kickass audio

For your budget as much as i hate to say this hit up your local shop and see if they have some RF, Tsunami, old school audiopipe (their old lineup was a lot better than their current wire plus it was OFC, now its that CCA crap) and see if they can cut you a deal. I have a pretty good friendship with 3 local shops around me and i get some damn good deals from them.

Dont get CCA, get OFC cable. It handles current better and tbh it only costs a little more and is worth it. I have tsunami competition OFC wire for my entire big-3 upgrade and it is 99.999% tinned copper wire. The only problem with it is the jacket is stiff so its hard to route around but all i do for that is throw my wire on the back roof of my shed and let it sit in the sun for a hour and it bends with ease when warm. Rockford Fosgate wire is another one i use and it is also great too. The price for KNU wire and their strand count is where its at. This is the wire you should really consider getting: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX0BK Their KCA lineup will get the job done but the OFC makes a better connection and transfers more power.

Sorry this amp has been sold awhile ago. Mods please lock this thread.

cool thanks for telling me that. I still wont slam on it with my smd from how far that my windshield will flex when i go full tilt. I miss my OEM windshield, that glass barely moved at all and my mirror button stayed on just fine. Oh well.

^^just what he said. My dc 5k sparks really bad when i put the fuse in the anl fuse holder and i always expect it but it still makes you jump because of how loud and bright it is. Just look over every connection on that wire to make sure no strands are loose or about to ground out before you pop that fuse in and you will be all good.

Pretty much. Its like your engine runs fine with no extra strain on it but then you put that huge load on it from the alternator trying to charge with its slow speed. The RPM drops down too far and it doesnt have enough motion and force to keep the engine running so it just shuts down. Its not stalling or anything just powering off.

Yeah im not worried about it though. Lifetime warranty on the glass and labor from the shop that put it in and my insurance covers glass 100% so im set. lol. You will be fine though just go easy shutting the doors and dont slam on the sub for a week and it will set just fine. I did mine all in the winter we just had and it was 20 degrees outside and it worked just fine.

They may when they install it at the glass shop. The glass shop near me had my truck for a hour and a half before i could go pick it up every time i had it installed. If you follow the glass down past the plastic trim where my defroster vents sit and the wiper arms are there are little rubber slats that the glass sits on however the stock glass is the only thing that touches the very bottom of that stopper, the aftermarket glass i had put in (different brands,stock one was a pilkington, first one was not stamped to show the name, second one was a pilkington) was not as long as the OEM glass so it sits about 1/2 of a inch up from the ledge built into my panel. Everything else fits just fine and i have had no problems with it leaking or anything.

I had 3 windshields put in my truck and i waited a full week before i started playing my sub and closing the doors like normal. For that first week after its installed i had it sit in the sun but it was during the middle of winter so i wanted the bead to get warm and adhere well. I also would close my doors very slowly and usually bump them with my hip to close the latch all the way because if you shut them like normal it will build up pressure in the cabin and that can pop the seal on the window. Even though there are vents in the cabin it still builds up pressure from slamming the doors and stuff. A week should be more than enough time for you especially if its warm out. Also one little side note is be careful of putting your mirror back on and slamming on it with your bass. I went through 2 windows alone due to the adhesive the mirror button was held on with being so poor it broke off and every time i had it reglued it would take a chunk of glass with it.

hahahaa.

If my 2.2L with a 270 amp singer alt doesn't die, I'm sure his is fine lol. c-fizzy its strange. Sometimes it does it, most of the time it doesnt do much but just make your rpms jump around with your current being drawn. When i demo my truck for people i usually have it off but most of the time its turned on but just sitting at idle and it never shuts off. I only had it shut off twice on me at idle. I have a small engine for an suv and its a 4.2l straight 6 and its a beautiful engine but it still has a damn good amount of power behind it so its not the matter of the engine. Its just the point of your rpm being down very low, that high stress and resistance for the load the alternator is being presented and the other loads from the rest of the accessory drive belt system that turn the engine off.

