skittlesRgood

hold on now. are you running these wires to a back battery or do they run straight to the amp? if they run to the amp, put a 300amp fuse on the wire close to the battery. then put a 150amp fuse on each wire close to the amp. otherwise you have a 600amp fuse running to your amp. or you could just run the 300amp fuses and itll only protect against a fire. it wont protect your amp. its always a good idea to fuse the alt + as well. the idea here is to protect against a fire. if that + wire grounds out, itll dump a TON of current.

hmm... not sure whats going on. mine turns up all the way.

looks good. bass boost all the way down?

yes, thats the knob im talking about. so what was the output voltage when you set your gain? was the amp under load when you set it? what tone did you use?

did you really just put the DD Z in a list with a JL W7????

but those include the amp and box. so its not like its 12k for the sub.

do you know how to set the gain? did you use a DMM or an o-scope? if you need a lesson on how to set it i can help you out. but yes, when it stops getting louder, its because your clipping. it means you set the gain on the amp too high. but, if you dont believe me, turn that remote all the way up, go full tilt on your HU and play it for 10min. i bet you'll smell something stinky.

its not a volume knob, its a gain. very different. the reason it wont get any louder is because you are going into clipping. thats very, very bad.

i have 1500w to my xl's are they sing pretty damn good. he could always get another 3k later.

huh???

could be that your started is messed up and is drawing way too much current... but i dont know much about cars.

ill crimp them too but i cant get them tight enough to be trustworthy. but if you just clamp them down on the vice 1st you do use less solder.

well if it gounds out through something it could have fried it. the socket wrench hit my wiper arms when i was taking off my alt + and it fried my wiper motor. so look whats attached to the spot that the wire touched and see if you can trace what might have fried.

the reason you were popping them is because your 600w amp is pulling over 40amps. your fuse was/is way too small. pick your fuse by the wire size. if your using a 4awg power wire, use a 100amp fuse.

check out my build. about half way down on page 1. might be like what you want. if you want something a little lighter, ive seen people just make a wood frame and wrap grill cloth over it. then the frame is fitted with magnets to attatch to the box. edit - oh, didnt see you already finished it.

im with this guy. do the math though. dont just throw a bigger fuse in there.

so you want higher tones but you have the lowpass set as low as it will go? maybe try turning that up...

you should solder them either way. use a torch.

not always.

the pully on the mechman is smaller so a shorter belt is sometimes needed. 1/2" - 1" shorter should do it. im guessing your reading the dyno sheet that came with the mechman. remember the 600rpm number is the alts rpm. not your cars rpm. your alt spins a lot faster.

the dry ice is a lot of fun. makes one hell of a boom.

yes, predrill every screw hole. now that i see your design, yes i would brace that. or just do a double baffle.

ah crap. i dont think i can make a pod that big... unless i cut the door panels and mount the speakers to the plastic. i was thinking about doing that and having the screws that hold the speakers on, go all the way through to the metal so i wouldn't have to worry about the plastic being too weak. then makeing my pod inside the panel. just not sure if i want to cut that door...

come on guys. lets hear some input.

what do you guys this about putting a 6.5" speaker in an enclosure in the doors? do you think it would help get more midbass out of them? how big would the box need to be? or rather, whats the smallest box you would ever use?