire going from the d3100 on the left to the d3100 on the right you need to fuse the wire on both sides. So put a fuse about 1-2 feet away from the positive terminal of the left d3100 and put another fuse 1-2 feet away from the positive terminal of your d3100 on the right. The point in doing this is so if for example i slice your positive wire going from the left 3100 to the right 3100 and it touches a ground point of your vehicle it will stop the power flow between the wire. If you use only one fuse, then that one fuse after a little while will blow but all the power on the un-fused side will keep flowing and flowing and flowing until you run out of juice and for a d3100 thats a shit load of power. And finally for your left d3100 you do not need to hook that to your d1200. Theres no point in that. Just connect the positive wire of your left d3100 to the positive terminal of your right d3100 and fuse it on both sides and call it a day. Then for both the d3100's just ground them to your chassis. It is better to have a second power wire going from front to back or if possible get a dedicated ground wire since grounding your frame is only going to allow so much power to go through it all. What im going to do this summer (as much it was a pain in my ass to run a power wire through the firewall) im going to get a dedicated ground wire going from the negative terminal of my front battery in the engine to the negative terminal of my rear battery. This should help current travel a lot better since its a direct ground to your vital electronics. If you want i can draw you a better diagram and show you what you should do if you want?

Youre welcome. Its more preference. When i did my system i had the fuses on every single power wire for my amps. For the power wire that goes from the front to rear battery i have it fused with a 300 amp fuse on both sides of the wire. My alt i did NOT fuse at all, theres no point in my eyes to do it, its protected enough for me but oh well. Its personal preference. Most alternator guys say to never fuse your alt as it can affect how much current it can pass and all that so thats the big reason i didnt fuse that wire. Other than the alternators charge wire, all my other positive wires are fused. Hell even my fosgate 3sixty.2 will be fused with a 15 amp fuse. lol.

For your fuses make sure you have a fuse on BOTH SIDES of the power wire going from the front to rear batteries and on both sides of the power wire going from the one d3100 to the other d3100. If you fail to do this you can short out your wire, blow one of the fuses but all the power on that other side of the wire will keep flowing and burn your car right up. Take it from the guy who didnt do that and almost lost his car. lol. As for grounding the amp to the battery directly. I have done both grounding to the battery and then grounding to the chassis with the same amp, box, alt, subs, everything and didnt notice any difference other than it was easier to do. Im going to have 4 power wires going right to the positive of my rear battery and 4 going to the ground of the battery. If you try to put 3 of those grounds which are my 3 amps onto a grounding point of the vehicle it would be a lot harder to do than to just go to the battery. I find it easier to go to the battery and do it than to the grounding point.

What i think you have is what i had with my dads woofer when i repaired his surround on it after 20 years it deteriorated. I got the surround fixed by yanking the surround off my kicker CVX's and unstitched them as well but i noticed that since the speaker hasnt been used in 5 years the spider had a off center pattern where it wanted the cone to travel. So what i did (you cant do this with your kickers since those asshole engineers made the cone in two pieces that are sewn together and glued together) but i had to pop off his dust cap and center the cone and glue the surround in that spot and leave it sit that way for 3 days before it took the new position. It didnt have any coil rub but when you had low bass noes hit it, you could hear like a whistling/growling noise from the inside of the former. Sure enough after i readjusted the speaker it worked fine ever since. Now my dad has a badass looking 12" subwoofer that has a magnet the size of a midrange speaker. rofl. But hey it works perfectly and for him its more than he would ever use. What i would try is to possibly push slowly and gently on one side of the cone. DO NOT use a ton of force to crack the cone or anything like that. Just a little bit of pressure until you feel or hear the voice coil tap the former inside the basket. Then do that to the opposite side of the subwoofer and keep doing that by working your way around the woofer. If you seem to notice that if you are one side and do this that it hits the former quicker than the other side then it means your speaker is slightly off center. If it wasnt for me cooking my CVX's like i did, i would give them to you for just the price of the shipping. But now all i have left of them is the basket and motors. Let me know how it turns out!!