Yup then you cant really do much about that. Mine is intermittent when it happens but you cant really stop that from happening. A majority of the time i can slam at idle and be fine, my rpm just goes up and down a ton between notes from there being strain and no strain on the alt. I never recommend bumping at idle because first of all you cant get full output from your alt at idle, second with the alt spinning that slow it isnt getting enough spin to keep the internal fans spinning to cool it down, the strain on the alt at idle can actually burn it out, doing it around people at an intersection is just retarded and is a reason why most people hate us for having systems. Having that small pulley doesnt really do much to help this at all. That just means that you dont have to rev your engine up as high to get the alternators rotor to spin and achieve full output.

When it died were you at a stop or actually driving it around? Ive stalled my truck twice since i had my 270 mechman unit in it from slamming hardcore at a redlight because the guy next to me wanted to hear it. It didnt shutter or anything it just was like i took my key and turned it to off. I idle at like 650rpm so that isnt much to make my alt spin and keep charging so when i put that high strain on the alt from going full tilt it took my engine speed and dropped it down so far it shut the engine down. I get this when im driving around and stop giving my engine gas and watch the rpm needle. If i were to take my music and pause it then wait a few seconds and play it at full tilt you will see my rpm drop and go back up from the strain it put on my alt. I like to keep my music down low at lights for the reason of not pissing everyone else around me off and that if i dont have my foot pounding down on that brake pedal and the rpm drops and goes up it will creep my truck forward some.

If i was going to remove it or anything i would but i wont be doing that so theres not any need for molex. Good idea though. I just wanted to see if there were any plugs i can just insert into the stock harness within the dash and that go in the back of the controls.

bump. Anyone know anything about doing this? i know plenty of people have relocated stuff in their dash.

I dont wax by hand like you do however i always use an applicator pad by hand and i can tell if there is something wrong since ive been waxing vehicles and everything since i was like 7. I can even feel the slightest little dirt mark on the body when i run the pad across it and its easy to see when the wax is on it and there is a spot that is darker than the rest. I have used an orbital buffer that spins back and forth before but only to remove wax, never to apply it. I dont trust myself with the big and heavy buffer my dad has for not holding it up enough or digging into the body and waxing the paint right off. lol. My dad did that once on my moms old car and that wasnt good. edit: If anyone cares i use nothing but meguiars for my paint cleaner, polish and carnuba wax for my vehicles. I only use the paint cleaner once a year in the spring time, the rest of the time i judge it because i put 2-3 coats of wax on the body when i do it and that is 3 times a year that i wax it. I always do it right before winter time so the snow just flies right off the vehicle when i brush it. Then i clean, sometimes polish or just jump to 2-3 coats of wax in the spring to get rid of the scratch marks the snow brushes left on the clear coat and to clean it up nice from that damn new york state road salt.

Alright everyone i have a project for myself to get my new carputer, touchscreen and for what i played with today only a single vu-din installed in my dash. What i need to do is take my headunit and ditch it (planned on that anyways and use the carputer for everything) then to take my a/c controls and relocate them to inside my center console. I was originally just going to cut the wires one at a time and extend them to the length i needed however i wanted to see if there was anything easier. Does anyone know if i can get like a direct connect harness that plugs into the stock electrical plug on my HVAC control center and i can extend it then plug it back into the rear of the HVAC control center? Like to put it this way i know you can get the male and female connections for headunits, do they have the same thing for the a/c control center on my truck? Id need the female one to plug into the stock harness in my dashboard, run the length of wire i need off that harness and then connect it to the male version of that harness then plug it into my a/c control center. If anyone can help me out with this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone ahead of time.

Thank you Torres, i was trying to think of the name of that port style but you knew it lol.

That port design to me wouldnt work well. First of all the inner part of that port isnt going to be screwed down at all and braced so it will move in the box under pressure. Second for only one part on the front of the box bracing the port it will not hold that much pressure of the box being pressurized of the subs moving and will break it off. You need a port that is not any bigger than the wall of the box you install it on. Just like what Meade has in his tahoe. You want to have it so that the port is like suspended inside the box. I.E. not touching any of the other walls.

