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SQMonte

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Everything posted by SQMonte

  1. damn, XS Batteries are bank! I can't get those anywhere near the price i'm prepared to pay for a SVR or Yellow Top. Looks like XS is not in my future So SVR or Yellow Top?
  2. So I can use the side terminals for the stock connections and the top terminals for any add-on's I install. Currently I have about 3-4 factory connections to my negative terminal and about 3 on my positive. I'm about to add two more to the negative and two more to the positive so with only two terminals it would get awfully busy, not to mention having to extend some of the factory wires since I'd have to cut about 3" of wire off of them in order to remove the factory lug they're run into.
  3. No. Whatever battery I go with has to have dual terminals, if not it's a deal breaker.
  4. So how does the SVR's compare to the Optima Yellow Tops?
  5. The battery in my car is 5yrs old now so it's about time I start considering getting a replacement. And since i'm about to put in a 1200 watt system I think I should do it sooner rather than later. I work for a DME company and we get our batteries from MK Battery, I did some searching on their site and they have an SVR line of batteries for car audio applications so I looked into it and found that the one that fits my car and has dual terminals retails for $264, I can get it for $132. Optima Yellow tops seem to be a popular choice and I hit up eBay and can get one for $160 shipped. Anybody have any experience with these batts? Care to share it with me? What battery would you recommend for my car, it's a 04 Monte Carlo. This battery is going to replace the one under the hood, I have no plans for a dual battery setup, at least not until I get my Mechman Rhino series alt.
  6. My opinion is not to factor in anything about the amp when deciding on a fuse size for the power lead, fuse according to max current capacity of the size of the wire you're using. Here's a good chart to go by: http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp Using a smaller fuse won't hurt
  7. Cliff Notes: YesHahaha Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, now I don't feel like a tool for using too much on my doors
  8. I just got my second one over the weekend
  9. i'm sure if you put something behind that license plate it would sound much better back there.
  10. You are running quite a bit of power in that little thing so I see how/why it rattles like it does, have you tried using expanding foam in it?
  11. I did infact put deadener "inside" the doors I got as much coverage in there as my chubby little hand could reach and did two layers as well.
  12. funny you should say that cause when I did my install, which was the first time I'd ever used sound deadening, I noticed my door panels were a little dusty/dirty and I had never heard of anyone saying it was necessary to wipe it down first but I used some common sense and did so just cause it would have bugged me had I not.To the OP, with as many ridges and what not as you've got in there, you did a pretty good job. Had to have sucked doing it in such hot weather though. I usually gets pretty hot here in Sac but yesterday it was pleasantly mild. I've been outside running speaker wire and installing my components and speaker pods to the door and test fitting the door panels and it's already hotter today than it was yesterday, at least it feels that way.
  13. ThanksIs it really necessary to use as much as I did on the doors? I see some installations where they just put a couple pieces here, couple pieces there, nowhere near the coverage like I got on mine. Did I do too much?
