Joker

On the farthest side correct ? Like I have it here The sub I wired parallel inside the box

I only have one + and one - here is a pic

Hu is a Pioneer 880prs , box is 6cuft . Whats stumping me is this amp has more speaker hookups than what Im used to and then the way the book is saying to hook it up . The sub is wired correctly in the box but stumped on how to wire it to the amp lol . Sounds stupid I know .

Headunit wise I have the eq settings for the lows all flat , no loud on or anything that should make the headunit clip .

I had it + to + , - to - at first and then I was listening to it and all of a sudden the damn sub starts popping so I tried how the sundown book that come with the amp shows .

Well I have been waiting for various parts of the system and finally I get everything installed and it sounds weak. I am stumped on how to properly wire my new amp to my sub so I get the 1 ohm load. I have the sub wired correctly inside the box and I am running one dual 2ohm 18" btl. I dont have a O-scope so my plan was to just crack the gain to a 1/4 turn from off just to see if everything works etc . I am going to order a O-scope hear pretty soon when I get the money. So gain is set 1/4 turn / LPF around 80 I think (hard to tell what it is , have it between a 1/4 and a 1/2 a turn)/ Subsonic I was shooting for 27Hz , I have it around 1/4 turn . Bass boost is all the way off and the phase is all the way down . What is phase ? I looked at the manual I got with the amp and on page under single amp connection and the diagrahm showing one sub 1~4 ohms it shows the + of sub side to connect to the negative of the amp sides and the negative of the sub side to connect with the + side of the amp . my sub end of my setup has no bass really and when I turn the volume up the sub starts popping like its gonna blow the fuc up or somthing and the gain is only at a 1/4 turn . I feel like a fool now

How about (2) 15" Q's sealed ?

For (2) 12"s I would shoot for more around 4 cubic foot net internal volume at the minimum (with all displacements taken into account) . Also them boxes you fellas are coming up with dont have very much port area . Not even in the 12-16sq in rule of thumb area . Last thing I notice is the 3" width port being 2x" in length to get your tune is jacking up the Port Length to Port Width ratio . Rule of thumb is to go no higher than what .. 9:1 , I like to stay under 7:1 myself . Yours is around 8.5:1 . Cliff : Not enough internal volume , not enough port area , port width too narrow . Try this 33" W 18" H 23" D 4.5" W port 0 on the second port in that re calculator = plenty of internal volume , plenty of port area , plenty of port with a 5.61:1 ratio . Even though its tuned a bit higher itll smash them little boxes you fellas where figuring up . With both subs in the box the net volume would be about 5cuft tuned to right under 35Hz .

First I'd like to thank the OP . I downloaded audicity and I am currently checking various song's I have . It's suprising to see some song's that sound so clear have clipped spots . That waveform deal show's you it very clearly . I run a few I downloaded and damn major clipping . I then run a bunch from my own personal modified song's I slowed down using Virtual DJ . The one's I did myself are loud and clear and way away from clipping . I am only using Virtual DJ from now on from what I see . It was easy for me to use also . I am going to throw away most of my burned cd's and run each song from now on through audicity to get the visual waveform to check for clipping . Going to be some work but whatever protect's my equipment . How are you guys saving the picture to show everyone ? I would like to show the difference between my Virtual DJ modified and one variously downloaded .

I didn't want to use 2x4 , they eat to much space and block the airflow. You have a wall , how about for just the common box .

Box is 6ft3 net * 32hz , 77.5sq inch port for a loaded 18" btl , sub up / port back , power is going to be a sundown 3500d * 1ohm . I was thinking of furthering the 45's to the top and bottom running horizontially{ very small peices not huge 45's like you see ) , not in the port though . More to get rid of as many 90 degree angles as I can . Do you guys think I should make the 45 on the port side bigger/wider ? Also thinking of putting a peice horizontally of sanded and rounded edged 3/4" mdf peice about 4" in length inside the middle of the 5" width port . Thought of making an extended peice that continues horizontially almost to the 45 since the area is wide open there . The top I have 2 peices cut so it is getting double baffled , sub will mount on second . Thinking 1/2" All thread making almost a cross inside the box mounted as close to middle as possible dodging the subs massive magnet . Maybe 2 peices of wooden dowel rod's running vertically on side of sub edge to help support the middle baffle area . I am going to try to mount the sub as far away from the internal port opening as possible . Here's some picture's of my box so far . Only my 2nd box I designed and built myself and I dont have a table saw or router , so take it easy .