All you do is kinda make like a flush mount for it so you will need to double up the side you wish to put the port on so that one part of it will always be installed and house the t-nuts you secure the port to when installed. Its kinda hard to explain but basically make the port how you want for the width, depth, height, etc and then you secure that to a board that is the size of the flush mount you made on the box and thread it in. Think of it like this. For the part you brace the port to, that extra area on the box that is recessed needs to be occupied by the outer part of the port so that it is pretty much all one piece. If you look up RAM Designs on Facebook you can see some designs he made with removable ports and see how they all have like a ledge on them that is where it fits in the recessed area of your box and bolts in. edit: here is one pic off his fb page he has: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=349269555094920&set=a.211000055588538.52999.210979035590640&type=3&theater You can see the recessed area where the port sits in and gets bolted down.

Thats about what i get when im using my dads. Ill take it. Idk if you want to send me the request for money or for me to send the money to you but my paypal is [email protected] If you are sending the payment request just let me know what your first name will show as (if its not jeff like your name on here shows lol) and ill get it to you. Thank You!!

Hey man, i am very interested in that camera. How is the battery life on it? Are the two batteries extended life or normal battery life? I cant quite see from the reflection but what size card is that? My dad has an evolt e-300 and that is a nice SLR camera but yours would be perfect for my needs in a SLR camera. Please let me know!! Thank you.

No problem man. If you do decide to re-wire you keep everything how it is but for the trigger wire on the relay just wire that to a switch that is connected direct to the positive of your battery terminal. I didnt try it with mine so i dont know if that would correct it but i tried everything to troubleshoot mine but that. New relays, new bulbs, new ballasts, everything and nothing worked. Also for my DRL where they are supposed to buzz when they are on but i never ran into that problem. The only time i had that was when i unlock my truck at night after i just shut it off. The relay for the alarm doesnt provide enough current to fully energize my hid ballasts so one of the relays will buzz to all hell before it just shuts off from timing itself off. Like i said i only had that problem if it was really cold outside like less than 20 degrees farenheit outside. Once they were hot and warmed up id have 0 issues turning them off and firing them back up again.

I have that in the winter time when i ran my 50w ballasts for the low beams but only because my voltage was up in the 15's. If i shut my truck down the voltage would drop and the lights worked just fine. I tried the capacitor mod for the DRL circuit with no success and i have had 4 different relays for the truck too with nothing. When i went back to my 35w ballasts it rarely happened and when it did i just turned my knob to the off position, waited a minute and fired the lights back up and both kicked on. That only happened with my low beams though, never with my fogs. I was about to just bypass the stock switching system and run my own toggle switches but never did that as i didnt think they provided enough voltage to energize the circuits and fully activate the relays.

They wont melt your housing as long as they arent super close to the reflector or lens itself. I have projectors on my truck and was for a few months running them at 50w and the projector is so close to my lens that it melted them and made a bubble in the clear lens but never broke through or cracked it. The brightness is pretty noticable between 35w and 50w but i wouldnt do 50w for your low beams, id do 50w for the high beams and maybe fogs if you use them ONLY in fog. I have my low beams in my headlights installed in futurevision HID projectors (installing hid's in a stock housing is just retarded and will scatter and look like shit) and my fog lights are in the stock housing because i couldnt get them uninstalled to retrofit them but they are both 35w bulbs and 35w ballasts. My high beams are in the stock reflector housing since they are rarely ever used as my hid's by themselves shine for 3-4 blocks and they are 35w bulbs and are ran off a 50w ballast. Dont do this all the time because that increase in power will kill the lifespan of your hid bulb. Also the biggest thing to worry about with hid's is melting your stock wire harness. Get a relay kit for EVERY ballast you run as to not melt your stock wiring since hid's draw a ton of power to kick on but once they are lit they dont draw much.