barney91

This is true, the S&W is a super easy to strip and clean weapon... And it looks much better because of the mag, the 10/22 mag makes the whole thing look wrong When I see it it reminds me of an AR with an AK mag

I have the 10/22 in an achangle kit with A2 style sights and to be honest I wish I would of gone with the S&W M&P 15-22 because the archangle kit looks and feels so cheap and its a pain to take it out of the kit to field strip it and clean it OP if you can get the S&W get the instead

Just watched the video and I'm surprised they sounded so clear so far away Keep up the good work

I designed a second box which seems better on paper its 11.75 cf after dispacement tuned to 30hz and second one which is 12.78cf tuned to 33hz Edit: this is the new box http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/129097-how-does-this-look-for-a-first-box/page__p__1815596__fromsearch__1#entry1815596

Is there any way you can help me out with the port because that's where I'm stuck I don't know what's the right size I don't want to make it to big then have the subs bottom out or to small and have them chocking

What do you mean it will be a tight fit? And there 15s

I plan on building a box for four sundown sa-15s sometime in the next 2 weeks its going in my yukon subs up port back The subs are going to be ran off two RF T1000.1bd The box measurements are 48W x 18H x 36D which puts me at 14.6cf that's only including the subs displacement because I don't know what kind of support I should use in the inside, which is one of the things I need help with Id like to tune the box to 33hz but I don't know what the measurements for the port should be, which is the other thing I need help with Any input is greatly appreciated

When I set mine I changed the voltage output to where I would have the least distortion with the knob at full tilt Edit: I remember what I did which was set the gains on the amp with the dd1 then read the output with a voltmeter then turned the epiceter knob fulltilt I changed the voltage output on the epicenter to get me as close to the first output the amp read with out the epicenter on Sorry if I don't make sciens I just woke up

Fixed And Sundown, Fi, DC Sound Lab, Ascendant Audio, DAD, Digital Designs, Robot Underground, Audioque, PSI(for repair) Robot underground? I've heard nothing but bad about them

What are you tuned to?

This guy right here I bump to them in my truck, I work out to them and listen to them when I'm playing MW3

Will do thanks for the help

Well before it started acting up it did I thought maybe it wasn't getting a good spark but it could be a clogged injector Tomorrow I'm going to take another look at everything and see what's up ill post what ever happends when I do the mfi swap because the kit inclueds new fuel pressure regulator and new injectors, real injectors not shitty poppets

Well what I don't get is why it only idles for 5 seconds then shuts off. It doesn't bogg out or anything as it shuts off its just turns off

I didn't check with the guage but I think it does because if I push on the vaule, fuel sprays out

Nope the scfi system doesn't have electrical plugs and everything inside the intake manifold so I have to take it apart which I plan to do because I think its the fuel pressure regulator which I plan on replacing I ordered the delphi fj10566 kit to swap my scfi system to a mfi style because the poppet style injectors have been know to clogg which I think is another part of the problem

I can't pull any injectors because the injectors are under the upper intake manifold. Also my yukon doesn't really have injectors it has those poppets because I have the scfi type fuel system not the mfi which really has injectors

Well if the mass was going bad wouldn't there be a code And couldn't a bad fuel pressure regulator cause the same problem?

Thanks for the reply guys Last tune up was august and I've scanned it and there's no codes so no check engine light And id do the fuel cleaner but it only runs for like 5 seconds and shuts off by its self so I don't think it would do much Also I did check the fuel presure and its on 60 as it starts once its on it stays at 55

I have a 99 yukon with 214,xxx miles just recently it started running bad.on Friday it was running bad so I stopped at a friends and after it wouldn't start, I noticed that my fuel gauge read past full. So I got towed to my house and when I got home it started right up but it wouldn't go pass 3000rpm even with me flooring it. When it would hit 3000rpm it would bogg out and drop to 2000rpm then right back to 3000rpm and then back to 2000rpm and so on, at the same time it would bogg out my fuel gauge would shoot to full then drop back to 1/4 tank So I thought I was having a bad fuel pump so first I swapped the fuel relay and the fuel filter and the problem was still their. All this was on friday, the next day it would only run for a few seconds and shut of so I went ahead and swaped the fuel pump with a delphi fuel pump Well today I finished everything and its still only running for a few seconds before it shuts off the only thing I can think of is the fuel pressure regulator What else could it be? Any help is greatly appreciated P.S. sorry for the long post just really despret for help and also I'm on mobile so sorry for any misspelled words

I bet thoes lows take your breath away sitting in the back seat haha

You can always go to mexico and buy a gun from the states lol

I guess ill have to hit him up thanks man

Hey cleansierra you seem to be up to date on the local shows Do you happend to know the next one that's coming up? I wouldn't mind getting metered

Do you happend to know what time its going to start