If you ever seen a 4th gen F body rear space its similar looking to that . Heres mine I built a while back for a single 12" ~ 28"Wide , 17.75" High including second baffle , bottom depth of 12" / top depth of 14" . Back is flat , front angles out .

Post a picture of the space your working with if you could . 2,500watt rms I would try to build everything out of MDF , not sure how strong a fiberglass top would be ?

All that MDF making up 2 seperate chambers , why not design it simple like Boon's ? One face with 2 subs and a simple single L port .

Thought that could be the case but when the HU voltage readout goes 11.9 a battery indicator lamp comes on in the instrument cluster . Its probably both a old tired battery and something loose inside the alternator . Has a warranty until 07-07-09 so if it still does it with a new battery I am sending it back , have all my paperwork . Then I am going to sell it to a noob and get a MECHMAN alternator .

I went and has the battery checked and it kept saying replace battery lol , so I think thats what I am going to try first .

Seems like it would be , where do you see it having the problem .. sitting idling or driving ? Does it do it with the rpms up ? How much amps does you alternator put out throughout the rpm range ?

I just checked the connection / plug and its all good and tight . Fired it up and 14.5-14.6volts at a cold engine temp , idling 1600rpm . But that dont really say much as they all putout killer voltage when cold . One thing I wanna change is the engine to chassis ground , right now its in the same spot as stock but its all Kicker 4 gauge . The stock location is the front radiator support and its pretty thin . I am going to move it to be bolted to the strut towers , seems the metal is 3 times as thick there and thats where my battery to chassis ground is . Should help a little . I have enough 1/0 Knukonceptz Fleks powerwire from my other car and I want to upgrade to that instead of the 4gauge . Should help a little . MECHMAN hows this for output lol , I dug and found all the info reciets / warranty info etc on this alternator . Not sure what size pulley it has but it says common ratio is 3:1 and to divide alternator rpm by 3 = engine rpm . So from the sheet they sent with my alternator showing its output this is what is puts out ~ 533rpm - 5.6 amps 600rpm - 24 amps 667rpm - 41 amps 833rpm - 76.5 amps 1000rpm - 101.1amps 1333rpm - 129.2amps 1667rpm - 148.8amps 2000rpm - 161.7amps 2333rpm - 170.9amps 2667rpm - 175amps I am not dogging the company cause I have the same brand on my other car , 200amp buts its on a LS1 V8 with 6rib belt . I have had it for alonger period of time and I have had nothing but good voltage with it . This little unit though just won't cut it for the Sundown SAZ-3500D I have coming . Keep in mind this little 1.8L 4cylinder idles 600rpm at full temperature .

If your on a budget stick to 1500watt rms on down so you wont have to get serious with the electrical . One good battery up front should handle that with 1/0 big 3 . Then save for a good 200-250 amp alternator like the MECHMAN ProPower or Rhino largecase conversion model so if you do decide to go bigger with your setup later on . All you would need electrical wise then would be good battery out back and more 1/0 gauge wiring and fuses . Maybe go with (1) Audioque HDC3 copper coil 15" ($249 each) http://www.audioque.com/aq/HDCSeries.htm in a 40Hz tune ported box . Probably the stoutest built sub on the market for the $$$ . Later you could get another HDC3 15" and upgrade your power , cause I agree with everyone saying to buy for later on even if you have to wait . Thats why I reccomend 1 baddass sub in a good enclosure rather than 2 halfass models that when you go to upgrade your either stuck with them or have to sell at a loss .

How about Audioque Street Duty SDC2.5 Series 12"s .. $139 each instead of the Type R's . http://www.audioque.com/aq/SDC2_5_Series.htm

Im thinking the internal voltage regulator in the alternator is going bad , what you think ?

