LordArcane

don't forget to do big 3 upgraded

yes + to +, - to - or - to frame - to frame if you have full frame not sub frame sub frame better run both power and ground full to 2nd battery

this is how to hook one up. as for if it helps well thats a good question i've heard some say yes and some say no. i have a rf 1 fraud cap but no volt meter so not sure if it helps but i know it holds one hell of alot of power even my small on fused some 4 gauge wire together one day when i was un hooking it and the wires touched :/

power acoustik are some very cheap amps and still good amps in my eyes atleast ummm maybe a 2 channel amp might do job, i'll keep eye out for ya if someone else doesn't find one for ya

i don't know much about the subs you got but i had my 2 10's in 1 cft sealed box was ok then put them in a 1.6cft sealed box and sounded alot better now they going into 2.6 cft ported box and hoping they sound even better, i would say try and do the max cft the subs are rated for if they say max 1cft per sub 4cft box should make them sound really nice, might be better if you could go even bigger? i'm not sure i've always stuck close to what the sub was rated for

3cft? wow thats kinda small for 4 12's i would think my 2 10's are ideal in 1.6cft sealed box no sure about your subs but just thinking 2 12 prolly be nice at 2cft? so 4 and 4cft?

few pictures of my 5 and half month old baby girl playing with daddy's sub box she been helping daddy on and off the whole time if it was safe for her to be out there with me aka no dust or glue fumes

i know the openings little small but with them being 10" high i didn't think 1/4" would matter all to much not with 10" subs atleast i was going to make them the full 2" like the main port but woulda messed up my chambers cubes :/ first box so kinda learning yet and testing at same time anyways this is little pic top view of how the port is between the 2 chambers remember its all 10" high as well

each chamber is 1.3 cubes each opening of chamber to port is 1 3/4" wide 10" high then the main port is 2" wide 10"inches high 13 1/4" long i'll post i 3d rendering of how i designed the port i just hope math is done right lol

you looking for mono amp or 2 channel for the subs? cuz i got this amp and its little over your price but it has alot of power and is 1 ohm stable and from my experince its a good amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14639_...MF2000-1D-.html EDIT: had to fix link

almost done back is all screwed on, inside chambers all silconed, just got to make front plate so subs are sunk into the box few pics of me test fitting one of the subs makering holes to pre drill for sub screws

little more done not much long now befor box will be ready to use all rough sanded down and top and bottom screwed in place to make it stronger all screws per drilled and counter sinked not taking any chances on wood spiltting inside of chambers silconed to help seal any cracks glue might have missed glueing back in place

not sure on finsh yet once i get is all sanded and routered i might to like a bed liner type of coating maybe or carpet i want something that can take a beating since box will be in back of my jeep and i tend to carry chains tools and what ever else family has me put back there on and i want to put bolts out the back for speaker hook ups not that i will be changing ohm load or nothing just trying to take cheaper route right now on this box i planned on 1/4" bolts what size eyelets (sorry for spelling) would i need to get to go over the bolts? or should i switch to a 5/16" bolt then what eyelet size would i need for those?

ok box is for 2 alpine type-r 10's 1.3 cubes per chamber ported to 33hz if i did math right box will be 30" wide 14" high and 16.5" deep out of 3/4" mdf not the best made box in the world but its coming together better then i planned on even tho some of the cuts at off was using very old table saw :/ anyways heres some pictures of it of where its at right now sorry i forgot to take pics befor this point been busy in yard and with kid plus trying to do this all at same time back of the box back of box close up on port where is it opens to each chamber front of the box front of box close up on port opening

ok i seen some of this stuff so far and its cool as hell how you can do this stuff so i would like to try it with my jeep would like to see some 26's on it tint the windows little more and black out the tail lights please and no rush for this when ever you get time thanks

well sorry i'm not a pro at this i suppose you are? not everyone can be as prefect as you. as far as i knew a 4 channel amp could only run 2 ohms on all channels or 4 ohms on all channels my bad for not knowning that 2 channels could be 2 ohms and 2 channels could be 4 ohms and given the fact he wasn't sure if these speakers are single or duel 2 ohms voice coils atleast she never said for sure in this post what they were besides for saying he thinks they are dual 2 ohms coils. we are all here to learn doesn't mean we got to listen to dick heads that know more i was just trying to help the guy out using what i know. and since not many were trying to help him i'm pretty sure hes greatful for me atleast trying to help. from now on everyone that needs to ask something just pm boon since hes the pro at this stuff don't bother posting on forum just pm him and he'll tell you 100% just how to do it god what a dick to be so rude about it