For the touch screen is there an easy way i can get a screen that big to fit into the dash of my 2004 Envoy without having to cut it apart? Also what would you want for the screen if you are willing to part with it to get it fixed as well? I really want to stay away from modding my dash and all that for it but i wanted to get a touch screen to control my laptop when i put that in my truck behind the dash. Let me know please!

and edit: Your ground to go from your alternators ground post to the engine block is totally useless to do. Just go from either your engines alternator ground point to the negative of your battery or take a grounding point from your engine to the negative of your battery. Either way it will be a good grounding point.

Honestly you can be perfect just grounding from your alts ground to the negative of your battery(s). The engine is grounded through the alternator as it is and stock from the factory they have a dedicated ground to your frame/fender, and another ground dedicated to your starter motor. And in all honesty your engine is already grounded to the alternator since the bolts for your alternator go straight through the engine block. What i did with my truck was to unscrew a long as hell bolt on the engine block and ground to that and grind the block a little bit until it had a smooth finish on it then i put the ground wire for the engine on that bolt and took it to the negative of my battery. I find it was a lot easier than to use the bolt that goes into the side of my engine to hold my alt in since my air compressor line is right on top of those bolts and its a pain in the ass to get to. What id do if you have one is when you do your grounds, grab a digital multi meter and check your resistance with the grounds. To do this, take one of the probes and put it on the area where you are about to mount the ground on your engine and take the other probe and put it on the negative of your battery. It should read a value of 0 ohms to .1 ohms. Nothing more. If it is higher then you have a lot of resistance in your grounds and should trace some major ground points to see if they are rusted/corroded and clean them up as needed. But either way it doesnt really matter too much what bolt you take to ground the engine block off to, it is highly recommended to use the ground off your alternator since it is a lot easier to get to and connect to but if you choose to then its not a problem. As long as you either ground to your alternators ground post or to the engine block itself then you will be all set.

From what i have seen it only happens if you send it a clipped signal. I had a 250w rms subwoofer hooked up to a 2600w rms amp without any problems. I even had it at full tilt but didnt have any clipping what so ever going out of the amp. If you have it, set everything with an oscope. Its the best thing you can do for yourself, your wallet, and your equipment. Settings gains with your ear is never going to work. lol. Also just make sure you use the crossovers without any questions. You dont need to have a bass signal hit the tweeter or you can blow them fast. Id recommend somewhere around the 1.5KHz and above for the crossover point on the tweeters if i were you.

Congrats on getting rid of the stones without having to pass them. I hope i never get kidney stones myself but if i do ill have to give that a shot because i love lemons too. lol. I have surprisingly never heard of the lemon juice trick to dissolve stones so thats pretty cool.

Alright everyone, its that time again. Stupid question time. lol. So as you can read i have a 2004 GMC Envoy that is the base model. Nothing too special about it other than a few things here and there. I plan to put sound deadener up the ass in this truck because first it is loud as hell for road noise and second i want to help keep it as cool as possible in the interior in the summer time. Now i have never and i repeat NEVER removed a head liner (if thats what you call the fabric/cardboard stuff that goes on the interior side of your roof) and i want to remove that and put deadener (really leaning toward second skin damp-pro for it all) but im not sure how to remove that stupid thing without ruining anything or bending the headliner or destroying any wires up there. Can someone please help me with how to remove the headliner on my truck? Also i need to have this done in like a days time (one day to remove and another day to put it back in there) because i use this as my daily driving vehicle to go to work and school with. Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks!!

Bret, Sorry bro CJ did sell his t1652-s's to me. I got the last two he had. Sorry for the wrong information on it. I didnt know for sure if he had his yet or not. Good luck with finding them

yeah i cant remember if he did or not. If i see him on here ill ask him for you if you want. I bought both my sets from him a few months back so he may have sold them but idk for sure.