  14. Thanks to Ant from Second Skin and his generous promotion, I was one of the members who lucked out and was given a door pack of Damplifier Pro a couple weeks ago. I finally got around to installing it today, here's how it went down. The first thing to do, of course, was remove the door panels and check out the door to see how much of a pain this was going to be. It was already going to be kind of a pain cause I had never before used or applied sound deadening so today was a very special day for me as I got my deadening material virginity popped In the process of removing the panels I ran into a slight issue, the geniuses at Chevy decided to put the plugs in with the release mechanism in the worst possible spot so when I was removing the passenger side panel the window switch broke apart while I was trying to flip the panel upside down so I could gain access to the release mechanism. When I say split apart, I mean just that, the internal pins were exposed and all. I just knew I'd have to pony up for a new switch but I was able to get it back together securely with no issues. Whew, dodged one there. So I get the panels off and this is what is staring at me Not too bad, I suppose. Before I go any further I decide to look for the culprit of this nasty sticky stuff thats on the inside of my window. It's horrible stuff. I detail cars and have lots of products in my garage but none of them could do any damage to this stuff so I had to resort to using a brillo pad. It got the stuff off but if you look hard enough you can see some fine scratches. Not a big deal, but a deal none the less. So this is the nastiness that's on my inner window, again. Close inspection of the door panel and wiring revealed the cause: Again, the geniuses at Chevy came up with a great idea and decided using duct tape on the inner door wiring was the thing to do. The adhesive melted and the tape unraveled, getting that sticky mess on my window :mad: So the first order of the day was to remove the plastic lining from the door panel and handle that issue with the tape. You see what the wiring looked like before, this is what it looks like now: Now I can rest assured that I'll no longer have to worry about the sticky shit getting on my window and can move on to the real job, should be fun. I pop open the box of Damplifier Pro and notice the deadener is sticking to the sides, not a big deal, rather an observation. I pulled a little harder and it opened right up. It was a little warm out today so I set a sheet of deadener on my dash board so it can warm up a little and hopefully be a little easier to work with and stick a little better. Worked like a charm! I pulled up a milk crate and began to proceed. Like everybody else who won this via the promotion, I got the Fury blade, but I found myself using a pair of scissors to cut the sheets of material and the knife for cutting the more intricate cuts when the material was on the door; for things like holes for bolts, clips, etc. Worked out well. The Fury blade looks pretty sick but when I first picked it up it didn't scream "high quality" or "heavy duty", my first impression was "Wow, this thing is pretty lightweight, I hope it holds up." At the end of the day, it did what I needed it to do and with no issues at all. My goal was to use as many large, solid pieces as possible, but that didn't work out too well. Far too many ridges, angles, and curves for me to do so. Either that, or I just don't have the technique to do so. I'm thinking a combo of both. In any case, I was able to get the driver side door done with no major issues. It took me about 2-3 hrs to get it done, including a 30 minute lunch break, and about 30 minutes to clean/organize my garage/tools and to reinstall my subs and box which I had removed last weekend after a little technical issue. It felt like it took longer than it really did and i'm sure it should have been done faster but I was taking my sweet time since it was all new to me. The product was easy to work with, although cutting with scissors probably wasn't the best way to go even though it did prevent me from having to get up and go to my work bench every time I needed to cut a sheet. I think i'm going to have to devise a better way to locate screw holes and the like because this stuff is pretty thick so it makes locating the holes beneath a bit of a task if the holes are small. It was very pliable and conformed to the angles and curves of the panel with ease (I think setting it on the dash to get warm prior to using was a good idea). So this is what my first door came out like: I think it came out alright, could be better, but not bad for a noob. So I move on to the passenger side, and aside from the issue I had with the window switch as stated above, it went rather smooth. I got this one done in about an hour to hour and a half. I hadn't had any issues with the wiring getting adhesive on the window but I noticed this side also had duct tape on it which was loose a sloppy so I handled that before I started the deadening. Before: After: And this is how this door came out Once I was done and had removed all tools and what not from inside my car, I closed the door and heard a solid "thud", it put a smile on my face. It sounded far less hollow and more solid than before...the sound was so impressive that after cleaning up my mess and locking everything up, I watered my lawn and once I was done with that I went over to my car and opened and closed the doors again just to hear it. LOL. My car is a two door, but the doors are pretty damn big, but even still I had a sheet and a quarter left over! I had planned on running my speaker wire and installing my fronts today as well but my cousins had come up from the Bay Area and stopped by so we were shootin' the shit for a while and I pretty much lost my drive to go any further with it today. Once again, big ups to Ant for the promotion, the product is easy to work with and even though I haven't been able to confirm yet how much of a difference it made when playing music, the sound of my doors closing has me feeling very optimistic about it. The freebie folding knife looks cool as hell and came in handy during the install. So far, I give it two thumbs up, I'll report back once I get my speakers in and powered up.
  15. Pull off the tan side, not the shiny side If you're still having an issue, I'm going to assume it's when using a piece that's been cut and there's no overhang to grab, in that case just pull it, it may seem like the black stuff is coming with it but it'll give and the backing will come off.
  16. yeah, I was trippin' on how good he kept that thing under control, skillz!
  17. now I see what the problem is, you're pushing 12 speakers off of 4 channels. I think the better solution would be to buy enough amps to run all the speakers the way they should be run.
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