if they are single 2ohm coils then you would have to run them like this off one 4ohm channel + from 4ohm to + on one of the speakers - on that speaker to + of other speaker then - on that speaker back to - from the 4 ohm its series wiring still just useing 2 speakers svc instead of one dvc speaker and if they are single voice coils then you would need amp for front and rear since i don't know any amps that 2 channels can be 2 ohms and other 2 be 4 ohms now if they are dual voice coils hopefully they are, would be best thing for you as you could run one 4 channnel amp at 4 ohms hooking the front speakers up as normal and hooking each rear up in series to their own channels on the amp and all the speakers would be getting the right ohms to them but will need to watch out to make sure your not puching to many watts to any one of the speakers as they are running at different ohms makes finding one 4 channel amp having just enough to power all the speakers well with out giving them to much so really it all depens on those rear speakers if they are dvc or svc hope this helps

www.the12volt.com has alot of good stuff on it i found my wiring stuff on there for my jeep you might go their and find what you need not 100% tho since yours is a 09

all depens what your looking to spend and who you ask, everyone has their own little brand they little over the others for any given reason but the best question to ask is what are you willing to spend and what are you looking to get out of it? with you its little more diffcult you got one brand of speaker in back and one brand in front the brand in back handles 2 ohms the brand in front handles 4 ohms so it kinda rough to say what 4 channel to get atleast for me. i myself would go with 2 2channel amp and get them to go with the rms of the front and rear speakers then you know just whats going to each at the ohms they need and the rms they can handle. as for what brand thats kinda up to you as long as who you get it from has a good warrnity on it then you should be ok thats what i think anyways i never dealt with something like this where front and rear speakers wear different ohms so not reall sure just trying to give some help advice

should be able to hook them series as long as they have dual + and - hook ups for them thats given like you said the head unit is 4ohm if each speaker only has single hook up then would need amp or wire both speakers in series to one channel from the head unit :/ the fronts should hook up as normal thru the cross-over that comes with them

it this was true at all then no one with suv with a port box couldn't even roll down their windows cuz it would be doing the same thing as like opening your trunk. free air subs ya might have this problem but if they are in any box sealed ported bandpass shouldn't have any problems at all in a trunk with it open cuz like i said trunk would be like back of suv so opening your trunk would be like rolling down the windows or opening your down in suv while subs are going

my bad ment to say 2 gauge power and ground wires, need more moutain dew not awake anymore lol

from my math each coil should only be getting 50 rms more then what they say and as for taking my time i been building this box over and over in my head on paper and with google sketchup7. my tuning might be off by 1hz or so but should be between 32-34 hz should be anyways, power wise i got 130 amp alt front battery, rear battery, 1 fraud cap( will be up grading to capcell since they are more like a battery but still get me the fast power surges, and all the wire front to rear to amp is 0/2 right now plan on upgrading that also when i can afford it, speaker wire from amp to subs is all 8 gauge. in time i would like to run all 1/0 power wires a 4 channel amp and new door mids and highs and new dash highs, don't plan on putting in after market deck soon since i've grow very fond of my steering wheel controls but i do have mtx re-q prosseser to run the amps would like the rf 3sixty but can't afford that right now so much to do so little money what i cruel world we live in

Port is 2"w X 10" h X 13 1/4"d each camber is 1.3cubes max listing for my alpine type-r 10s box should be 32-34 hz tuned from my math and running a power acoustik bamf 2000/1d box will be made with 3/4" mdf nothing to specail as of yet later prolly make better box but want to do something good but simple on this first box oh the subs handle 250 rms per coil and the amp puts out 1200 rms at 1ohm subs handle 1500 max per speaker and max output of amp is 2000 not the best system but give pretty good thump for the money i put into it so far

Hey steve or anyone that would know for that matter. i got few question. first i'm building a sub box got it all planned out in 3d and all the good stuff ported and tuned to 33hz cubes all max for each chamber for the speakers i'm using anyways i seen steve build some boxes and he glue and nailed them where needed well i would like to know what kinda glue to use normal wood glue or stronger glue like gorilla glue or something like that? 2nd when i go to carpet the box what kinda glue should i use to put the carpet on? 3rd i'm running a 2000x1 amp and running 2 subs with dual 4ohm coils wiring them in parallel/parallel to break it down to the 1ohm from the amp anyways right now i only got the fuses that are on them amp 2 40 amps and no inline fuse what size fuse should i run inline for this set up?