I was driving the car in feb'09 and all of a sudden it stalls on me .I tried to restart it and nothing . I was sitting in the middle of the road so I had to push the car off to the side . Popped the hood to make sure the engine didnt go on me , everything looked fine . Headlights would come on bright , interior dome light was normal brightness so I figured the battery was cool . The car had gas showing 1/4 tank on the needle and I have run it until the light comes on before . Guy and his wife pulled over to help me and I tried to jump start it just to see if it would help , it turned over a little faster than normal but wouldnt crank up . I finally called for a ride and I went and filled up some gas cans thinking maybe the gas gauge stop working . When I got back to the car I popped one of the ignition wires off and had my rides driver turn the engine over . Didnt see any spark , gas wasnt helping this car get home so I had to pull it . Turned out to be a bad ingnition coil . Put a new one in and it fired right up .

I was coming home from the probation office and was driving down the road normally , stereo down just to where its audible and I look at the voltage reading off my headunit .. reading 11.9 - 12.1 volts . It has done this too me before around november '08 , stuck in a traffic jam and the voltage reading was 14.1-14.4 one second and then I glanced back at it and its dropped to 11.9-12.1 then the little battery light comes on . Then all of a sudden it shoots back to 13.7-13.9 -14.1-14.4 like it was no big deal and the light disappears . It did this at a low engine idle , engine normal temperature and stereo at a audible level like today . Now on my way there I was banging it etc then turn it down . My battery is about 6years old , not sure if that could be causeing it ? Car starts right up so I figured the battery was cool . Im worried now though with it doing it while the car was cruising down the road , engine rpm 2,000-2,500rpm . Just stayed at 12.1 like it wasnt charging only running off battery power or something . I pushed in the clutch to see if it was belt slip and had the same reading . Then with the clutch pressed in still rolling down the road I reved it to 4,000rpm and held it and immediately it read 13.7-13.9 14.1 14.4 etc , let off of the clutch and it dropped back to 12.1 . I was in a bad part of town so I was hoping the damn car didnt die out on me and then all of a sudden it reads 14.1 -13.9 volts on the rest of my drive . I then drove it about 30miles and everything was fine , turned the car off and it restarted . When I pulled into my driveway I seen the little battery light come on and sure enough the voltage was 11.9-12.1 . I hurried up and popped the hood and looked to see if the belt was slipping or something and it was turning just fine . Then it all of a sudden goes back to 13.9-14.1 volts like nothings wrong and I recheck how the belt looks with good voltage and its tuning the same as before . The alternator I bought off ebay , supposed to be new and it looked new when I installed it around summer '08 , its supposed to be a 170amp unit . Not sure wtf is going on with it

In the RE calculator type this in the red in this order. http://reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html 30 16 24 24 0.75 4 0 16" H x 30" W x 24" D 4.5cuft @ 32.79Hz without the sub - Fi BL 15"sub displacement is .18cuft = 4.32cuft @ 33.xx Hz with the sub . Little bigger than listed but I think this size is acceptable and will bang hard . As you can see 4" slot port x 26" long = length to width ratio of 6.5:1 58sq in port area , 13.43sq in per cuft . Cut sheet ~ Bottom - 24"d x 30"w Back - 14.5"h x 30"w Left side - 14.5"h x 23.25"d ( port side , drivers side ) Right side - 14.5"h x 22.5"d Front - 14.5"h x 25.25"w Port- 14.5"h x 18.5"d Top- 24"d x 30"w Final ~ 4.32cuft @ 33Hz displaced , 58sq in port area Sub inside cut diameter = 14.125" .

Use the Aeroport calculator .. http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu6I2Q9FJTWwB..._calculator.cgi The port length is for each port . If you have a Flared kit , you go by the flared calculation . To cut the straight ports to what you need take the flared length and minus it by 5" . Each flared end including the ring is about 2.5" L . Example ~ 4cuft , 32Hz tune , 3" diameter port , 2 ports = Flare Length Port required 8.11" Cutt each straight port tube to 3.11" L . Assemble and thats it .