Soulman07

Get the exact model of the amp and let us take a look at it

Yeah, be careful with the tweeters though. I've popped a few at 2ohms in the past. Make sure you put some kind of bass blocker on them otherwise they might give.

They should let blackwater handle it... trigger happy mercenaries ftw

Sounded like the culprit from what you had first described. Glad everything is back up and running.

I used RC cars as a metaphor, you are getting confused. He stated the option was 2 alts and a 16v battery bank or 3 alts and a 12v system after the whole stepdown transformer situtation played out. You must not have read the entire thread and the direction it was headed in. I'm not trying to bust anyone's balls or come across as a smart ass. Drop all your what's the most convenient way point of view and think about his original post which said this will be for a competition vehicle. If he's going to drop this much cash on gear why not push it to it's limits that seems to be his mindset as well. Aside from that, mechman was pointing out the fact that his unit already comes with an adjustable regulator on the back of it. Something I had no knowledge of while stating that any alternator can use an adjustable regulator. If he were to go with 3 alternators and a 12volt setup, They'll be able to efficiently handle all the power the amp is capable of drawing at maybe 15 volts or so. Thing about that is he won't get to peak the 11,000 watts the amp is capable of even with having three alternators. It'll be very consistent though at what it does on the 12volt system. He wants to push the limitations of his gear, plain and simple. I'm just stating suggestions from experience.

Yeah it'll be as close as you'll get to perfection with it! I'd get the highest rated alternators that'll fit and roll with the adjustable regulator that you can control from inside to cab to save you time considering the internal adjustables are a biznitch to get to sometimes.

If you had a choice to use 12volt batteries or 16volt batteries for your race car. And the 16volt would increase your speed by 33% and give you more power to go up the slope which would you choose? 500-600 amps worth of power on a 16volt system is more than sufficient I'd think for an 8.1. Provided that he has a good amount of batteries. Later on with adding another he'll experience some voltage drops from having two I'm sure, but even at that he won't be dipping down into 11-13 range on 16 volt batteries, which still equals more power.

Less confusion and less $$$$ in the long run. You'd always have the option to get an adjustable regulator for those alternators though. So it's not really a total loss. Two high output units charging a 16v battery bank vs 3 12 volt high output units is the simple question man. I'm no math wiz but, I'd go with the bank of 16 volt batteries and two alternators myself personally. A 4 volt difference goes aloooooooooooooooooooooooooong way on the meter

Not necessarily a 18+ volt alternator, just an external regulator that's adjustable. Most you can adjust from 13-20. Most cars come factory with what? 70-100 amp alternators? The idea of daisy chaining a few stepdown modules vs replacing batteries seems a bit more logical to me.

More volts = more power! plain and simple! Just make sure you wire everything up appropriately, Most cars have a 16v limit as far as voltage would go. I know nothing about the kinetik 16 volt batteries but I've seen other people use step down modules for 16-12. I've also heard a few people at my local shop say that said that the batteries swell up over time using both sides. They ran into a ton of warranty issues with the swelling and stopped selling the the 16s. They still stock normal sizes though, I have yet to hear any horror stories about powermaster batteries(as far as this forum and ca.com goes) You would need a stepdown module then. Which would probably be best anyway. Edited to correct I've also heard a few people at my local shop say that said that the batteries swell up over time using both sides.

Some are pressurized even higher at idle.... I'd take it to a mechanic and have them to a pressure check on it. I have a 97 astro was the same, It would start with a shot of ether in the intake and run. Wouldn't start when you crank it though. Fuel pump wasn't putting out enough PSI to start or keep it running for long. If it was working before and not working now It may be something simple causing it. Make sure you are getting power to the fuel pump. An there should be a fuel pump fuse/relay somewhere in your vehicle

I'd like to know who builds us amps boards... I have yet to find another manufacture using the same board with their latest and greatest... I sat in a RE extended cab truck that had a blow through and he said he's done a 153 off of 4 se 12's and 3000 rms this past weekend too... After listening to a 40hz test tone in it I wouldn't doubt it was a 153 either ... I'm straight spoiled

That's to the rear battery bank actually. Not directly to the amplifier, The amp would feed off of the rear battery. I think you said stock alt and battery, so one run of wire should do since you don't have any additional batteries. I'd look into getting one though!

