scottiej

The XS Power D3100 is within the 800cu in rule, and is more powerful than any listed in this thread. Probably the most popular among the competitors too.

It is... both websites lead to the same page

3 copper bars left, one pending...

Sweet! Can I play!?

The S1200 model fits best in your car, and is what we would typically recommend for up to about 1500-2000W.

Please look over the instructions I left from before... you need to check to make sure the alternator is charging. Use a hand held multi meter and check the battery voltage with the car off. Observe the voltage (should be mid to high 12V range). Now start the car and see what the voltage rises to... (should be low to mid 14V range). If your alternator is not charging, then that is your problem... If you want to test the batteries individually, recharge them and take them to an auto parts store and have them tested. For the D2400 and D2700 they can test them anywhere from 800-1000 cranking amps on their test equipment and tell you if they are good or bad. Or, if you want you can send them back to us and we can test them for you.

Mechman has free shipping on XS Power Batteries if that helps...

No, not bad at all... it just takes longer to charge on 5A. With the big batts that you have, I would charge on 25A. The three amperage selection switches should be viewed as for small, medium, and large sized batteries. 5A for small batts like the D680, D925, and D975, 15A for medium sized batteries like the D1200, D5100's, D3400, and 25A for the D2400, D2700, and D3100. Also use the 25A mode anytime you are charging multiple batteries.

Nice! :hairtrick:

Bump!

Thanks Mike! Alternator applications are now posted up! http://www.4xspower.com/application.asp If we have your model listed feel free to hit us up at [email protected] for a quote! All SMD Members get special discounts, so make sure to mention it in the email!

Actually, if you rep Powermaster to the fullest you are repping the wrong company Powermaster doesnt make batteries, or anything that relates to car audio for that matter. XS Power is a whole seperate company from Powermaster Keep up the good work, and be careful charging at 15.2V... we recommend 14.4V (14.9V Max) for the best performance, and longest life of the batteries.

X2... if your batteries are low now it is because your alt is not charging. Re-charge the batteries first (as I've explained in the other thread) and then start your car and check to make sure the alt is putting out 14V. If it is not, check to make sure your belt is not slipping (you will notice black dust around the alternator pulley). If the alt is putting out 14V and there is no evidence of belt slippage, then you may be constantly pulling over 250A when you are driving, or you have a key off load that is draining your batteries at night. If you confirm none of the above, then I would recommend having the batteries load tested after you charge them fully.

If you are using the XS Power Intellicharger all you have to do is connect it to the battery, set the charger to 12V, AGM Low, 25A and turn the charger on. The charger does the monitoring for you so you dont have to worry about anything. With the XS Power charger, you just set it and forget it (sounds like a info-mercial haha) I would recommend re-charging them one at a time since they are so low... you will know they are finished when the float light comes on. If they dont completely re-charge the first time around and go into error mode, just turn off the charger and turn it back on to restart the charge process. To determine your charge time, refer to the manual where it shows re-charge time calculations. At 10.4V you are at around 85% depth of discharge. Remember, with the intellicharger you can leave it connected and charging overnight with no worries

I've heard several people say there are people successfully using three post batteries, but have never actually seen it myself. I get several calls weekly from people who have tried this exactly as described above and have had problems almost immediately. You cannot allow the internal voltage of a sealed lead acid battery to become imbalanced... it will kill it very quickly. I recommend the dual alt with XS Volt regulator method... allows one alt to be toggled back and forth between 12V and 16V. The second best solution is to use D1000's (most power 16V option available) and step the voltage down with a 993 voltage step down module to the sensitive electronics.

The D3400 is $239... a D5100 will probably fit just fine.

Still have 3 remaining, and the aluminum...

7 of the 10pcs of 1/4 copper bars sold...

Cool... PM your zip and I'll hit you back with a shipped price.

1/8" Copper Sold... several others pending...

NICE!

Copper 1 Piece 3/4" x 48 x 1/8" thick - solid copper $20 SOLD 10 Pieces 1.5" x 44.5" x 1/4" thick - misc holes $48ea. Aluminum 1 Piece 2" x 45" x 1/4" thick - 66 3/8" tapped bolts $20 1 Piece 1" x 51" x 1/4" thick - 48 - 1/4" holes $10 2 Pieces 1" x 44" x 1/4" thick - 43 - 1/4" holes $10ea

If your car has a 140A factory alternator then there is a reason for that. The factory didnt just decide to add extra amperage to your factory alt because the expected you to put a stereo system in it. Some cars require more alternator power depending on other options offered on the car like heated seats or windshield, factory air compressors, higher output factory stereo, etc. The principal still applies to you sir, even though you have a 140A factory alternator

Thanks Mike! Excellent Job! On Monday we will have all currently available alternator listings published on the site! This video was perfectly timed! Check out: http://www.4xspower.com/audioalternators.asp for weekly updates and additions!

Your car uses a group 124R battery from the factory. The measurements are essentially the same as the D3400 except the positive is on the opposite side. Many times you can drop a D3400 in that spot and use the 555 I-BAR kit with the starting terminals closest to the rear of the battery and the cables will still reach and work just fine