but you have to build the box with it. you cant just put a bead inside the box now. it wont add any structure to the joint. a 1" piece of wood along each edge would be the best way to add structure.
so its not the screws holding the subs in? its the box? did you predrill the screw holes or just ram screws in? if you didnt predrill then the wood is probably stripped and/or split.
dont use liquid nails, just use some good wood glue. the screws just act like clamps while the glue drys and arnt needed for structure. ive built boxes with no screws but its only cause i have a shit ton of clamps.
the klmx is not VERY flexible lol. its also only rated to 250amps instead of 300amps. its good wire for the price and i use it but it is not the best wire. the more expensive stuff they sell is supposed to be much better. kicker hysperflex is the best wire ive ever gotten. its as flexible as a wet noodle.
so to stay in the 14v range everyone is giving great advice. a HO alt and two kinetik 2400's (or similar size), plus an 1800 under the hood, or whatever fits, should do the trick. you can get by with less though, if money is still an issue.
do you have an aftermarket HU or the stock one? ive seen a guy with the stock HU and if he turned his amp on without the hu being on it would play a tone very loud. something to do with the LOC.
but why do your amps stay on?
lol alright. you close enough to show me where that is? id love to hear those DD's.
not sure if im going next week or the week after now. all depends on if the work i do here is successful.
hey man, i didnt have a clue either. i thought my speakers sounded good and my friend thought i was retarded lol. then a big SQ guy got in my friends car and that guy said my friend's system was all fucked up lol. now that i know, i can hear it and its easier to make the improvements. its just another learning experience. go to a meca show and talk to an SQ guy. you'll develop an ear for it eventually.
it looks like i have to go to Pittsburgh, PA for a week for work. just wondering if anyone is in that area. would be cool to see some new systems, get demos, shoot the shit, etc.
lmao. big "face palm" moment.
so you said the remote is hooked up correctly but not if you tested it to see if you get 12v when the HU turns on. also check the voltage on the + wire at the amp just to make sure. did you remove the paint from the chassis ground? try to put one wire from the + terminal to the remote terminal. the amp should power on but this is only a test. you wont want to leave it that way. its just to make sure it isnt the amp (and im sure its not).
the more detailed you are in your answers the easier it is for us to help you. and dont say "everything is wired right" lol. 9 times out of 10 its something you did wrong and not broken equipment.
edit for your response - the thing thats wrong is always the one thing your SURE is correct lol. just some words of wisdom from all my mistakes.
legit aero ports as in the brand "aero" or are they flared PSP ports from parts express? and if they are "aero" ports, how the hell did you find them? and do they have any more?
fuses at the beginning and the end of those main + runs. you only have one at the end in that pic.
and i have to say it... what the HELL have you been doing on here for 2 years with no system or even know how to install one?