He just means that you are overloading the wire and that you could have SERIOUS electrical issues on your hand within the near future. Anytime you go over 1000RMS(some cars I would do it over 500 anyway) you are suppose to upgrade your stock electrical wire to 0 gauge. Most of us in increments of 1000 double the runs of wire to keep the load down. So you are actually pushing your factory accessories off of the wire and then the system too which is a major problem when it comes to keeping your voltage high enough to run everything properly. Your amp isn't going to do it's rated power and you could risk frying it because your voltage will dip too low. Whoever installed it for you could have mentioned it or if you did you should have done a bit more research on the matter. It's not going to do anything close to 2000watt RMS at 1ohm though that's out of the question. Only way to tell would be to clamp it

Yeah, What kind of alarm is it? Did you add any additional sensors? I'm paranoid for the same reason... I had my car broken into and stripped once outside of work within a 15 minute interval of going to break and getting off of work... That's just how shady it was... I spend around 650 a few weeks later on the 791xv, and all of the accessories that comes with it. Anyone walks within 12 inches of my car the dual zone senor alerts me on the remote. I want something with a bit more range on it so I'll probably get an SST model soon. Alarms don't really work unless someone around you that knows hears it and cares. So the remotes notifying you of it would be your best bet. Sorry that something like that happened, my sisters boyfriends car got rim jacked... even with locks on. He was parked on curve slanting downward and they still left him on 4 jack stands... DEI alarms I love because there's a sensor for every damn thing... Sorry that happpened to you though man, I understand how you feel.

Some women have a ton of insecurities when it comes to guys after being done wrong a few times. It's normal, I don't think you'd care too much unless you have some damning evidence in there that you don't want her to find..lol. If you trip over it then she feels like there's something to hide. Either way, almost everyone will have insecurities when things are going good... It seems like life in reverse but that's just the way shit is from my experience. I say just leave shit be, if going through your phone to find nothing damning is what she needs to do then let it be. If you have nothing to hide then eventually she'll stop and won't even continue on with doing it over time. The care free attitude we express at time drives them MAD!!!! lol it's hilarious, I could tell you stories for hours.................................................. In any event, not that big of a deal unless you hiding 9 other women on the side and have them on speed dail... hehe Trust starts at the bottom and works it's way up. 10 months is forever to us... My parents have been together for like 30 years, and there's still shit that they don't know about one another.

You have to put a load on the batteries to see how low it dips... You can buy a meter yourself or have them load test it for you at an autoparts store. Most of the time if they dip below 8 volts during the load test it isn't recommended to continue on with using them because they won't store their power for very long even after charging them. At that time you would want to look into replacing them.

I usually use a load meter on them. I own a 125amp load meter and a 50. Some of the acid batteries I've tested will dip into the 10 -11volt range upon start up which is the norm. Anything below 8 volts= failure issues. most good battery chargers will let you now after a few minutes of being on the trickle. Autozone does free battery charging here too. Get a load meter to test them yourself for future reference. Or you can go to autozone/oreily and they'll put one on it for you.

Squeal? Usually caused by it slipping, belt dressing worked for me though. Only time it squeals is on start up when the back side of the belt would rub the idler pulley though. Replacing the belt actually solved my problem though. It all started after the tensioner broke though

All good, had a freaking blast!!! Too bad we couldn't get any videos of the tahoe though... You started off my bass headache for the day..lol good shit though

Oh, add me to the list

I had an MLA @ 15.3. The texas heat owned me.... I would dip to 14.4 after 20 minutes of driving with ac on and system at an acceptable level. I switched to an external regulator and mounted it within the car itself, It's adjustable from 13-16. I set it at 15.3 and just to put it to the test I drove 150 miles round trip to visit with the folks in another city. About 75 miles each way.. At an average speed of around......82mph;). Coolant levels were in the 240 degree range. Usually with the MLA and internal regulator on long trips it'd actually drop into the high 13s once the engine got warmed up, the voltage regulator would literally go into protect mode at times because it exceeded the a safe zone temperature. I don't know how your car is. Mine has about 1/4 worth of an inch of clearance from the intake manifold. An that gets HOT on a good day, anyways the external regulator in my glove box made all the difference in the world. Whatever the setpoint is at... it stays.

It wasn't professionally tuned if you are maxing out at 8/40 unless your head unit clips at 8 which I highly doubt. Something they didn't do right would be the only explanation to it. If you turn the volume past that do you hear clipping?

The 427 TT is insane... I sat in the CF version at a show and almost had and accident man... Those things are INSANE!!! They do high 8's in the 1/4th if I remember correctly

The comment you made could go as a compliment or an insult to most, virtual DJ is limited in many ways when it comes to screwing the music. If you listened to two different songs slowed by the same rate without heavily modifying the pitch, you'd actually understand what he's saying. It's kind of biased because you seem like you haven't tested many other applications. Screwlab was a neat little program I use to have for screwed/chop music. You'd have to sample the water with a few different one's to understand though man