lanman31337

I think I was one of the lucky ones who got one as "rated".

Is it like that at idle, at xxxx rpm, with a load, without a load, etc...

I install Omega exclusively. Love it.

I've had 4 12's, plus amps and batteries. You'll have no problems.

The Optidrive was a Zed build amp. They usually sell for a couple hundred dollars.

Resistor packs are like 5 bucks. Then you'll have some other resistances for other vehicles. I usually use a PLJX for the install, zero problems.

please leave drama involving other forums off SMD...

Absolutely. Your ears aren't nearly as accurate as a scope or volt meter.

Remember, when voltage drops, amperage increases. You don't want none of that.

An even better tweeter would blow your mind. Dual tweeters are like the ugly fatties. Sure, it's good lovin, but you get a hot girl with a banging body, it's like riding a Rainbow or Focus tweeter.

I've never heard of the stock plug needing hooked up with an alt with external regulator.

Bad diodes and/or external regulator. Had both go bad on mine, same exact symptoms.

http://physics.info/electric-resistance/

aluminum 26.5 ||| aluminum oxide (14 ℃) 1 × 1014 brass 64 ||| aluminum oxide (300 ℃) 3 × 1011 chromium 126 ||| aluminum oxide (800 ℃) 4 × 106 copper 17.1 ||| carbon, amorphous 0.35 gold 22.1 ||| carbon, diamond 2.7 iron 96.1 ||| carbon, graphite 650 × 10−9 lead 208 ||| germanium 0.46 lithium 92.8 ||| pyrex 7740 40,000 mercury (0 ℃) 941 ||| quartz 75 × 1016 manganese 1440 ||| silicon 640 nichrome 1500 ||| silicon dioxide (20 ℃) 1 × 1013 nickel 69.3 ||| silicon dioxide (600 ℃) 70,000 palladium 105.4 ||| silicon dioxide (1300 ℃) 0.004 platinum 105 ||| water, liquid (0 ℃) 861,900 plutonium 1414 ||| water, liquid (25 ℃) 181,800 silver 15.9 ||| water, liquid (100 ℃) 12,740 solder 150 steel, plain 180 steel, stainless 720 tantalum 131 tin (0 ℃) 115 titanium (0 ℃) 390 tungsten 52.8 uranium (0 ℃) 280 zinc 59

Well, here's the scoop. Let's get some guys with unibody cars to do it, and let's get some guys who have a full frame. To do a true test, we'd need some guys that attach right to the frame, and the guys who attach to the body, and those guys who use the ground runs.

It's very cheap. Any time I run 1/0 or bigger, I almost always run a 1/0 ground from front to rear battery.

Is the cost of say 50 bucks worth the few extra tenths of decibel, or the tenths of voltage? Absolutely.

Pontiac Sunfire with a Cavalier front clip. Bunch of visual mods, a teeny bit of engine work. I am really impressed with the mids so far. Feeding them 150 rms each.

This is what I used to have: Little amp rack action Everything complete: Some junk in the trunk: It wanged. It got the job done, but just like everyone else, I wanted more. Now a lot of you are going to say MA Audio, class A/B, blah blah blah current hog blah blah blah, but it made me happy. So it's new box time. I don't have pics yet of the swappable port area, but just to show how the sub would fit. Door panels painted/dyed/reupholstered by yours truly. Had to modify my kickpanels to fit the new midbass in. One of the 5 1/4s for the Alphasonik set died, so they got replaced by the Opti 5.1 woofers. Went with a pair of Opti6C midbass. Yes, that is a 3 inch voice coil. On a 6 1/2 inch woofer. Installed: What is left... Install these: Install the box. I think I'm going to use a 10 inch sonotube as a port. Install batteries. ??????? Wang. Questions, comments, concerns, keep them coming. I'll get some pictures of the rest of the speakers shortly.

I just thought of something else with the frame. Usually your frame isn't nearly as nice and clean as the one pictured up top. It's a piece of surface rust hot mess. That can reduce resistance right there. Most vehicles need 2 grounds because of rubber mounts. The ones with solid mounts don't have to worry about that. The factory ground usually attaches from the battery, attaches to the body and then somewhere to the engine block. Some trucks are going to have a ground strap off the engine block to the firewall. Big 3 absolutely helps, especially since some of the grounding straps are braided aluminum!

Now this is something I want to question. Since electricity runs in the path of least resistance, why then have something that doesn't give the best continuity? Wouldn't that be a waste of a connection? This could also introduce the possibility of a ground loop as well since there's going to be different resistances.

Then you're going to want to take the resistance from where the piece of copper the amp mounts to, and then from the other tip where the cable going to the battery or alternator goes to. You'll find that there's more resistance in steel than there is copper.

So on that, you're saying that my run of 3/0 and run of 1/0 grounds to the back batteries are useless?

Surface area does play a role. For example, entrance cable for homes is usually aluminum. Reason is for cost, however, it needs a much bigger surface area for the same amperage.

And I've never seen a chassis with less resistance than a run of 1/0. Frames and bodies are made of steel. They're an ok conductor, but not nearly as good as copper. They've got welds, and things bolted to them, and usually not the most direct path.